Rooted in Italy: Native varieties at the pinnacle of DWWA scoring
The Decanter World Wine Awards always highlights some of the most interesting and unique wines on the planet. Combine this with the huge number of indigenous grape varieties in Italy and you’ve got a recipe for success, as our Regional Chair for Tuscany, Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW demonstrated recently during a masterclass in Verona.
Ten Platinum-awarded (97 points and above) wines from last year’s World Wine Awards were selected by the Master of Wine and poured for a full-house during Vinitaly, one of the world’s largest wine trade fairs.
Of Belisario’s ‘Cambrugiano’ Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva 2021, Cherutti-Kowal noted that Verdicchio is ‘one of Italy’s great grapes…reflective of its terroir’, while Siddùra’s ‘Maia’ Vermentino di Gallura 2023 showcased ‘a special place for Vermentino’.
Described by Cherutti-Kowal as ‘a fascinating grape’ related to other grapes in the region and believed to be a parent of Lagrein, the Schiava of Pfannenstielhof’s ‘Der Pfannenstiel’ 2019 draws its character from grapes grown in the UGA of Santa Maddalena/ St Magdalener: ‘We’re seeing more skin contact, more richness, more ageing’, she notes.
At the masterclass, guests could learn more about DWWA, the judging process and the wines tasted – with all the information available in the DWWA masterclass booklet.
From Tuscany to Piedmont
Good quality Montepulciano can age for quite a long time,’ announces Cherutti-Kowal as she guides the room to the next wine. Zaccagnini’s ‘Tralcetto’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2020 undergoes a longer-than-average maceration, with ageing in oak for around 18 months. This late-ripening variety needs the heat of the south, but is capable of producing reasonable levels of acidity when grown at altitude.
Nebbiolo was first mentioned in records from the 13th century. Related to both Freisa and Vespolina, it’s capable of good structure. ‘Maceration – Nebbiolo needs that’, states Cherutti-Kowal, noting that Broccardo’s Barolo Bricco San Pietro 2021 comes from an MGA which emphasises structure and acidity.
Guests at the sold-out masterclass.
Italy's noble reds
Sangiovese is the most widely grown red wine variety in Italy. ‘DNA has it related to Ciliegiolo and – believe it or not – Campania and the south,’ says Cherutti-Kowal, citing two of its relatives, Nerello Mascalese and Frappato. Tasting Capanna’s Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019, she states, ‘that seamlessness of acidity; that is Sangiovese.
The beauty of Aglianico, even in the south, is that it has quite high acidity,’ adds Cherutti-Kowal, pointing out that this helps with the longevity and freshness of the wines. Donnachiara’s Taurasi Riserva 2020 is an excellent example of this ancient variety.
The best of Veneto
Cantina Sabaini’s Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2015 is the first vintage of this wine, which has undergone long ageing in used barriques.
It’s made from a collection of varieties indigenous to Veneto, including Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta. Cherutti-Kowal invited winemaker, Alberto Sabaini, who was present during the masterclass, to speak about the wine, which he described as a ‘special project’ of the family.
‘Glera is a grape that’s been known about since the 1600s,’ announced Cherutti-Kowal as she introduced Ruggeri's Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze 2023.
Found in two distinct typologies, it’s the Glera Tondo version that’s most often used for the production of Prosecco Superiore in the hills of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Made rather unusually (for a Cartizze) in a Brut style with just 8g/l of residual sugar, she explains that ‘you get what I call the purity of the terroir of Cartizze’.
Sangiovese reimagined
The final wine, Torre a Cona’s ‘Fonti e Lecceta’ Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice 2016, is another Sangiovese, but ‘Sangiovese in a very different expression’, explains Cherutti-Kowal.
Made with dried grapes aged for five years in small barrels known as caratelli, it’s a wine full of dried citrus peel and nutty notes. ‘What do you think of this one?’ asked Cherutti-Kowal, and the reply was a murmur of approval and even a thumbs up from one of the guests!
See below to discover the 97-point wines tasted from the DWWA judges at the 2025 competition (in tasting order).
Cantine Belisario, Cambrugiano, Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva, Le Marche 2021
Platinum, 97 points
Exemplary aromas of honeyed nuts, lemon, lime and fennel with a supreme drive of freshness and purity which ebbs and flows alongside the stylish mineral structure and and zingy nettle acidity. Very long and accomplished. Alc 13.5%
Siddùra, Maìa, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore, Sardinia 2023
Platinum, 97 points
Beguiling granitic austerity meets sumptuous yellow stone fruit with a sultry citrus backing. Richly textured from the enhancing layers of creamy oak which melt into the salivating beam of acidity that surges towards the finish. Alc 13.5%
Pfannenstielhof, Der Pfannenstiel Classico, Santa Maddalena, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol 2019
Platinum, 97 points
An exceptional rose petal, wild flower and black tea fragrance encased in a wonderful sandalwood structure with an enticing red liquorice acidity and rounded, supple tannins. Flamboyant and long with a mocha, coffee bean finish. Alc 14%
Zaccagnini, Tralcetto, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva, Abruzzo 2020
Platinum, 97 points
Ardent black cherries, raspberries, violets and rose petals complemented by swirls of dark chocolate and dried blueberries are underpinned by fine-grained tannins and a bright acidity. Layers of complexity unfold on the long, luxurious finish. Alc 14 %
Broccardo, Bricco San Pietro, Barolo, Piedmont 2021
Platinum, 97 points
Multiple layers of black and red cherries, plums, roses and violets in a backdrop of toast and tar. The tannins are confident yet mellow, the acidity lifted and grippy and the finish is long and empowering. Alc 14.5%
Capanna, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Tuscany 2019
Platinum, 97 points
Glossy ripe red plums interweave delicately with floral, herbal and spicy tobacco notes. Gloriously concentrated and statuesque on the palate with a rippling texture, thriving tannins and an acidity perfectly in tune. In fine fettle. Alc 15%
Donnachiara, Taurasi Riserva, Campania 2020
Platinum, 97 points
The epitome of modern Taurasi displaying pristine notes of dark cherry fruit, vanilla and coffee. Polished and compact with a finely-tuned texture and lush, velvety tannins kept in check by a refreshing acidity. Plenty of ageing potential! Alc 13.5%
Cantina Sabaini, Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva, Veneto 2015
Platinum, 97 points
Spell-binding swathes of ripe red and black cherries, raspberries and plums encircle the deliciously complex palate. Velvety and smooth with flourish of sweet vanilla spice and dark chocolate that funnels towards the unwavering finish line. Alc 16.5%
Ruggeri, Brut, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze, Veneto 2023
Platinum, 97 points
Exuberant lemon blossom, ripe pear and apple aromas glisten over the creamy mousse which ripples elegantly through the palate. A fine tension of acidity adds to the charm and culminates in a lush tropical fruit finale. Alc 11.5%
Torre a Cona, Fonti E Lecceta, Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice, Tuscany 2016
Platinum, 97 points
Glitzy flashes of orange pulp, dried apricot, peach and mango shimmer over the blissfully sweet palate with an undercurrent of nutty almonds and dark chocolate inhabiting the sumptuous texture. Beaming with citrus zest on the finish. Alc 14%
Search all DWWA 2025 winners
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