The 20 best rosés from beyond Provence this year
Elizabeth Gabay MW presents 20 of the best rosés for the summer from beyond Provence, and notes that the choice from around the world is getting stronger and stronger.
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Far from being limited to just Provence, exciting rosé is found around the world.
This proved to be an extremely diverse tasting, both in terms of quality (from very ordinary to outstanding, with quite a few terribly-made along the way), and with colours and styles ranging from practically white to light reds.
This diversity begs the question: can we define rosé? There is no legal definition and accepting that almost anything can be a rosé (apart from blanc de blanc, red and orange wine) allows for an even greater panoply of styles.
It can be challenging to identify the good wines, especially as no one region is universally the best.
Scroll down for Liz’s choice of the best rosés from beyond Provence for this summer
Strong regions included northern Spain with wines from Rioja and Ribera del Duero (better known for their red wines) and Navarra, with its strong rosé heritage, producing a wide range of styles and quality, ranging from fresh easy drinking to more serious ageworthy wines.
Examples from Italy showed that it is still more ‘know your producer than know your region’, with little consistency across a region.
Languedoc continues to offer good value for money and there were a number of very pretty fresh pinks. Greece, Mallorca and Georgia offered an interesting selection of unique grape varieties.
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Colour wheel
The question of when is a rosé a rosé, was certainly raised in this tasting with colours ranging from white to red.
The palest rosés came from Reuilly. This central Loire appellation allows for 100% Pinot Gris which can be white or, with some skin contact, a pale blush.
The darkest came from Tavel and Navarra, famous for their maceration or saignée wines respectively.
It was also encouraging to see a growing number of rosés submitted with some age. 2023 may not seem old, but when taken into account that some retailers still panic if rosé is less than a year old, this is good news.
A considerable number of 2021 vintage rosés received high scores, making it interesting to see how different rosé have aged.
It felt like a struggle to fit so many wines from different regions and divergent styles into a 20 wine recommendation, not just because there are now too many good wines but because there is growing confidence in producing a wide diversity of styles, offering consumers the chance to discover a rosé which suits their taste.
A growing number of producers also submitted two or three different levels of rosé.
High altitude, oak, amphora or jars and old vines added an intriguing extra layer of complexity and it was good to see that oak was not the only method used to create a premium wine.
There were far fewer ‘Provence-Style’ rosés in the tasting, and it was good to see both a growing number of wines showing regional diversity and high quality wines.
Greater regionality
Navarra rosé is always made using the saignée method, traditionally bled off its red wines, and has suffered in recent years from the strongly held belief that direct press rosés are the best.
A growing number of stellar saignée rosés are showing that they have an important role in the range of rosé styles.
The use of white grapes in rosé also gives a distinctive style. While white grapes are often present in Provence rosés, it is often only in small percentages.
However both Tavel and Rioja can boast much higher proportions of white grapes which contribute to both colour and freshness.
Confidence in embracing these regional styles and traditions seemed to result in better and more interesting wines.
Diversity was certainly the key, which made this tasting challenging, but also exciting.
It is no longer possible to dismiss rosé as a single style and there is certainly a wine for all tastes, occasions and budgets.
Best rosés from beyond Provence
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Bodegas Pinea, Korde Rosé, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2021
Single vineyard Tempranillo at the astonishing altitude of 940m, the wine is fermented in concrete eggs and barrels. A dark copper pink with mature aromas of rich, ripe, slightly toffeed fruit. Gorgeously mellow, sweet ripe cherry and dark plum continues on the palate with notes of well integrated oak giving structure and flavours of nuts and vanilla. Mouthwatering acidity, rich and mouthfilling with a touch of salty minerality. Simply delicious and a serious wine, gorgeous for enjoying with a meal or even on its own.
2021
Castilla y LéonSpain
Bodegas PineaRibera del Duero
Domaine Maby, Libiamo, Tavel, Rhône, France, 2023

This top of the range Tavel is, unusually, vinified and aged in oak. Pale golden pink. Faint notes of oak on the nose becoming more evident on the palate. A complex range of flavours reveals concentrated cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruit, a touch of pomegranate molasses and a hint of garrigue. This is balanced by the sweet, spice and nuttiness of the oak, with a long saline finish firmly enhancing the ripe yellow peach fruit creating some umami salt and sweet notes making this a great gastronomic match. Serious complexity and an outstandlingly classy wine.
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine MabyTavel
Bodegas Caudalia, Xi'ipal, Navarra, Northern Spain, Spain, 2021

Only made in good vintages, this wine from old, ungrafted vines on the cooler northern slopes of Navarra. Very pale shell pink, this wine starts off deceptively as a delicate pretty pink with fresh acidity. Silky juicy white and green apples, white and yellow peaches and a hint of raspberries compote, with vinification in old cement tanks giving a slightly chalky texture. But as the wine opens up, some serious weighty ripe red fruit emerges, crunchy wild red berries with their biting edge acidity emerges. This is serious wine only just beginning to hint at mature richness.
2021
Northern SpainSpain
Bodegas CaudaliaNavarra
Château d'Aqueria, Heritage Tavel, Tavel, Rhône, France, 2023

Pale cherry red. Initially, somewhat restrained on the nose, this opens up really quickly to vibrant red fruit, powerful cherries, damsons, hedgerow fruit, pomegranate and even some blood orange citrus. On the palate, blue florals, wild red berry fruit, a touch of wild garrigue tannins, long silky, lacy, mouthwatering acidity and some lovely complexity. Stunning and classy, the ideal rosé for a red wine lover. Fabulous concentration, structure that manages power and delicacy in one.
2023
RhôneFrance
Château d'AqueriaTavel
Domaine Cordaillat, Les Sables, Reuilly, Loire, France, 2022

This single parcel wine is a pale golden pinkish yellow with mellow aromas of pot pourri and dried peaches. On the palate it is lush and creamy with sweet ripe fruit. A soft richness of caramel notes, butter and warm brown spice, ripe white peach and hints of is balanced by vibrantly fresh acidity with a touch of grapefruit pith and some very delicate gentle phenolics which support the soft fruit. Bone dry but charmingly rich.
2022
LoireFrance
Domaine CordaillatReuilly
Domaine de Mourchon, Soubois, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2023

Syrah can be a fruit bomb in rosé, but here, fermented and aged in barrels, it has depth and structure. A classic pale salmon pink colour with fruit forward, sweet ripe red berry aromas. On the palate, the Syrah is given full reign to express exuberant juicy, sweet red fruit, ripe, round and rich, balanced by excellent, long, fresh acidity. As the wine opens up, the character of Rhône Syrah emerges with some serious weight and notes of violets, cranberries, and some delicately fine, mineral tannins and a saline twist from the oak. This is a serious wine.
2023
RhôneFrance
Domaine de MourchonCôtes du Rhône Villages
Weingut Langmann, Ried Hochgrail Sonnenhang Schilcher, Weststeiermark, Steiermark, Austria, 2022

From the hilly southern region of Styria, possibly now better known for its vibrant Sauvignon Blancs, was also once well known for its pink Schilcher. This is made with the local variety Wildbacher, historically regarded as a gut-strangling acidic wine. Stefan Langmann has managed to show what old vines in the right hot sunny vineyard can achieve. Copper pink with incredibly concentrated fruit aromas. On the palate there is opulent dark cherries, an almost salty chewiness, dark, soft, velvety cherry fruit, sloes and damsons. Silky and refined. Gorgeous.
2022
SteiermarkAustria
Weingut LangmannWeststeiermark
Bodega Ava Vi, Anava, Mallorca, Spain, 2023

From the sun-drenched hills of the island of Mallorca, this local variety is showing the exciting potential of this rare rosé. Pale copper with the oak giving soft fruit aromas of spice, garrigue and honey. The delicate sweet oak character continues on the palate with beautifully silky, long acidity. Bursting with softly ripe apples, pears and yellow plums with some barely ripe cherries. There is a sweet mellowness with a good structure gives the wine ageing potential. Two-thirds of the grapes fermented in barrel with 1/3 in tank.
2023
MallorcaSpain
Bodega Ava Vi
Ousyra Winery, Fokiano Rosé, Cyclades, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2022

Scotsman Edward Maitland-Makgill Crichton makes this wine on the Greek island of Syros with old, ungrafted Fokiano. Copper golden there are delicate aromas of mellow fruit and saline sea spray. On the palate the maritime influence seems to give a saline, mineral character and almost austere, mouthwatering finish balanced by bruised apples, and peaches, sweet pears, wild strawberries, spice, honey and wild blossom. There is a vibrant pithy acidity with a gravelly texture, especially in the mid-palate. Lovely freshness, and almost a classic roséé except for that intense salinity which brings a fine manzanilla to mind.
2022
Aegean IslandsGreece
Ousyra WineryCyclades
Weingut Scheuermann, Rose Trocken, Landwein, Pfalz, Germany, 2021

In an old style stoneware jar, this rosé is certainly aiming at a market not focused on colour. A pale copper pink, reflecting its age and use of oak. Aromas of delicate toast, stone and dried fruit. On the palate the fruit opens out with time (decanting helps) to reveal sweet strawberries, spice and sweet hay. But more than being a fruit bomb, this wine is beautifully structural with long, fine, mineral backbone, firm phenolics and concentrated, linear weight. This is definitely a rosé which would appeal to Riesling lovers.
2021
PfalzGermany
Weingut ScheuermannLandwein
Copper Lining, Copper Rosé, Elgin, Cape South Coast, South Africa, 2021

Pale copper pink. Perfumed floral, ripe fruit and soft, buttery, barley sugar richness aromas. Continues on the palate with soft mellowed honey, beeswax, dried apricots and the fresh astringency of wild red berries. Slightly pithy green apple acidity and stony minerality contrasting with the mellowed honed fruit and delicate, perfumed white florals. Intriguing, honeyed, long saline mineral finish and rather nice in a funky way. Aged and mellowed with amazingly vibrant acidity. Juicy dried apricots, intense red berries.
2021
Cape South CoastSouth Africa
Copper LiningElgin
Famille Fabre, Lux, Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2024

With packaging as carbon neutral and sustainable as possible, this fashionably pale rosé offers delicate aromas. Fresh, pretty and perfect for summer and idyllic garden parties with classic Cinsault flavours of pretty pink flowers, white peaches, apples, and pears and zippy redcurrant fruit. Balanced by refreshing, crunchy acidity this wine is charmingly lovely, and elegant.
2024
Languedoc-RoussillonFrance
Famille FabreLanguedoc
Divineo, Petale de Grenache, Vin de France, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2022

Pale copper red. Fine acidity, pretty raspberry fruit, some gentle tannins and very vibrant textured acidity. Defonitely a more natural wine character rather than something more confected and does benefit from decanting or opening early to allow the fruit to come forward. This wine is sublime – it has real tannic weight, moderated by freshness, beautiful fruit, backed up by structure and ripeness. Clearly natty, and clearly on the very ripe side of things, but it's absolutely bursting with structure and acidity. If you can look past the natural nose, it's a rather gorgeous wine – but not for the uninitiated. The nattiness dissipates quite quickly after decanting, cleaning up to rather pretty floral notes and lots of juicy red fruit. Elegant, pretty, classy, concentrated.
2022
Languedoc-RoussillonFrance
DivineoVin de France
Faustino Rivero Ulecia, Rosado, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2024

Rioja rosés come in a myriad of styles and prices. This value for money rosé is proudly pink with forward red fruit aromas. Crisp, crunchy red berry fruit, strawberry ice freshness, sweet red fruit compote, ripe plums, rhubarb, cloves and vanilla give an abundantly fruity wine. With grapes grown at 700m, this rosé also achieves long, vibrant acidity, with citrus zestiness and a saline finish. A really joyous rosé for fresh easy drinking
2024
Northern SpainSpain
Faustino Rivero UleciaRioja
Jonquères d'Oriola, Garden Party, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2024

Very pale shell pink with delicate cherry blossom aromas. Incredibly pretty and silky with fruit and acidity harmoniously integrated with fine grain texture and a long saline finish. Delicate cherry blossom, sour wild hedgerow fruit, mouthwatering freshness. Has a classic elegance with lots of charm. Floral, intense, ripe, rounded, velvety. Full marks for value for money. Not aiming at complexity – pop this open and enjoy.
2024
Languedoc-RoussillonFrance
Jonquères d'OriolaCôtes du Roussillon
K'avshiri, Assemblage Rosé, Black Sea Subtropical Zone, Georgia, 2024

Rosé made from Ojaleshi in qveri is a one of a kind wine. A beautiful cherry pink. Some pretty floral notes, a hint of rosehips, a touch of rosewater with some silky, creamy acidity and finishing with some gravelly texture. There is red fruit concentration mid palate, its soft finish avoids any phenolic structure. This is very much an on-trend, fashionable summer red, its supple structure making it ideal for drinking chilled.
2024
Black Sea Subtropical ZoneGeorgia
K'avshiri
Masi, Rosa dei Masi, Rosato Trevenezie, Veneto, Italy, 2024

From Merlot growing at 700m in the Valpolicella region, where red wines reign supreme, comes this pretty rosé. Very pale shell creamy peach with sweet creamy rich melon and peach aromas. Energetic and remarkably concentrated on the palate with smooth silky freshness, zesty redcurrant fruits and the biting sourness of wild red berries. Some extra weight with gentle phenolics, fine mineral length and long citrus acidity. Crystalline freshness and lively energy.
2024
VenetoItaly
MasiRosato Trevenezie
Fattoria Uccelliera, La Prima Volta, Toscana, Tuscany, Italy, 2024

From south facing hillside slopes, the Sangiovese gives amazing firmness to the structure. Salmon pink with firm red berry fruit, almost red wine aromas? This firmness continues on the palate with subtle tannic weight, seriously ripe and opulent fruit: blackberries, cherries, some redcurrants. A real departure from minimalist wines focussed solely on freshness. This has weight, structure, a sense of identity. Gutsy and definitely a rose for red wine lovers.
2024
TuscanyItaly
Fattoria UccellieraToscana
Pierrick Harang, Le Petit Balthazar, Pays d'Oc, Pays d'Oc, France, 2024

The palest of pale pinks with delicate aromas. Pretty ripe strawberry fruit gives charm, balanced by elegant crispness. Fresh, leafy and zesty grapefruit acidity makes this incredibly moreish and mouthwatering. For those who are not charmed by richer styles, this vibrantly fresh rosé is a great go to for the summer. Keep a bottle in the fridge ready for friends, aperitifs, and relaxing moments all summer.
2024
Pays d'OcFrance
Pierrick HarangPays d'Oc
Viñedos Veramonte, Pinot Noir Rosé, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2024

An extra six months of age thanks to its southern hemisphere provenance allows this wine to offer nice integrated fruit and acidity. The pale salmon colour gives no indication of just how exuberant this rosé can be. A bucket load of ripe strawberries and raspberries, tart sloes and dark damsons and blackcurrants leaps out of the glass. Fruit-driven, energetic and powerful, eschewing minimalism in favour of actual flavour and taste while still managing a fashionable colour and freshness. Lots of spice, this is old-school rosé at its best.
2024
Casablanca ValleyChile
Viñedos Veramonte

Elizabeth Gabay MW has specialised in the wines of south-eastern France and Hungary since the 1980’s. Working as an independent wine merchant and consultant, she graduated as a Master of Wine in 1998 and moved to southeast France in 2002.
Her book, Rose: Understanding the pink wine revolution, was published in 2018 and she has continued to write about and judge rosé wines for Decanter.
Aside from Decanter, she has written for Drinks Business, Harpers, The Wine Merchant, VinCE and Nomacorc.
She is the lead instructor for the Provence immersion course run by the French Wine Society and she has judged at numerous Decanter World Wine Awards since 2007.