Wines for the week: March 2023

A bone-dry, focused, almost steely Col Fondo, with all the fleshiness and texture that are trademarks of the style – and of Case Paolin. Flavours of white grapefruit, lemon zest, crunchy pear and crystallised ginger make for a mouthfilling glass. Crunchy acid and a floral lining balance the weight. Yum.

A lightly steely, delicate nose leads onto a frothy, foamy palate which balances ripe yellow apple and nutty tones with an intriguing waxy note. The finish is tangy in taste but soft in texture. A fairly simple but individual fizz that ticks the mid-week sparkler box. The grapes, of which 90% are the region's flagship Mauzac, were harvested by hand, and the wine has had at least 24 months on lees - considerably more than the designated nine month minimum. Winemaker Françoise Antech-Gazeau, who plays an active role in the region's both social and winemaking communities, has been joined by her son Baptiste, who now represents the seventh generation to make wine at this large, well-known but good quality fizz producer in Limoux.

Mellow orchard fruit, honeyed lemon and acacia aromas provide a seductive intro to this Viognier, from a selection of small plots in the hills near the village of Cessenon, in the St-Chinian growing area. Accomplished, even a little showy, the fermentation and maturation in French oak has given vanilla and spice flavours, and there’s good breadth on the palate; a flowing torrent of golden fruit with the call of the Languedoc sunshine.

There’s a robust elegance to this wine, poised but with a certain rustic edge. The saline zestiness of preserved lemon is topped by delicate pear peel and orange rind. Nuances of fresh almond and cashew add body, creaminess and complexity. Enveloping, characterful and simply delicious.

A powerful and complex Bordeaux white made by blending Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc half-and-half. Flinty asparagus, gooseberry and nectarine on the nose, with magnificent smokiness on a savoury palate of crunchy green fruits and mushy peas. White spices and vanilla notes towards the finish, thanks to 7 months of ageing in oak. Deliciously long.

Château Julia doesn't sound very Greek, but this is textbook Assyrtiko. It's fairly understated on the nose at present, but has brisk grapefruit juiciness, with some warm lemon peel and firm peach, a mineral streak and salinity. There's weight and structure behind the fruit, and a refreshing sapidity. Very classy.

Such an intriguing, delicious expression of Muscat in which the floral aspects, rather than dominating, add gentle nuances to the lemon, pear and yellow apple fruit. There's a delicious savouriness imparted by touches of garrigue, hay and preserved lemon. Very good drive, assertive acid and a medium zesty finish. Very accomplished winemaking here.

A blend of rare Maturana Blanca and Tempranillo Blanco, planted at 450m in northern Rioja. Fermented in concrete; light oak ageing adds texture to a full-bodied palate. Layers of ripe honeyed citrus, preserved lemon, grapefruit, nuts and herbs underpinned by vibrant acidity with a brisk saline finish. An assured debut. Vegan.

Egri Csillag, or ‘Star of Eger’, is the white counterpart to the region's renowned 'Bull's Blood' blend. This organic edition consists of Furmint, Hárslevelű and Riesling. A golden hue to the pale lemon colour, it has a pure, ripe nose of yellow peach, mango and blood orange. High acidity on the attack led to a saline, textured undertone of citrus zest, more stone fruits, and confected quince on the back palate. Warming spices on the long finish of honeydew melon, hinting at the 14.5% alcohol.

This delicious white is a superb food-friendly pick, made by two sisters now in their 70s. Comforting aromas of stone fruits, lanolin and sweet spices combine with a waxy, subtly textured, intense and creamy palate full of grilled pineapple and citrus zest then a tight and saline finish with bright acidity.

<p>A South African Chardonnay, produced by Trizanne Signature Wines of the Coastal Region, which has been aged on lees for 3-6 months without any use of oak. It has a savoury, spiced nose of pineapple and creamy egg tart. Melon and citrus on the palate, textured with buttery peach, balanced by mineral acidity (5.71g/l). More honeyed yellow fruits and grapefruit zest towards the long finish. Excellent value.</p>

Based in Hunter Valley, Australia, Tyrrell's produces one of the world's most famous (and delicious) Semillons, Vat 1. This more entry-level wine showcases the typical character of young Semillon, with lime flower perfume on the nose, bracing acidity and a depth of juicy lime citrus fruit on the palate. It's very enjoyable now – try it with sushi – but I'd urge you to buy a bottle or two to lay down. Leave it for a few years and it will start to develop nuttier, toastier characteristics, despite spending no time in oak during vinification. On sale from end October 2022.

<p>The M&amp;S Found range is a shining light in the supermarket's lineup, and this Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) from the Pfalz region is delightfully fresh and saline, with juicy peach flavours giving roundness to the dry and bright palate. Enjoy with chicken caesar salad or a selection of soft cheeses</p>

Joining a Grillo and Verdicchio, this is another new Italian white on Aldi's shelves, all of which offer enjoyable drinking under £7. This is light and breezy, with lifted blossom notes and racy flavours of tart plums and green apples. Give this a try instead of Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc.