Steven Spurrier British Columbia wines
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Decanter's consultant editor visited dozens of vineyards and tasted hundreds of wines in six full days in British Columbia. Here are a few of the best that he picked out...

Steven Spurrier on British Columbia wines

For me, wine is all about the three Ps: the place, the people and the product. British Columbia wines tick all three boxes with exuberance, elegance and conviction.


Scroll down to see Steven Spurrier’s top wines


Warmer and more arid than Napa Valley, the Okanagan Valley gets nearly two hours more sunlight per day during the peak of the July-August growing season, with great temperature differences between day and night helping to retain freshness.

For my palate, the overall style of British Columbia wines is Old World rather than New World.

British Columbia white wines

Chardonnay is well represented, showing more richness than from the cooler Ontario vineyards around Niagara on Canada’s east coast, but not over-oaked.

Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc show well, with a similarity to Alsace; Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are recognisably varietal, often with added flair; but my long-term bet would be on Riesling, whose floral, lifted yet broad fruit and typical acidity go so well with the local fish dishes.

British Columbia red wines

Among the reds, Pinot Noir stood out for me, with its Burgundian profile, and the Syrah wines – correctly French in name and style – are attracting justified attention.

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are reliable, but Cabernet Franc shows more character, while Petit Verdot and Malbec are playing a strong role in the Bordeaux blends.

Meanwhile, a 2013 Gamay from Blue Mountain was the best I’ve tasted outside Beaujolais.

All the wineries are open to the public and many have restaurants, so, rather like Virginia, more than half the wines are sold direct, with markets in Canada and the US taking most of the rest.

Fewer than 12 estates export to the UK, so the wines below are well worth seeking out.

Steven Spurrier is Decanter’s consulting editor and chairman of the Decanter World Wine Awards. His trip to British Columbia was organised with enthusiastic precision by the British Columbia Wine Institute.

Steven’s top BC wines:


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Exciting Canadian wines to try

Le Vieux Pin, Ava, Okanagan Valley, Canada, 2014

My wines

90

A blend of 50% Viognier with Roussanne and Marsanne, created by Sévérine Pinte-Kosaka from France’s Languedoc. All white flowers and very Rhône-ish.

2014

Canada

Le Vieux PinOkanagan Valley

Tantalus, Old Vines Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada, 2012

My wines

90

Fine clarity of fruit on the nose and palate. Great typicity here, with a refreshing, limey, lifted finish.

2012

British ColumbiaCanada

TantalusOkanagan Valley

Le Vieux Pin, Cuvée Violette Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada, 2013

My wines

91

With just 2% Roussanne added, this shows the feminine side of Syrah, as opposed to the winery’s top cuvée, the masculine Equinox. This is elegant and site-specific with a finely grained texture.

2013

British ColumbiaCanada

Le Vieux PinOkanagan Valley

Meyer Family Vineyards, McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, Canada, 2012

My wines

91

Ripe depth, quite Burgundian, more Nuits than Beaune. Showing smoothness and energy, a handmade wine.

2012

Canada

Meyer Family VineyardsOkanagan Valley

Painted Rock, Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada, 2013

My wines

91

Richly spicy yet smooth on the palate, this has a silkiness of texture and holds great promise for the future.

2013

British ColumbiaCanada

Painted RockOkanagan Valley

La Stella, Fortissimo, Okanagan Valley, Canada, 2013

My wines

90

With 16% Sangiovese added to a Bordeaux blend, this shows lovely mid-palate fruit, Old World elegance and a grippy finish. Good for the cellar.

2013

Canada

La StellaOkanagan Valley

Tantalus, Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada, 2012

My wines

90

Damson and black cherry fruit from a cool year, showing natural vigour, good oak and fine vineyard expression. A fine future.

2012

British ColumbiaCanada

TantalusOkanagan Valley

Steven Spurrier
Decanter Magazine, Consultant Editor
Decanter’s consultant editor Steven Spurrier joined the wine trade in London in 1964 and later moved to Paris where he bought a wine shop in 1971, and then opened L’Academie du Vin, France’s first private wine school in 1973. Spurrier staged the historic 1976 blind tasting between wines from California and France, the Judgment of Paris, and in the 1980s he wrote several wine books and created the Christie’s Wine Course with then senior wine director Michael Broadbent, a veteran Decanter columnist. In 1988 Spurrier returned to the UK to focus on writing and consultancy, with his clients including Singapore Airlines. He has won several awards, including Le Personalité de l’Année (oenology) 1988 for services to French wine and the Maestro Award in honour of California wine legend André Tchelistcheff (2011) and is president of the Circle of Wine Writers as well as founding the Wine Society of India. He also produced his own wine, Bride Valley Brut, from his vines in Dorset.