Stars of Bordeaux 2023 in-bottle tastings: 600 wine reviews

The Bordeaux in-bottle tastings are always one of the year's highlights, and revisiting the 2023 vintage has been hugely enjoyable – more than 600 wines tasted over two months.

This year, the numbers tell a clear story: 110 wines gained one point from their En Primeur scores, 66 climbed two points and 19 jumped three points. Only 25 wines were downgraded, while the rest held steady.

This shows just how much can evolve during ageing, with the 2023s by and large showing even better in bottle than they did from barrel, gaining extra harmony, polish, flesh and approachability.

It’s such a great vintage to buy for pleasure right now, or for sensible cellaring. The wines combine charm and finesse with a lively, juicy core. Tannins feel serious yet refined, the acidity vibrant, and the fruit pure and expressive.

The wines are, on the whole, approachable and full of joy. They don't demand decades of patience yet still offer real structure and balance for those who want to tuck bottles away for between 15 years or more.

The First Growths: Poised and precise on both banks

The five Médoc First Growths, plus Cheval Blanc, all performed superbly in bottle. Most retained or improved on their en-primeur promise.

Château Margaux (99 points) climbed one point from its 98 En Primeur score and feels even more alive in bottle: wild roses and redcurrants on the nose, the palate smooth, supple and alive with silky tannins and perfect tension.

Château Lafite Rothschild (99 points) also gained one point, offering an effortless and seamless profile with bright acidity alongside graphite and wet stone touches.

Château Latour (99 points) had a one point up-score and is vibrant and focussed with high-energy acidity and mineral grip.

Château Haut-Brion (99 points), also one point higher, is one of the wines of the vintage – a potential 100-point wine in the future. It's rich yet cuddly, full of flesh, juice and charm.

Château Mouton Rothschild (98 points) sees no change from its En Primeur score and remains deep and rich with a cool fruit aspect and tons of finesse.

Not a first growth, but Château Palmer jumped two points to 99 delivering another captivating and utterly irresistible wine – another potential 100-pointer.

On the Right Bank, both Château Cheval Blanc and Château L'Eglise Clinet received two extra points to reach 99. They are both potential 100-point wines in the future, and two of the best 2023s.

Cheval feels radiant in bottle with herbal, floral, blackcurrant and violet notes, pristine fruit and flawless integration, while L'Eglise Clinet is just magical, with such great structure and concentration.

Château Figeac climbed one point to 98, showing a shiny, bright, vibrant profile, while Petrus held its 98 points, offering softness, charm and subtle power.

Château Ausone climbed one point to 97 and is ripe and bouncy, with charming perfume and a wildly enjoyable aspect already.

Other Left Bank and Right Bank top scorers

It has been especially gratifying to see so many top scorers climb in bottle, underlining how time has added extra radiance, harmony and approachability to these wines.

I purposefully never look at my En Primeur scores when retasting wines in bottle to retain as much impartiality as possible.

Outside the First Growths, Vieux Château Certan jumped one point to 99, while several others gained one point to reach 98, including Château Pavie, Château Troplong Mondot, Château Angélus, Château Montrose and Château Coutet.

A host of excellent wines climbed one point to reach 97: Château Cos d’Estournel, Château Pavie Macquin, Clos du Clocher, Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Château Haut-Bailly, Château Rauzan-Ségla and Château Brane-Cantenac.

Trotanoy and Clos Fourtet climbed two points to reach 97.

On the white side, Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc (97 points) and Château Haut-Brion Blanc (97 points) both gained one point, showcasing the vintage’s outstanding vibrancy and precision in the dry whites.

Left Bank highlights also include Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (98 points) with delicate tannins and fruit purity.

Right Bank stars that retained 98 points include Château La Conseillante with amazing energy and focus, and Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse offering mouthwatering succulence with a classic yet also playful feel.

Second wines

In terms of second wines, which often are available for the fraction of the Grand Vin price but offer similar taste profiles and earlier drinking windows, these particularly stood out: Dame de Trottevielle (94 points), Dame de Montrose (93 points), Croix de Beauséjour (93 points), La Chapelle de Haut-Bages Libéral (93 points), Echo de Lynch-Bages (93 points) and Réserve de Comtesse (93 points).

Also notable are Petit-Figeac (94 points) and Alter Ego de Palmer (94 points) - though priced higher than most seconds.

Verso de Haut-Batailley (92 points) and Fiefs de Lagrange (91 points) also impressed.

Dry whites and sweet wines

Dry whites are fantastic this year. Sauvignon Blanc excelled, producing vibrant, aromatic wines with citrus and stone fruit, herbs and racy acidity that keep everything fresh and lively. Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc (97 points) is pure and pristine with tension and a cooling finish. Château Haut-Brion Blanc (97 points) and Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc (97 points) show weight, minerality and drive.

Sémillon blends add creamy texture without heaviness, creating whites of real precision and longevity.

Also very impressive were Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (96 points), Château Cos d'Estournel Blanc (95 points), Les Champs Libres (95 points) and Château Pape Clément Blanc (95 points), Château La Garde Blanc (95 points) and Château La Louvière Blanc (94 points) which deliver weight, minerality and drive alongside

Sweet wines are bold yet beautifully balanced. Sauternes and Barsac combine concentration with freshness and lift. Château Coutet (97 points) is electric with spice and verve.

I particularly loved Château Sigalas Rabaud (95 points) – it showed wonderful vibrancy, bright acidity and a beautifully poised balance of honeyed fruit, candied peel and floral lift that made it incredibly moreish and expressive.

Château Bastor-Lamontagne (95 points) is a top value pick and Château de Rayne Vigneau (95 points) also delivered impressive purity and elegance.

Many are ready now but will develop beautifully over the next 20 years or more.

Other value standouts: hidden gems from both banks

Alongside well-known reputable and easy-to-find bottles, it's always nice to see new names or hidden gems appear in the list of great quality and value.

The following are all worth seeking out:

Château Laroque (95 points; St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé) Fresh and vibrant; about £18-£22

Château Grand Village (94; Bordeaux) Juicy and approachable; £18-£20

Château La Patache (94, Pomerol) Bright and crunchy; £19

Château Les Cruzelles (94, Lalande-de-Pomerol) Structured yet charming; £20

Château Haut-Bages Monpélou (94, Pauillac) Classic graphite grip; £20-£25

La Tour Carnet (94, Haut-Médoc 4ème Cru Classé) Consistent quality; £28-£32

Château Le Chatelet (94, St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé) Pure and focused; £45

Château Monregard la Croix (93, Pomerol) Smooth and glossy; £48

Château Ormes de Pez (92, St-Estèphe) Compact and cool; £26

Château Siran (93, Margaux) Floral and elegant; £32

Domaine Simon Blanchard Guitard (93, Montagne St-Emilion) Bright and focused €27

Château de Candale (93, St-Emilion Grand Cru) Good freshness; £25

Château Plince (93, Pomerol) Supple and moreish; £24

Château de Beau-Site (93, St-Estèphe) Vibrant and focussed; £24

La Chenade (92, Lalande de Pomerol) Juicy and approachable; £15

Les Hauts de Smith (92, Pessac-Léognan) Vibrant and precise; £22

Château D’Agassac (91, Haut-Médoc) Reliable and well-made; £21

Clos Lunelles (92, Côtes de Castillon) Streamlined and focused; £22-£26

Château Puygueraud (91, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux) Lovely depth; £10-£17

Château Alcée (93, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux) Strong performer; £15

Château Clément Pichon (91, Haut-Médoc) Quietly confident; £15-£22

Château Charmail (91, Haut-Médoc) Full of personality; £15-£22

I have also written a separate article focusing on the Cru Bourgeois 2023s, which delivered some excellent value options in the vintage.

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