Steven Spurrier’s top British Columbia wines
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Decanter's consultant editor visited dozens of vineyards and tasted hundreds of wines in six full days in British Columbia. Here are a few of the best that he picked out...
Steven Spurrier on British Columbia wines
While some European and even New World countries might have a much longer history and grander wines, I have seldom encountered such beautiful scenery and such passionate viticulturists and winemakers, while tasting wines of such encouraging quality.
For me, wine is all about the three Ps: the place, the people and the product. British Columbia wines tick all three boxes with exuberance, elegance and conviction.
Scroll down to see Steven Spurrier’s top wines
Warmer and more arid than Napa Valley, the Okanagan Valley gets nearly two hours more sunlight per day during the peak of the July-August growing season, with great temperature differences between day and night helping to retain freshness.
For my palate, the overall style of British Columbia wines is Old World rather than New World.
British Columbia white wines
Chardonnay is well represented, showing more richness than from the cooler Ontario vineyards around Niagara on Canada’s east coast, but not over-oaked.
Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc show well, with a similarity to Alsace; Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are recognisably varietal, often with added flair; but my long-term bet would be on Riesling, whose floral, lifted yet broad fruit and typical acidity go so well with the local fish dishes.
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British Columbia red wines
Among the reds, Pinot Noir stood out for me, with its Burgundian profile, and the Syrah wines – correctly French in name and style – are attracting justified attention.
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are reliable, but Cabernet Franc shows more character, while Petit Verdot and Malbec are playing a strong role in the Bordeaux blends.
Meanwhile, a 2013 Gamay from Blue Mountain was the best I’ve tasted outside Beaujolais.
All the wineries are open to the public and many have restaurants, so, rather like Virginia, more than half the wines are sold direct, with markets in Canada and the US taking most of the rest.
Fewer than 12 estates export to the UK, so the wines below are well worth seeking out.
Steven Spurrier is Decanter’s consulting editor and chairman of the Decanter World Wine Awards. His trip to British Columbia was organised with enthusiastic precision by the British Columbia Wine Institute.
Steven’s top BC wines:
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Exciting Canadian wines to try
Le Vieux Pin, Ava, Okanagan Valley, Canada, 2014

90
A blend of 50% Viognier with Roussanne and Marsanne, created by Sévérine Pinte-Kosaka from France’s Languedoc. All white flowers and very Rhône-ish.
2014
Canada
Le Vieux PinOkanagan Valley
Tantalus, Old Vines Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada, 2012

90
Fine clarity of fruit on the nose and palate. Great typicity here, with a refreshing, limey, lifted finish.
2012
British ColumbiaCanada
TantalusOkanagan Valley
Le Vieux Pin, Cuvée Violette Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada, 2013

91
With just 2% Roussanne added, this shows the feminine side of Syrah, as opposed to the winery’s top cuvée, the masculine Equinox. This is elegant and site-specific with a finely grained texture.
2013
British ColumbiaCanada
Le Vieux PinOkanagan Valley
Meyer Family Vineyards, McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, Canada, 2012

91
Ripe depth, quite Burgundian, more Nuits than Beaune. Showing smoothness and energy, a handmade wine.
2012
Canada
Meyer Family VineyardsOkanagan Valley
Painted Rock, Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada, 2013

91
Richly spicy yet smooth on the palate, this has a silkiness of texture and holds great promise for the future.
2013
British ColumbiaCanada
Painted RockOkanagan Valley
La Stella, Fortissimo, Okanagan Valley, Canada, 2013

90
With 16% Sangiovese added to a Bordeaux blend, this shows lovely mid-palate fruit, Old World elegance and a grippy finish. Good for the cellar.
2013
Canada
La StellaOkanagan Valley
Tantalus, Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada, 2012

90
Damson and black cherry fruit from a cool year, showing natural vigour, good oak and fine vineyard expression. A fine future.
2012
British ColumbiaCanada
TantalusOkanagan Valley
