Chaffey Bros Wine Co, Salvis Gratia Old Vine Semillon, Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2024

There's something a bit wine and unfettered about this old-vine Semillon, which comes from a vineyard planted in 1983 containing now-rare plantings of the Madeira Semillon clone. These old vines produce very low yields of grapes, which are hand harvested before being whole-bunch pressed and fermented with natural wild yeasts. Around a quarter of the wine is fermented and aged in oak puncheons, with time on lees adding creamy, rich texture, and the wine is bottled unfined. This isn't a purchase for those who like something fruit-driven and easy to pin down. But it's a great choice for wine adventurers – firm and oak framed, smoky, savoury and waxy, with old-vine complexity. Will improve with age, too. Available from late November, only 300 12-bottle cases were produced. Mix six price: £18