Wines for the week: May 2023
May’s selection of whites, rosés, reds and fortifieds at £20 or less, chosen by the Decanter team.
The Decanter in-house tasting team spends an awful lot of time out and about at tastings, finding new and exciting wines, or new vintages of existing wines, for everyday drinking. On these pages we bring you 25 top picks that are all ready to drink now, available in the UK and priced at £20 or less.
This month’s highlights
Must-try red: Raats, Dolomite Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2020
High street choice: Balla Géza, Kadarka, Transylvania, Romania 2020
As a companion selection to our 25 wines under £20, the Decanter team has selected seven standout bottles that are sure to impress, all available in the UK and priced between £20 and £50.
Wines for the week: May 2023
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Domaine Langlois-Château, Brut, Crémant de Loire, Loire, France
91
Lovely freshness offset by rich orchard fruit and gentle nuttiness in this enjoyable fizz that delivers a lot for its price tag. The blend is dominated by Chenin Blanc (10% of which from reserve wines) and the variety’s trademark woolly creaminess gives weight to the lifted linden, grapefruit and peach aromas. Textural and food-friendly.
Domaine Langlois-ChâteauCrémant de Loire
Craggy Range, Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2022
92
Great intensity and richness of punchy lime juice and passion fruit squeezed over ripe papaya. Part wild yeast and barrel fermentation followed by three months in barrel has delivered wonderful texture, weight and creaminess. Elegant and layered with bracing acidity and a lingering sea breeze freshness.
2022
Craggy RangeMartinborough
Altano, Reserva Branco, Douro, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2019
91
A well-crafted blend of Viosinho, Gouveio, Rabigato and other white varieties from a Symington-owned vineyard in Provesende. Fermented in oak and left on the lees until bottling, the subtle creaminess and spicy seam add complexity to the lychee, white peach and pear fruit. Pleasant crunchy bite with a vibrant acid lift. Vegan.
2019
AltanoDouro
Cantina di Gambellara, Monopolio Pinot Grigio, delle Venezie, Veneto, Italy, 2022
91
This cooperative, founded in 1947, is today guided by consultant winemaker, Matt Thompson. The grapes for this wine are from calcareous and volcanic soils. Focused and intense, it has a super–fragrant character with white peach accompanied by honeyed, floral and waxy notes.
2022
Cantina di Gambellaradelle Venezie
Füleky, Fülöp Dry, Tokaj, Hungary, 2019
91
The Fülöp is a blend of Furmint, Hárslevelű and a dash of Sárgamuskotály (Muscat à Petits Grains). Mineral, minty notes lead to mango and quince on the nose. Aged for 14 months in bottle, it features green tea freshness on the textured palate with more yellow fruits towards a long finish.
2019
Füleky
Laurent Miquel, Solas Albariño, Southwest France, France, 2021
91
Fleshy minerality, subtle saltiness and clear flavours of white grapefruit, pear and preserved lemon deliver an unpretentious yet expressive Albariño, without trying to emulate its Iberian benchmark counterparts. Floral touches and exotic fruit add intrigue. Pure, juicy with a vibrant zesty finish. One for seafood and creamy pasta.
2021
Laurent Miquel
Bourcier-Martinot, Mâconnais, St-Véran, Burgundy, France, 2019
90
So closed are the pearly gates of Burgundy to many of us that it’s often more appealing to look for alternatives for a fraction of the price. That being said, £20 can still buy you an enjoyable wine. Take this St-Véran – not as concentrated as nearby Pouilly-Fuissé, but still a rich, tasty wine.
2019
Bourcier-MartinotMâconnais
Gunderloch, Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2020
90
A charming, easygoing aperitif from the red slate soils of Rheinhessen. White blossom and peach with a flinty, mineral edge on the nose. Ripe peach and lime zest on the palate with a honeyed undertone. The zingy acid provides freshness 'til the finish.
2020
Gunderloch
Larry Cherubino, Apostrophe Stone's Throw, Great Southern, Western Australia, Australia, 2021
90
The blend for this juicy white changes from year to year. For 2021 Larry Cherubino used 65% Riesling and 15% Sauvignon Gris – the name Stone’s Throw refers to the short distance between the vineyards in the Great Southern region where the fruit is sourced. Classic Riesling notes – petrolly and lemony – plus a fresh grassiness and zesty lime. Lipsmacking acidity: bright, fresh and zesty – this is a wake-up call for your palate.
2021
Larry CherubinoGreat Southern
Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards, Flora, Nova Scotia, Canada, 2021
89
If you've not had a wine from Nova Scotia before, let alone one based on L'Acadie Blanc, try this. Think soft Pinot Blanc crossed with crisp off-dry Riesling and that's what you get here: fresh acidity cutting through a round palate of pear blossom, melon and lemon sherbet.
2021
Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards
Principe Pallavicini, Malvasia Puntinata, Roma, Lazio, Italy, 2021
89
Form a local variety, Malvasia Puntinata, also known as Malvasia del Lazio, this wine features sweetly ripe yellow fruits. It's exotic but well balanced by a saline, mineral tang and some pithy citrus fruit. Lacks some concentration, but is absolutely delicious!
2021
Principe PallaviciniRoma
Chaffey Bros Wine Co, Lux Venit Rosé, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2022
91
The best parcels of Grenache and Mourvèdre from the Heinrich vineyard in the Lyndoch foothills produce this classy dry rosé, which sees a little barrel age for extra spice, texture and generosity. Redcurrant tartness joins ripe strawberry and juicy nectarine all finished with a dollop of cream that lingers long. Vegan.
2022
Chaffey Bros Wine CoBarossa Valley
Echeverria, Cabernet Franc Rosé, Maule Valley, Chile, 2022
90
From sustainably grown Cabernet Franc planted on granite soils and cooled by coastal breezes. Exuberantly fruity aromas of ripe peach and strawberry. Lovely depth of vibrant strawberry and red cherry fruit on the palate, balanced by zippy acidity that persists through to a crisp, mouthwatering finish. Super freshness and purity of fruit – and great value for money.
2022
Echeverria
Barone Ricasoli, Brolio, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, 2020
92
With fruit sourced from vineyards on all five of Brolio’s key soil types, this Chianti Classico is defined by balance and round complexity. Deep cherry, plum and sloe flavours are supported by velvety yet firm tannins. A lining of liquorice, clove and violets lifts the mid-palate and drives the refreshing finish. Vegan.
2020
Barone RicasoliChianti Classico
CVNE, Cune Gran Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
92
From 45-year-old bush vines, an enticing nose of sweet cedary oak and ripe, spicy black fruit, hints of blueberry and black cherry. Rich black fruit melds with brighter plums, herb and spice notes weaving through. Good depth of fruit, integrated tannins and a long finish. Still lively – and will continue to evolve in bottle. Vegan.
2015
CVNERioja
Raats, Dolomite Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2020
92
Wow, super good value!' were the first words I wrote on tasting this – and not surprising with Cabernet Franc maestro Bruwer Raats behind it. A 10% addition of Malbec gives lovely plushness and 14 months in oak adds a gentle smoky depth, but the flavours are all Franc: inky blue and blackberries, blood plums, crushed herbs and lingering graphite freshness, all cloaked in supple tannins. Vegan.
2020
Raats
Berry Bros & Rudd, Côtes du Rhône Rouge by Rémi Pouizin, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2021
91
Rémi Pouzin of Domaine Dieu-Le-Fit in Visan makes this great value organic Côtes du Rhône blend for Berry Bros. Peppery, herbal red berry and cherry aromas lead to a lively, juicy palate with smooth tannins. Lovely purity of fruit here; ripe red berries and blackberries are balanced by a mineral freshness. So enjoyable!
2021
Berry Bros & RuddCôtes du Rhône
Chateau Musar, Musar Jeune Red, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, 2020
91
Luscious fruit, savoury depth and soft tannins define Musar’s unoaked Cinsault and Syrah-based red, designed to be drunk upon release. An explosion of blue fruit is followed by violet, tapenade, sage and dried mint, with black pepper adding freshness. Alcohol is superbly integrated, making this a juicy, dangerously drinkable wine.
2020
Chateau Musar
Domaine Métrat & Fils, La Scandaleuse, Beaujolais, Chiroubles, Burgundy, France, 2020
91
From 60-year-old vines at 400m, there's ample concentration and structure in this elegantly ripe Gamay, styled almost like a Pinot Noir. Sappy, juicy red cherry with a savoury cured meat edge and whispers of potpourri, framed by refreshing acidity and soft, powdery tannins.
2020
Domaine Métrat & FilsBeaujolais
Mehofer Neudeggerhof, Neudegg Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria, 2020
91
A delightful expression of Zweigelt, purple-hued, with a deep perfume of fleshy black cherries and dried rose. Light in body, with a crushed berry and cherry sappiness, aged in old Austrian barrels, but no discernible oak character. Easy drinking, especially served slightly chilled.
2020
Mehofer Neudeggerhof
Varner, Foxglove Pinot Noir, Central Coast, California, USA, 2017
91
There are only a handful of good Californian Pinots under £20 and this inaugural release from brothers Jim and Bob Varner is a welcome find. Ripe red cherry and raspberry fruit leads the way, backed by juicy acidity, hints of autumn leaves and sweet smoky spice.
2017
VarnerCentral Coast
Balla Géza, Kadarka, Transylvania, Romania, 2020
90
And now for something different... I loved this wine, which comes distinctively packaged in a bottle wrapped in brown paper. It's made from the Kadarka grape, also commonly found in Hungary (and in Bulgaria, where it's known as Gamza). It can make full, tannic reds, but this expression is lighter in body, delightfully fresh and fruity. It's bright, palish ruby in colour and sings with aromas and flavours of fresh morello cherry, juicy and pure. There's a decent grip on the finish. I'd serve this very slightly chilled, as an alternative to Beaujolais.
2020
Balla Géza
Castellore, Specially Selected, Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata, Italy, 2020
89
This hearty, warming red is not one of Aldi's new range, but the benefit of an extra year in (the unnecessarily heavy) bottle has softened the chewy tannins. Inky, opulent black berries and cherries flood the nose and lengthy palate, infused with smoky minerals. A smart bottle that would make a great gift.
2020
CastelloreAglianico del Vulture
Domaine des Forges, Coteaux du Layon, 1er Cru Chaume, Loire, France, 2018
92
A classic, with all the energy and concentration you would expect from this prized terroir. Intense aromas of peach, mango, pineapple and marmalade rest on a layer of honeycomb and toasted almonds. Fruit lifted by assertive acid drive, a firm mineral backbone and glazed-ginger spiciness.
2018
Domaine des ForgesCoteaux du Layon
Diatomists, Amontillado 12 Year Old, Jerez, Spain
93
The innovative Diatomists team works with selected growers in Jerez, putting as much emphasis on terroir as the solera system in the production of their Sherries. Their excellent range includes this vibrant Amontillado, bursting with salty, richly savoury aromas, with layers of roasted nuts, dried apricots, dried orange peel and ripe lemon. Intense, rich palate that unfurls with impressive depth of flavour and persistence; rich and rounded savoury tones, cut through with electric acidity for a bone-dry, lip-smacking saline finish. Super!
Diatomists
