Aged white Rioja back to 1920: What does it taste like?
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Ever wondered what old white Rioja tastes like, or how long you should keep it? Read on for Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW's top ageable whites, dating back to 1920.
White Rioja can mix it with the best when it comes to ageing, according to Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW – and with age comes complexity, nuance and uniqueness.
Scroll down for Pedro’s tasting notes & scores
What does aged white Rioja taste like?
Like all wines, the fruit character fades over time to leave a residue of tertiary flavours.
Old white Rioja is particularly adept at ageing well as it benefits from a long maturation period in oak before bottling, imparting complex notes of spices and nuts that are still there long after the fruit has gone.
The wines below have profiles that range from tasting like an old Tokaji and an old dry Sherry, to an aged white from Pessac-Léognan.
It’s worth noting how fresh many of the wines still appear. This could be down to the vintage, such as a cooler year yielding more acidity, or the grape variety, or both.
Viura is one of the key varieties for whites in the region, and when picked early it retains a good level of acidity. Tight bunches on the vine also mean that berries are less prone to rot.
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Below are some old white Riojas tasted by Pedro, going all the way back to 1920. Do you have any in your cellar?
Exploring aged white Rioja back to 1920:
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Marques de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay Especial, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1946

1946 was the greatest vintage for white wines in Rioja, and this is the greatest example, bottled in 1964. It is bright amber in colour,...
1946
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Marques de MurrietaRioja
Bodegas Paternina, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1920
Founded in 1896, Paternina fell into a period of decline in the late 20th century, but new owners Marqués de la Concordia are helping to...
1920
Northern SpainSpain
Bodegas PaterninaRioja
Marques de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay Especial, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1970

The season supported an abundant and ripe harvest, both for red and white, which resulted in many great wines - and consequently many counterfeits as...
1970
Northern SpainSpain
Marques de MurrietaRioja
Bodegas Franco-Españolas, Viña Sole, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1937
Franco-Españolas is a historic winery, founded in 1890, and was a leading player until the 1970s. Today they are focussed on restoring their prestige. 1937...
1937
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Bodegas Franco-EspañolasRioja
Marques de Murrieta, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1942
1942 was a very good vintage according to records, but unfortunately those records are of little value for white wines since the appellation authorities did...
1942
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Marques de MurrietaRioja
Bodegas Franco-Españolas, Viña Sole Tête de Cuvée, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1964
A selection from the best Viura vineyards in Rioja Media and Alta. 1964 is a benchmark vintage, at least for red wine. This white is...
1964
Northern SpainSpain
Bodegas Franco-EspañolasRioja
R López de Heredia, Blanco 6° Año, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1964

The mythical López de Heredia Viña Tondonia winery was created in 1877, and their white wines are now among the most sought-after in Rioja. This...
1964
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R López de HerediaRioja
CVNE, Monopole (Half Bottle), Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1971
CVNE is a pillar of Rioja. Current CEO Victor Urrutia is a fifth-generation descendant of the founders, who began its long history in 1879. This...
1971
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CVNERioja
R López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1981

A Viura-dominated blend from selected plots at Viña Tondonia in Rioja Alta, grown in a warm and dry vintage. This is very intense, with spicy...
1981
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R López de HerediaRioja
CVNE, Monopole, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1988
Monopole is the oldest wine trademark in Spain, dating back to 1915. It was intended as a straightforward wine to be drunk young, but this...
1988
Northern SpainSpain
CVNERioja
Marques de Murrieta, Ygay, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1956

Murrieta is, together with Riscal, the founder of the classic Rioja style and it's also, together with López de Heredia, the benchmark winery for old...
1956
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Marques de MurrietaRioja
Bodegas AGE, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1946
AGE was founded in 1881 and is now owned by Pernod-Ricard. 1946 was a mediocre vintage for reds, but excellent for whites. This has restrained,...
1946
Northern SpainSpain
Bodegas AGERioja
Bodegas Paternina, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1930

This is probably a Tempranillo-dominated blend from Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta, with a proportion of white grapes. It's quite developed, with slightly musty tones....
1930
Northern SpainSpain
Bodegas PaterninaRioja
Marques de Murrieta, Ygay, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1948

This vintage was deemed excellent by the authorities, who only took into account the red wines - it was actually too warm for the whites....
1948
Northern SpainSpain
Marques de MurrietaRioja
CVNE, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1970
This wine is quite developed, with a bright amber colour and intense mushroom notes. It has a particular balance in the mouth, with medium acidity...
1970
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La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 1986

La Rioja Alta abandoned production of the white Viña Ardanza in the late 1980s. This wine is amber coloured, and the palate is quite decadent,...
1986
Northern SpainSpain
La Rioja AltaRioja

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW is a Decanter contributor and joint Regional Chair for Spain at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2019 alongside Ferran Centelles. He has studied around the world, including Spain, France, USA and Germany. He holds a degree in agro-food engineering and a masters in viticulture and oenology among his qualifications. A columnist for magazines in Spain and Belgium, he works in four languages. He sits at the governing board of the Unión Española de Catadores (the Spanish wine tasters’ union), the board of the International Federation of Wine and Spirit Journalists and Writers, the wine committee of the Basque Culinary Centre, and acts as expert at the OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine). He is a VIA Certified Italian Wine Ambassador, a member of Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and has been awarded the Spanish Command Order of Agricultural Merit.