Jefford on Monday

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Chateauneuf in spring

The different ways in which white wines can be structured is more various than most of us allow. And the fact that the cool-climate, northern European white has been the dominant aesthetic model worldwide over the last couple of decades is just silly.

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Emmanuel Giboulot

A selfless idealist, fighting for agricultural freedom and new solutions to vineyard challenges? Or a biodynamic fundamentalist making life difficult for his neighbours, friends and colleagues? Mention Emmanuel Giboulot in wine circles, and you tend to hear the sound of knees jerking en masse -- in opposite directions.

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Jefford on Monday: Grey's Anatomy

high spring vineyards in Brda - Jefford

Ask British wine drinkers what their favourite grape variety is, and almost a quarter of them will reply Pinot Grigio. Their wine of choice comes in a screwcapped bottle made of clear or faintly tinted glass, with a simple, graphic label featuring an ear-catching if ephemeral Italian brand, and costing maybe £5.99 or £6.99. The wine inside is colourless. That it is also odourless and flavourless (and the more odourless and flavourless, the more popular) is a now-venerable wine-trade quip.

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Jefford Pinot vines Aÿ

Generous sunshine: very sinister. No one in Champagne likes early spring warmth. "They’re forecasting cooler weather for the next 10 days," said Roederer’s chef de caves, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. "We're very happy about that. We could get a heavy frost at any time until the end of April, and the vines are starting to move already." Here's a bagful of dispatches from the land of foam and fortune.

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Jefford on Monday: Shades of Orange

Cormons

Lunch, recently, in Cormòns, one of the key villages in Italy's Collio; the discussion swung round to orange wines. Cue the key question, beautifully posed.

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Jefford on Monday

jefford

Award-winning writer Andrew Jefford's Monday column on Decanter.com