Albariño: Panel tasting results
A high-scoring tasting brought together an eclectic mix of wines, showing unexpected diversity in style, beyond the variety’s typical descriptors of peach, citrus and white flowers. Older examples showed its ageability, too.
Sarah Jane Evans MW, Pierre Mansour and Beth Willard tasted 137 wines, with 1 Exceptional, 5 Outstanding and 71 Highly recommended.
Albariño: Panel tasting scores
Exceptional 1
Outstanding 5
Highly recommended 71
Recommended 59
Commended 1
Fair 0
Poor 0
Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release vintages of still white wines made from 100% Albariño
Search this website for Rías Baixas Albariño reviews and you will find we did a panel tasting way back in 2016. It was already an established favourite on wine lists: the new face of Spanish white, peachy and unoaked. We talked then of the risk that global demand was turning Albariño into another Pinot Grigio.
The verdict then was that it was a tasting of two halves. Said Pierre Mansour at the time: there were ‘some truly great [wines] with real identity and class… no poor or faulty wines, but too many neutral ones’.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Albariño panel tasting
Fast forward to 2023 and we expected a similar outcome, using the classic Albariño vocabulary: peach, citrus, white flowers. To our delight, we found we were using a much broader range of descriptors: flint, mineral, saline, Atlantic, preserved lemon, elderflower, dried mango, savoury, serious… Altogether it was a really enjoyable tasting, full of promise for lovers of Atlantic whites. Seven years on, Mansour was delighted to declare: ‘The overall standard was very high.’
Our verdicts can be divided into three: quality, diversity, ageability. In terms of quality, the results speak for themselves. More than half of the wines scored 90 points or more. Six scored 95pts or more: each one a different style. Only one wine was faulty (corked, so not included in this coverage). However, the quality of these wines is reflected in their pricing. ‘Albariño is not a value wine,’ observed Mansour. We looked to recommend value wines but it was difficult. Of the 18 wines priced at £15 or under, only one scored 93pts, and the rest 91pts or less.
On diversity, Beth Willard confirmed that ‘clearly, Rías Baixas is not homogenous’. Gone are the uniform descriptors. Today the sub-zones, north to south, reveal their differences – from the seashell, saline notes of many (coastal) Salnés sub-zone wines to the ripeness of Condado do Tea – a little more inland and warmer, on the banks of the river Tea – and the distinct fennel character noted by Willard of the O Rosal sub-zone wines. Equally, the winemaking was diverse – but in a good way. While stainless steel dominates, more Albariño producers are using oak, but in small proportions or larger or older containers. The bonus is that in general the handling was sensitive. Willard was pleased to note that few producers were attempting to make a Sauvignon Blanc-style wine.
See all 137 Albariño wines from the panel tasting
As for ageability, two-thirds of the wines were from the latest 2022 vintage. We felt that many were too young and would have benefited from another six months in bottle. Notably, the majority of our Outstanding wines were older or much older. What this tasting resoundingly proved is that in the right place, and carefully handled, Albariño ages beautifully. The model is Pazo Señorans’ Selección de Añada, grown on xabre, the local weathered granite. The wine is unoaked and aged on its lees in stainless steel for 30 months. It was a pioneering wine, but is now joined by others, notably the Añada de Baladiña, with its 10 years in bottle after lees ageing.
The final verdict? Continue to enjoy your Rías Baixas Albariño young. However do also seek out the very individual small producers, such as Xosé Lois Sebio, working in the region with old and very old vines. Above all, do explore the glorious mature wines.
The best Albariño is a keeper, and one of Spain’s great wines.
Albariño: Panel tasting scores
The judges
Sarah Jane Evans MW is a Decanter contributing editor and Co-Chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards. Her latest book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain (£35 Infinite Ideas) is set for release in early 2024.
Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, and has been buying The Society’s Spanish wines since 2008. He is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain.
Beth Willard is involved in sourcing wines for both the on- and off-trade in the UK, with a particular focus on Eastern Europe and Spain. Formerly buying manager at Direct Wines, she is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain.
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Pazo Señorans, Selección de Añada Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2013
This is one of Rías Baixas’ most beautiful manorial estates, with glorious gardens. Marisol Bueno launched the winery with her husband in 1989, and was...
2013
Pazo Señorans
Lagar de Besada, Añada de Baladiña Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2011
María Sineiro and David Ballesteros started Lagar de Besada in 1988. They make several styles of Albariño from tiny parcels of land including two young...
2011
Lagar de Besada
Santiago Roma, Selección Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Described delightfully by the winery as its ‘prodigal son’. So it proved in our tasting, as this prodigal was the highest scoring wine from the...
2022
Santiago RomaVal do Salnés
Lagar de Besada, Baladiña Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Congratulations to the Lagar de Besada team. Producers may submit only two wines to a panel tasting and it’s not often that both wines score...
2022
Lagar de BesadaVal do Salnés
Xosé Lois Sebio, O Con Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2021
Xosé Lois Sebio makes a range of excitingly original wines across Rías Baixas, Ribeiro and Bierzo. The grapes for O Con come from a single...
2021
Xosé Lois Sebio
Pazo Barrantes, Gran Vino Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2020
The lovely Pazo Barrantes estate has been the home of the Creixell family since the 15th century. (They also own the Castillo Ygay estate in...
2020
Pazo BarrantesVal do Salnés
Bodegas La Caña, La Caña Navia Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2021
Bright citrus and pink pepper spice on the nose, with creamy vanilla aromas. Honeyed citrus, supple stone fruits and mouth watering freshness. Well-rounded oak gives...
2021
Bodegas La Caña
Mar de Frades, Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Expressive honeyed and rich nose with grassy notes. Mineral, stone and flinty flavours with excellent depth and crisp driving acidity. Remarkable what can be achieved...
2022
Mar de FradesVal do Salnés
Tomada de Castro, Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2021
Wonderfully perfumed with a fresh, leesy character and a hint of smoke. Tropical, mango, with mouthwatering acidity and fresh herbaceous notes. Elegant and stylish with...
2021
Tomada de CastroVal do Salnés
Pazo Barrantes, La Comtesse Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2018
Smoky oak, quince and citrus make an appealing combination on the nose. Youthful palate despite its years, showing lemon curd, patisserie and rich fruit conserve....
2018
Pazo BarrantesVal do Salnés
Maior de Mendoza, 3 Crianzas Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2019
Elegant with creamy, leesy aromas. Attractive saline notes add an element of minerality, with a crunchy green apple core. Mouthwatering, with delicate citrus fruits and...
2019
Maior de Mendoza
Mar de Frades, Finca Valinas Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2018
Stunning nose, surprisingly vibrant for its age. Fresh and energetic fruit showing lovely evolved character. Intense, persistent finish with a little minerality. Showing the longevity...
2018
Mar de FradesVal do Salnés
Monte Pío, Ledes Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2019
Lime citrus, herbaceous and very aromatic with hints of sea breeze. Delicate, but also very intense flavours of ripe, spicy peach and apricot on the...
2019
Monte PíoVal do Salnés
Granbazán, Don Alvaro de Bazán Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2020
A lovely green character: gooseberry and lime aromas with a touch of smoke and spice. Flinty and mineral, very elegant and poised, racy acidity that...
2020
GranbazánVal do Salnés
Attis, Lias Finas Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Elegant toasty notes on the nose with peachy, lemon aromas. The palate is quite intense with fresh mango and a lovely freshness. Sea air quality,...
2022
AttisVal do Salnés
Lagar de Costa, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Fresh and fragrant white flower and herb aromas. Crisp and promising, with very bright lemon notes, salinity, and a flinty, steely palate with a long...
2022
Lagar de Costa
Martín Códax, Vindel Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2020
Subtle smoky notes with gentle woody spice and apricot on the nose. Very intense on the palate with a creamy texture. Round and oily with...
2020
Martín CódaxVal do Salnés
Paco & Lola, Vintage Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2018
Lovely fresh thyme and lemon verbena with some green pea and lime aromas. The palate is concentrated with plump lemon, apricot, pineapple and mango. Wonderfully...
2018
Paco & LolaVal do Salnés
Angel Sequeiros, Lias Albariño, Condado do Tea, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2018
Complex, rounded, and honeyed wine. Bright, fresh, wet earth character on the with waxy lemon skin, white pepper and a delicate eucalypt note. Balanced and...
2018
Angel SequeirosCondado do Tea
Pazo Pondal, Leira Albariño, Condado do Tea, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Bright floral, youthful, with asparagus, green apple and juicy lime aromas. Tropical fruit, fresh and well balanced with some underlying flinty character. Honeyed, long and...
2022
Pazo PondalCondado do Tea
Altos de Torona, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Lovely nose, fragrant and leesy. Racy, zippy acidity with lemony, green apple crunch on the palate. Tropical fruit, grapefruit, and banana flavours linger with a...
2022
Altos de Torona
Santiago Ruiz, Rosa Ruiz Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
A serious, intense wine with subtle aromas of spice and apple on the nose. Palate blossoms with white peaches, lemon curd, green herbs, and vivid...
2022
Santiago Ruiz
Adega Eidos, Contraaparede Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2019
A very subtle and elegant wine on the nose, with delicate honey and smokey notes. Caramel apples, crisp fruit, and a broad textured finish. The...
2019
Adega EidosVal do Salnés
Attis, Nana Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2021
Toasty oak, creamy, honey and sweet fruit on the nose. Full, round, fleshy texture, the oak is very well-judged, the finish is full and very...
2021
AttisVal do Salnés
Bodegas Chaves, Cinco Islas Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
A perfumed style, with ripe stone fruit on the nose. Succulent, with lovely depth, rich yet controlled, balanced by fresh acidity and notes of minerality....
2022
Bodegas ChavesVal do Salnés
Entrecanales Domecq & Hijos, La Poda Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Smoke, flinty and very peppery. Bright and ripe on the palate, with succulent tropical notes of pineapple and mango. Mouthwatering and vibrant, with a juicy...
2022
Entrecanales Domecq & Hijos
Familia Torres, Pazo Torre Penelas Blanco Granito Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2019
Ripe and evolved fruit offers custard and apple tarte tatin flavours. A touch of pineapple on the finish with pink pepper spice. Rounded and well-integrated.
2019
Familia Torres
Fillaboa, Selección Finca Monte Alto Albariño, Condado do Tea, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2020
Creamy asparagus aromas with an attractive cheesy character from ageing. Silky texture with balanced acidity, and a touch of dried mango on the finish. Young...
2020
FillaboaCondado do Tea
Lagar de Cervera, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Floral, honeyed, creamy nose with hints of saltiness. Succulent on the palate, full of energy, juicy and lemon, green apple fruit. Layered with green herbs,...
2022
Lagar de Cervera
Maior de Mendoza, Sobre Lias Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Grassy, herbal aromas with discreet biscuity notes. Mineral and stony with attractive lemony fruit. Saline and grassy, with an underlying bold line of citrus acidity....
2022
Maior de Mendoza
Marqués de Vizhoja, Torre La Moreira Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2022
Ripe fresh apricot and honey aromas with delicate citrus fruit and succulent jasmine. A tropical character on the palate, with mango and a touch of...
2022
Marqués de Vizhoja
Notas Frutales de Albariño, Finca Garabelos Albariño, Condado do Tea, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2021
The nose is rich, like Condado, with ripe citrus fruits. Very brisk acidity with citrus-driven flavours and some toasty, smoky notes. The palate is long,...
2021
Notas Frutales de AlbariñoCondado do Tea
Palacio De Fefiñanes, III Año Albariño, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2020
Herbal, citrus aromas, open out to an exceptionally expressive palate. Herbaceous leafy quality, almond notes too, distinctive in style, bold and powerful. Confit greengages, lime...
2020
Palacio De FefiñanesVal do Salnés
Vides Singulares, 1694 La Diestral Albariño, Val do Miño, Spain, 2020
Some attractive oxidative notes, reminiscent of an older style of wine. Serious and intense with preserved lemon and baked apple underpinned by firm acidity. Textured,...
2020
Vides SingularesVal do Miño
