Camping in the Rhône: Our ultimate guide for wine lovers

Why the Rhône is ideal for camping

One of my earliest memories is of my dad putting up a tent on holiday in France. I can’t remember where exactly, but I remember the warm sand underfoot and the resinous smell of pine trees.

I don’t think I was much help. Now it’s my turn to hammer in the tent pegs while the kids leaf through comics. Camping in France is a rite of passage for the English: it’s the closest sunny place to our rainy island.

The Rhône is the perfect region to pitch up. It’s reliably warm and dry from April to August, there’s a wealth of fabulous produce to enjoy, and there are endless affordable wines of all kinds to discover.

If you’re planning a trip, here are some ideas of where to base yourself, places to stay and some practical tips for wine lovers.

What kind of camping do you want?

Camping, glamping and yurts

If you own a mobile home, or a tent and all the gear, then you can just book a pitch and turn up.

If not, don’t let that stop you – there are many other options depending on your budget and the kind of experience you prefer.

Many campsites have permanent and semi-permanent structures for hire, including wood-and-canvas constructions, yurts and cottages. Some even offer treehouses or repurposed wine barrels to sleep in.

Some people relish the idea of getting back to basics, with minimal creature comforts. But if you don’t like the idea of shared shower blocks, there are plenty of places with private bathrooms and kitchen areas.

Either way, you’ll get to spend your days surrounded by nature. Whether you’re six years old or 60, there’s something magical about falling asleep under the stars listening to the hooting of owls.

There’s also the social element to enjoy – campsites have a friendly, festive atmosphere that you’ll never find in a hotel.

The only downside about the natural setting is the mosquitos – just pack some insect repellent.

Where to stay: Area guide to camping in the Rhône

No car? You still have options

If you don’t have access to a car, your choices are restricted, but you still have options.

Take the TGV (fast train) to Avignon, then either a local train, bus or taxi to nearby campsites such as Camping Fontisson in Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne or Camping de Coucourelle in Pernes-les-Fontaines.

But the Rhône valley is big enough to offer all kinds of landscape: gorges, mountains, coastal sites... if you have access to your own transport, then all of these open up. Stay near towns and villages or choose more secluded spots – vineyards and wineries are never far away.

Northern Vaucluse

If wine is your priority, it makes sense to be in the middle of the action on the east side of the main river. Position yourself somewhere near Vacqueyras or Châteauneuf-du-Pape and all of the major crus of the southern Rhône are just a short drive away.

The only difficulty will be deciding which wineries to visit! A few to consider include:

• Domaine de Beaurenard (Châteauneuf)
• Domaine de la Solitude (Châteauneuf)
• Domaine du Grapillon d’Or (Gigondas)
• Domaine des Bosquets (Gigondas)
• Domaine la Monardière (Vacqueyras)
• Domaine Montirius (Vacqueyras)

You’ll be surrounded by wonderful places to eat, such as L’Oustalet in Gigondas, Coteaux et Fourchettes near Cairanne and Le Café de France in Caderousse.

Another benefit is the proximity to Avignon, with its wealth of wine-focused restaurants (Le 46, Pollen), wine shops (Cave Liquid, Le Vin Devant Soi) and cultural attractions.

Campsites to consider are Les Rives de L’Aygues, an environmentally friendly site with access to the gentle Aygues river.

I’m also told that Domaine des Favards, an organic wine estate with its own campsite near Violès, is worth a visit.

Southern Ardèche

If you want to fill your days with outdoor action, the southern Ardèche is the place to be.

Many of the companies that offer activities such as caving, canyoning, canoeing and climbing are situated close to Vallon Pont d’Arc, so it makes sense to base yourself nearby.

But not too close; the village can be extremely busy in summer and there’s not much by way of wine fun there. For that, you can visit Mas de Libian, Domaine Saladin and Domaine Gallety.

There are two branches of Huttopia nearby: Sud Ardèche and Le Moulin.

This company has 152 campsites worldwide, including five in the Rhône valley. They’re notable for their cleanliness, friendly staff and packed programme of activities for kids and adults alike.

There are many other campsites to consider; if you want something smaller, wilder and more remote, try Camping Mille Etoiles.

The Luberon

In the southeast of the Rhône valley, bordering the winelands of Provence, is the Luberon – one of the most beautiful and unspoiled parts of France.

There are endless ancient villages to explore (don’t miss Bonnieux, Gordes and Lourmarin) and some equally picturesque wineries to visit, such as Château la Canorgue, Château la Verrerie and filmmaker Ridley Scott’s Mas des Infermières.

If you like music festivals, then make sure to visit during the first weekend in June. Lourmarin, just north of the D973Y road, is home to Festival Yeah!, co-founded by Laurent Garnier, one of France’s greatest DJs and music producers.

Camping Les Hautes Prairies, just down the road, is on my list to try in 2027. If you’re looking for a quieter day out, take a wander around the colourful ochre quarries in the village of Roussillon, north of the D900.

The northern Rhône

The northern Rhône isn’t as geared up for visitors, but this can be a blessing – the southern Rhône is a more established tourist destination, so the north is less busy.

It’s also not as hot during summer, which can be a good thing if you’re camping. And if you’re a fan of Syrah, you’ll be in paradise.

For something a bit different, spend the night at the Safari Peaugres in the heart of St-Joseph. It’s an 80ha site with about 1,300 animals from more than 120 species.

There are also 20 treehouses for hire above the wolf and bear enclosures from which you can watch them roam below. Don’t worry, the structures are solidly built!

Another option is to base yourself near Tournon-sur-Rhône, which has several good restaurants, an excellent Saturday market and a footbridge to Hermitage.

All of the northern crus are within easy reach (though Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie are a 45-minute drive). Camping Ferme de Simondon in Plats (restaurant-gite-camping-simondon.fr), a 20-minute drive southwest from Tournon-sur- Rhône, has a lazy, pastoral vibe and stunning views over the valley.

It’s also just 15 minutes from Mauves, home to Rhône royalty Domaine Coursodon, Domaine Bernard Gripa and Domaine Marsanne.

Other areas to explore

Out to the east of the region, beyond Valréas and Vinsobres, the Baronnies Provençales regional nature park is great for walking and exploring local villages at a relaxed pace.

A little south of this extensive, 1,800km2 area, the slopes of Mont Ventoux (well known to cycling fans as the demanding mountain climb stage of the Tour de France) have countless craggy stone villages to explore, such as Caromb, Méthamis, Venasque and Le Barroux.

North of the Baronnies, the Diois region has a distinctly alpine feel compared to the rest of the Rhône valley; the cooler weather here is a draw for many.

By contrast, for proximity to the sea, consider the Camargue – where the Rhône runs into the Mediterranean – with its famous wild horses and pink flamingos, and some great Costières de Nîmes wineries.

For ideas of where to stay and visit in each, check out the tourism section of Vins Vignobles de la Vallée du Rhône.

Practical camping tips for wine lovers

Accommodation

When booking your accommodation, it’s worth asking whether sheets and towels are provided, as this can vary.

You might also want to enquire about options for bike hire – it’s the most wine-friendly way to explore your surroundings.

Cooking

Having the option to cook for yourself is a big advantage. On arrival, ask which nearby villages have the best food markets and on which days they’re held.

Some sites have shared barbecue pits, and many larger cabins will have their own gas-fired grills. Find out what’s available. Take a sharp knife (or a knife sharpener) with you as those provided are often quite blunt.

Wine glasses

If you don’t want to drink out of thick tumblers, take your own glasses. Stemless ones, such as Riedel’s The O Wine Tumbler collection (from £32.50 per pair, Riedel), are a practical choice.

A chillable bottle cooler sleeve is invaluable for picnics. And don’t forget a corkscrew.

Where to store your wine

When it comes to camping, there is one problem for wine lovers. No doubt you’ll want to buy some wine on your travels, but where do you store it?

Leaving it to slowly cook in the tent or car is unwise. There are two options: either you book accommodation with air conditioning and leave it running all day – not exactly environmentally friendly – or you hire a fridge, a service offered in many campsites.

It will be small, so if you can, hire two: one for food, one for wine.

Camping with children

Finally, a word about children. Campsites are brilliant places for kids, offering them an element of freedom and autonomy to explore and make friends – which has the added benefit of offering a degree of rest and relaxation for parents.

But they can find winery visits boring, and working cellars can be potentially hazardous. So keep them close – for the winemaker’s peace of mind as much as yours – pack games, books and entertainment for the little ones and offer gratuitous bribes for good behaviour.

Matt Walls is a Contributing Editor to Decanter and the DWWA Regional Chair for Rhône. His latest book, The Smart Traveller’s Wine Guide to the Rhône Valley, is available from Académie du Vin Library (£12.99)

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