Elvio Cogno Barolo: Tasting the Ravera cru

Michaela Morris explores the essence of the Ravera cru with Elvio Cogno owner Valter Fissore and a tasting of vintages from 2004 to 2012, published online exclusively for Decanter Premium members.

After a 30-year partnership with the Marcarini estate in La Morra, Elvio Cogno purchased the 300-year-old Cascina Nuova property in Ravera, Novello – the town where he grew up – in 1990.

Once a working farm, it is surrounded by 11.5ha of contiguous vineyards within Ravera. At that time, no one talked about this lesser-known cru. The cost per hectare was €100,000. ‘Today the best parcels might go for €2 million per hectare,’ asserts Valter Fissore.

Fissore had crossed the Tanaro river from Roero to work at Marcarini under the venerable Cogno, and married his daughter, Nadia, in 1988. Valter and Nadia worked alongside Cogno from the beginning of his new enterprise, taking over in 1996 but seeking guidance from Cogno until his recent passing in 2016.

Scroll down for Michaela’s tasting notes and scores

The Ravera cru

Ravera is a large MGA extending over 130ha, 96% of which lies in the commune of Novello, but 4% is situated across the boundary with Barolo.

The elevation rises from 300- 480 metres above sea level. Elvio Cogno’s primely located holdings sit at 380 metres and face south to southeast.

In the far southwest of the Barolo denomination, Ravera is in the direct path of fresh breezes from the Alps, rendering it a relatively cool site.

It is also distinguished from surrounding areas by its soil – limestone and clay with very little sand, much less than in neighbouring Barolo. These alkaline soils aid water retention.

Fissore describes the geology here as ‘a Serravallian island of in a Tortonian sea,’ referring to the era of its formation.

The resulting wines generally possess plenty of muscular structure and are often austere and compact in their youth, needing time to loosen up.

They can be particularly successful in warmer years when mountain winds and altitude provide reprieve from the heat. In the wake of climate change, Ravera has become increasingly prized.

Elvio Cogno’s inaugural release, in 1991, marked the first time the Ravera name appeared on a label. Fissore references his father-in-law with profound reverence. ‘I am very grateful to him,’ he says, crediting Cogno for championing the Ravera cru.

The winemaking

Little has changed in terms of winemaking. Fermentations are spontaneous, relying on wild yeasts. Long, slow macerations with a submerged cap average 40 days, and the wines are bottled without fining or filtering.

Ravera is the estate’s flagship wine, crafted from 70-year-old vines. Ageing is now exclusively in botti of 20, 30 and 50 hectolitres for 24 months, though until 2004 a portion was matured in used barriques.

‘It wasn’t winery technology that made the revolution; it was in the vineyards,’ declares Fissore, referring to Barolo in general as well as the Elvio Cogno estate specifically. In 2010 he introduced organic practices and is currently in the process of certification.

The tasting

Fissore opened this vertical for a small gathering at La Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso, one of the Langhe’s top restaurants. ‘What is Ravera?’ he asked.

My reply refers to its interpretation at Elvio Cogno: while an intense mineral refrain and savoury edge is detectable throughout, it is clear that Fissore is working towards increased purity. The more recent vintages demonstrate greater polish without sacrificing character. The 2013 may even eclipse 2010.

Fissore brings elegance to Ravera’s seemingly innate masculinity, and the wines of Elvio Cogno are a testament to the prestige of the Ravera cru.

Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 2004-2012:

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