Wines for the week: February 2023
February’s selection of whites, rosés, reds and fortifieds under £20 chosen by the Decanter team.
The Decanter in-house tasting team spends an awful lot of time out and about at tastings, finding new and exciting wines, or new vintages of existing wines, for everyday drinking. Here, we bring you 25 top picks that are all ready to drink now, available in the UK and priced at £20 or less.
This month’s highlights
Must-try sparkling: Domaine J Laurens, Les Graimenous Brut, Crémant de Limoux, Languedoc, France 2020
High street choice: Tesco, Finest Viña del Cura Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2017
Must-try sweet: Rupel, Melnik 55, Struma Valley, South Western Region, Bulgaria 2017
As a companion selection to our 25 wines under £20, the Decanter team has selected seven standout bottles that are sure to impress, all available in the UK and priced between £20 and £50.
Wines for the week: February 2023
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Domaine J Laurens, Les Graimenous, Crémant de Limoux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020
93
With its fresh lemons and delicate florals on the nose, this great-value crémant is both refreshing and pretty, with a pithy lemon sherbet vein under ripe yellow apple and pear flavours. Bright, large bubbles activate the attack and carry a chalky, mineral texture onto the finish. Hand-harvested Chardonnay and Chenin take centre stage, while Pinot Noir and the local Mauzac lend back-up vocals.
2020
Domaine J LaurensCrémant de Limoux
Menestrello, Prosecco, Veneto, Italy
88
A salivating, food-friendly Prosecco features salted citrus on the nose. Crunchy green fruits and a touch of ripe red apple peel on the palate. The 14.5g/l of sugar is refreshed by a solid line of acidity (5.8g/l), leading to a clean finish. This is a blend of 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Bianco.
Menestrello
Château la Canorgue, Luberon, Rhône, France, 2021
92
The vines for this blend of Rhône white grapes are grown at altitude on the Montagne du Luberon. 2021 was a cooler vintage, too, so both factors lend this a leafy freshness and crisp acidity. Unoaked, it spends four months on fine lees before bottling. Juicy stone fruit, and a sprinkling of herbs. Delightful.
2021
Château la CanorgueLuberon
Kellerei Kurtatsch, Caliz Chardonnay, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2021
92
Such a crystalline Chardonnay, with transparent flavours of lemon peel, yellow apple and white peach. A true alpine quality to its purity and freshness, with a deep minerality, not unlike a great Chablis. Precise yet round, it is elegant and poised but also so approachable and altogether enjoyable.
2021
Kellerei KurtatschAlto Adige/Südtirol
Royal Tokaji, Single-Vineyard Nyulászó Furmint, Tokaj, Hungary, 2018
92
Very well crafted dry Furmint, with Burgundian poise but plenty of varietal character. The deep citrus notes are cut through by hay, thyme and roasted almonds. On the palate, broad flavours of lemon curd, yellow apple and quince are lined by cedar and hazelnut. The assertive acidity drives it to the long finish.
2018
Royal Tokaji
Château Bouscassé, Les Jardins Philosophiques, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec, Southwest France, France, 2016
90
From one of the properties of Madiran titan Alain Brumont comes this showcase for the Petit Courbu grape. Deep sunshine yellow in the glass, the exotic aromas spill over, encompassing rich honey, mango, ripe apricot, fresh orange and candied peel. It’s enticing, full-bodied and fat, with just enough lift.
2016
Château BouscasséPacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec
Domaine Cordaillat, Tradition, Reuilly, Loire, France, 2020
90
Don’t overlook Reuilly, located southwest of Sancerre in the Loire valley, as a source of delicate, fruit-forward Sauvignon Blanc. This one has light blossom aromas, some peach and green apple, and finishes tense and taut. Pretty and easy.
2020
Domaine CordaillatReuilly
Roodekrantz, 1983 Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa, 2020
90
Old bush vines give this unoaked Chenin great concentration and intensity of green apple crunch, citrus brightness and riper notes of juicy peach. There's a mineral vein running through the midweight palate which has a lovely pithy quality. Would be delicious with crispy roast pork.
2020
Roodekrantz
The Ned, Pinot Grigio, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2022
90
This value-for-money Pinot Grigio represents a style between lighter and crisper Italian versions and fuller, richer Pinot Gris. Intense and vibrant, its salmon pink hue and fresh aromas of melon and pear are joined in the mouth by pithy grapefruit, white peach and some herbal notes.
2022
The Ned
Viticoltori De Conciliis, Donnaluna Fiano, Campania, Italy, 2021
90
This organically farmed Fiano from a small family-owned winery combines waxy, floral and slightly peachy aromas and flavours with good intensity, and plenty of freshness accentuated by a long, steely, slightly saline finish. Try with shellfish.
2021
Viticoltori De Conciliis
Kooliburra, Specially Selected Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia, 2021
89
Blended with 8% Semillon and 1% Chardonnay that adds nice weight, texture and savoury length, this new listing is the pick of Aldi's many, many Sauvignon Blancs under £10. Inviting herbal tones join refreshing lemon-lime and tropical flavours that would pair nicely with spicy fish tacos.
2021
KooliburraMargaret River
Sainsbury's, Taste the Difference Californian Chardonnay, Central Coast, California, USA, 2020
89
Made by Chronic Cellars, this good value Californian white has plenty of attitude. Mostly Chardonnay (88.5%) aged in stainless steel; Viognier, Albariño, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul add complexity and texture, with part-ageing in new and used French oak. The result is a fresh citrus and tropical wine, with notes of pineapple, banana, peach and pear balanced by crisp acidity. Pair it with grilled fish.
2020
Sainsbury'sCentral Coast
Moschópolis, 8 Xinomavro-Syrah Rosé, Macedonia, Greece, 2019
92
Making the most of the savoury appeal of both Xinomavro and Syrah, this rosé offers a textural mouthful of peach, Pink Lady apple, rose jam and pomegranate. The fleshy fruit is offset by a lively acidity and a balsamic quality, with mint, basil and sage lining the long finish. One for rich food.
2019
Moschópolis
Focal Point, Cinsault, Western Cape, South Africa, 2019
94
From highly experienced winemaker Arco Laarman, this Cinsault is so drinkable that a 75cl bottle won't last long enough. Lifted, airy, enticing aromas of cooked strawberries, vanilla, orange, clove and cumin spice. It has a certain Pinot-like character, and it's tangy and delicious. What an absolute cracker. Member exclusive.
2019
Focal Point
Bodegas Verum, Ulterior Parcela #17 Graciano, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain, 2017
91
New to Booths, a bigger, riper, spicier follow up to the 2016, 100% aged in clay amphorae which accentuates the purity and intensity of the silky black cherry-berry fruit. It's pretty, with musky potpourri-like florals, but quite big boned too, with a hint of wildness about it.
2017
Bodegas Verum
Aldi, Specially Selected, Chassaux et Fils, Pézenas, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2019
91
Heavy weight aside, this is a lovely bottle – both inside and out – that would be welcome gift or to grace the dinner table. A Shiraz-led blend, it exudes dark fruited power with wafts of garrigue and black pepper. Brisk acidity and firm tannins will see it age well too.
2019
AldiPézenas
Haras de Pirque, Hussonet Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2018
91
Italy's Antinori family oversee the winemaking at Haras de Pirquque, which is also known for its stable of racing horses. This weekday Cabernet is named after a successful Chilean stallion and is certainly in the running with its bright black fruit and good varietal typicity. Classic hints of mint and chocolate combine with a touch of earthiness and soft juicy tannins on the palate, with well-judged spice from 12 months in French oak. Good value.
2018
Haras de Pirque
Dona Matilde, Tinto, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2018
90
This field blend of classic Port grapes spends some time in oak, but it’s well integrated, lending a cedary warmth to the core of dark fruit and mineral freshness. Dark plum and blackberry, pure and clear, with juicy tannins and a hint of spice.
2018
Dona Matilde
Lidl, Winemaker's Selection Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia, Australia, 2021
90
Coonawarra in South Australia has a reputation for producing great Cabernet Sauvignon, and is the source for this red in Lidl's Winemaker's Selection range. A solid and reliable choice, it offers an attractive core of ripe cassis fruit, with notes of violet. Soft and easy, there's good value on offer here for the price.
2021
Lidl
M Chapoutier, Mathilde Chapoutier Selection, Duché d’Uzès, Rhône, France, 2020
90
A highly drinkable Grenache-Syrah blend that’s deep in colour and not short on flavour. An impression of really ripe black and red fruit is tempered by spice and liquorice, with a dusting of cocoa powder over fresh blueberry and blackberry characters.
2020
M ChapoutierDuché d’Uzès
Tesco, Finest Viña del Cura, Rioja Reserva, Rioja, Spain, 2017
90
Produced for the Finest range by Baron de Ley, this Reserva level wine has spent 18 months in American oak, followed by two years in bottle. Rioja is one of those categories where you can find a good level of evolution and ready-to-enjoy maturity without paying a sky-high premium for it. It wasn't the best vintage in the region, but this 2017 has a mellow, traditional-style Rioja character, with sweet and juicy strawberry fruit flavours and a lick of vanilla cream from the American oak. Very drinkable if that's how you like your Rioja.
2017
TescoRioja Reserva
Johann Wolf, Pinot Noir, Pfalz, Germany, 2020
89
<p>Approachable and charming Pinot Noir from Pfalz, partially aged in oak. Well-defined flavours of strawberry, crushed roses, plum and red apple peel. Very elegant and bright if lacking a bit of depth. Lingering spicy notes of black and white pepper.</p>
2020
Johann Wolf
Verga, 1895 La Storia, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2018
89
With its red and black fruit character plus spices and tannic grip leading to a long, fresh finish, this Barolo represents good value for those looking for a glimpse of the Nebbiolo grape’s famed fragrance and depth.
2018
VergaBarolo
Monticelli, Rosso Piceno, Le Marche, Italy, 2019
88
A blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese, this organic Rosse Piceno from Marche features cedar-scented red berries and red cherries on the nose with a touch of oaky smoke. Good concentration of spiced red fruits with vanilla seasoning on the palate, leading to sweet prune on the finish. A quaffable companion to red meat dishes.
2019
Monticelli
Rupel Winery, Melnik 55, South Western Region - Struma River Valley, Bulgaria, 2017
92
Dried roses, dark plum, black cherry, figs and prune on the nose with a hint of roasted coffee and dried herbs. Richly sweet, juicy dark fruits on the palate with chocolate and Christmas spices, making the 14.5% alcohol almost undetectable. Ripe muscular tannins provide structure, with decent acidity on the back palate to refresh. A wine to savour by the fireplace.
2017
Rupel Winery
