Lambrusco: Time to think again

Don't write off Lambrusco as sweet, simple wine made on an industrial scale, urges Margaret Rand. Today's best examples are remarkable and well worth seeking out. Here she does just that, on a visit to its home, Emilia-Romagna...

Six must-buy Lambruscos

Rinaldini, Vecchio Moro, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro NV
18/20pts (93/100pts)
Lovely fresh grassy nose and dry, aromatic palate; terrifically appetising. The blend includes 10% Ancellota and 5% Marzemino.
Price: £11.50 The Wine Society
Drink 2014
Alc 12%

Vittorio Graziano, Fontana dei Boschi, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 2009
18/20pts (93/100pts)
Wild spices and herbs, with tannic grip and complexity. A compelling wine made by Metodo Ancestrale. Graziano’s wines age beautifully: a rarity in Lambrusco.
Price: £15-£16 40 Maltby St, Cheshire Smokehouse, Oxford Wine Co, Winetraders
Drink 2014-2016
Alc 12%

Medici Ermete, Concerto, Lambrusco Reggiano 2013
17.5/20pts (91/100pts)
Dry, lean and fresh, with grassy blackberry fruit, very moreish.
Price: £15 Dalla Terra, Hedonism, Harrods, Le Langhe, Penistone Court, Valvona & Crolla
Drink 2014-2015
Alc 11.5%

Cantina della Volta, Rimosso, Lambrusco di Sorbara 2012
17/20pts (90/100pts)
Bright, fresh and herbal; ripe cherries lifted by piercing acidity. Made by Metodo Ancestrale.
Price: £12.75 Amazon UK
Drink 2014
Alc 11.5%

Paltrinieri Radice, Lambrusco di Sorbara 2012
17/20pts (90/100pts)
Savoury and complex, with floral and herbal notes. Made in the Metodo Ancestrale method.
Price: £18.95 Buon Vino
Drink 2014
Alc 11.5%

Cleto Chiarli, Pruno nero, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro
15/20pts (83/100pts)
More bubblegum in flavour – attractive if you want a slightly sweeter version. Made using the Charmat method.
Price: £12.95 Bottle Apostle, Carruthers & Kent, Champion Wines, Great Western Wine, Loki, Wine & Roses
Drink 2014
Alc 12%

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