Can’t afford claret? Argentina has forged its own style of Bordeaux blend, and, says CHRISTELLE GUIBERT, the best offer a viable, value alternative
Malbec is to Argentina what Nebbiolo is to Piedmont or Pinot Noir is to Burgundy. This darkskinned grape, once a popular blending component for Bordeaux, has discovered its true home in Argentina. Unsurprisingly, Malbec is the most widely planted variety here and every producer has a selection of single-varietal Malbecs in its portfolio.
But while this grape may be synonymous with Argentinian wine, the country’s mainstay is red blends. Bordeaux blends are gaining in popularity and Malbec generally remains the major component. I believe it is this unique Argentinian blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that will be the country’s calling card, as opposed to single-varietal Malbecs or more true Bordeaux-style Cabernet-Merlot blends.
Unlike other New World countries, Bordeaux varieties are relatively new to Argentina. In the past, wineries wanted a range of wines, so they planted as many grape varieties as possible and then mixed them together and hoped for the best; the results were often best forgotten.
Thanks to the revolutionary work of the pioneering Nicolás Catena, international investment in the country’s wine industry (not least Catena’s joint venture with Château Lafite-Rothschild), and input from famed consultants such as Michel Rolland and Paul Hobbs, producers now have a better understanding of Bordeaux grapes. As a result, the wines have gained global renown.
With 350 days of sunshine, the high altitude of new vineyards (1,400m above sea level in Mendoza and some as high as 2,400m in Salta), a semi-arid desert climate and no vine disease, Argentina’s wine regions are very different to Europe and even the rest of the world. Working with Bordeaux varieties requires a careful approach: if the grapes don’t reach complete maturity, the wines will develop herbaceous aromas and bitter flavours.
But improvements in the vineyard and cellar mean the country is now producing some very fine Cabernet blends at all price levels. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot here can be very elegant with great finesse, achieving the same colour and soft tannins found in single-varietal Malbecs.
These blends also offer very good value for money. More adventurous bodegas will often add Tempranillo, Syrah or Bonarda to the mix; it often works, adding further interest and Argentinian flair to their wines. But despite the great leaps forward in the past few decades, Argentina still has a young history of high-quality wines: bodegas are still experimenting with grapes, clones, high-altitude vineyards and equipment.
To me, most of the wines tasted on my recent trip wouldn’t last more than five years. For a bottle priced less than £10 this is not a problem, but for wines marketed at £25 or more, – with fancy labels and pointlessly heavy bottles, trying to compete with the best Bordeaux has to offer – it can be a disappointment for the consumer. The 25 wines below all punch above their weight and offer superb mid-term drinking.
Catena Zapata, Nicolás Catena
Zapata, Mendoza 2003
★★★★★
Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec,
Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Elegant, minty, floral black fruit.
Lovely depth and acidity with
firm tannins. Very classy. From
2009–2013. £46.65; Bib
Ben Marco, Expressivo,
Mendoza 2006 ★★★★
60% Malbec, 10% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 10% Syrah, 10%
Petit Verdot, 10% Tannat. Ripe
black fruits with elegance rather
than power. Expressive and
complex with lot of layers.
From 2009–2011. £13.50; WSo
Catena Zapata, Nicolás Catena
Zapata, Mendoza 2005 ★★★★
78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22%
Malbec. This has lovely fruit
purity: black berry aromas lead
to a balanced palate backed by
good acidity and floral notes.
Lovely finesse. From 2011–2013.
£46.65; Bib
Caro, Mendoza 2006 ★★★★
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50%,
Malbec. A joint venture between
Nicolás Catena and Domaines
Baron de Rothschild of Lafite.
Robust, vibrant black fruit and firm
tannins give a balance between
the Bordeaux and Argentinian
styles. From 2009–2012. N/A UK
MAR_El Esteco, Altimus, Cafayate
Valley, Salta 2005 ★★★★
40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35%
Merlot, 15% Bonarda, 5% Tannat,
5% Syrah. From 1,700m-high
vineyards, this has robust, ripe
black fruit and olives, and
balanced but big tannins.
From 2009–2011. £29.75; CdG
Finca la Anita, Varúa, Pinacoteca,
Mendoza 2007 ★★★★
100% Merlot. Vivacious red
cherry nose with hint of herb
and mint. Present but integrated
oak. Elegant concentration. Soft
tannins and high acidity, vibrant
fruit with purity and freshness.
From 2009–2012. £85; Hpa
Finca Flichman, Dedicado,
Tupungato, Mendoza 2006
★★★★
60% Malbec, 30% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 10% Syrah. Expressive,
spicy, floral nose. Acidity adds
freshness to vibrant floral fruit
palate. Soft tannic finish. From
2009–2011. £18.95; StG
Finca Sophenia, Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon,
Mendoza 2007 ★★★★
From the foothills of the Andes,
this has pure cassis fruit. Natural
acidity, grainy tannin and
elegant fruit characters with a
great freshness on the finish.
From 2009–2011. £10.05; Ell
Mendel, Unus,
Mendoza 2006 ★★★★
70% Malbec, 30% Cabernet
Sauvignon. Elegant red berry
and cassis fruits combine with
integrated toasted oak. Tannic
structure supported by a natural
acidity. Complex and fresh. From
2009–2012. £20.60; PrA
Pulenta Estate, Gran Corte,
Mendoza 2006 ★★★★
35% Malbec, 25% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 12%,
Tannat, 5% Petit Verdot. Cherry,
plum and spice. Expressive,
sophisticated palate with good
acidity and elegant fruit depth.
From 2009–2013. £19.95; BBr
Sur de Los Andes, Infinito, Lujan
de Cuyo, Mendoza 2005 ★★★★
60% Malbec, 20% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc,
10% Merlot. Plum fruit nose. The
palate is fresh and vibrant with
smooth tannins, clean red fruit
and good concentration on the
finish. From 2009. N/A UK
Finca Sophenia, Synthesis,
The Blend, Tupungato,
Mendoza 2006 ★★★★
45% Malbec, 35% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. The
region’s best grapes give elegant
black forest fruit and sweet
spice. Bold, with grainy tannins.
From 2009–2012. £21.99; Ell
Luigi Bosca, Gala 2,
Mendoza 2006 ★★★★
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10%
Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot.
Cassis and pepper nose. Robust
palate with high acidity and
elegant structure, intense, spicy
fruit characters; depth on finish.
From 2009–2012. £15.95; HBa
Salentein, Numina, Uco Valley,
Mendoza 2004 ★★★★
70% Malbec, 30% Merlot. From
the coolest part of Mendoza,
this has elegant thyme perfume.
Balanced palate with high
acidity, characterful red fruit,
firm tannins and good length.
From 2009–2012. £14.99;
D&DSusanna Balbo, Brioso, Agrelo,
Mendoza 2005 ★★★★
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15%
Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5%
Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot. Classic
herb and pepper nose. Elegant
tannins, fine acidity and attractive
red fruit; good depth on the finish.
From 2009–2012. £14.95; WSo
Weinert, Cavas de Weinert,
Mendoza 2002 ★★★★
Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot. Secondary aromas of
meat and forest floor. Mediumbodied
with firm tannins –
showing lots of development
but can still age. From 2009–
2014. £10.95; StG, WSo
Tapiz, Reserva Selección de
Barricas, Tupungato,
Mendoza 2004 ★★★★
46% Cabernet Sauvignon; 38%
Malbec; 16% Merlot. From the
high-altitude San Pablo vineyard.
Concentrated yet elegant. Velvet
tannins, integrated oak. Classy.
From 2009–2013. £13.99; Hpa
Alta Vista, Atemporal Blend,
Mendoza 2007 ★★★
43% Malbec, 36% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 11% Syrah, 10% Petit
Verdot. With grapes sourced
from Lujan de Cuyo and Valle de
Uco, this has vibrant red cherry
fruit and soft tannins. Well
made. From 2009. £12.95; CCI
Finca Flichman, Expresiones
Reserve, Mendoza 2007 ★★★
60% Malbec, 40% Cabernet
Sauvignon. Plum fruit and
herbal nose. Smooth palate with
firm tannic grip. Concentrated
fruit dominates, followed by soft
oak characters. Decent length.
From 2009. £9.95; StG
Salentein, MCM Winemaker’s
Selection, Uco Valley,
Mendoza 2006 ★★★
40% Malbec, 30% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. Red
berry nose. Good acidity with
firm tannins and vibrant red
fruit. Good-value, easy-drinking.
From 2009. £7.99; Tes
Weinert, Carrascal,
Mendoza 2005 ★★★
Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot. Rich,
evolving leather aroma. Some
meatiness emerges on the
palate. Pleasant, old-fashioned
winemaking giving early
developed characters.
From 2009–2011. £7.95; StG
Written by Christelle Guibert
