Alsace Riesling: panel tasting results
Showcasing the many and varied grands crus of this most complex of wine regions, this tasting reinforced the value of Alsace’s classification system.
Rebecca Palmer, Marcel Orford-Williams and Eric Zwiebel MS tasted 77 wines with 1 Exceptional, 4 Outstanding and 34 Highly Recommended.
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their dry grand cru Riesling wines from the latest vintage, with availability in the UK and US, and a maximum of three wines per producer and one wine per grand cru site
Alsace Riesling panel tasting scores
77 wines tasted
Exceptional 1
Outstanding 4
Highly recommended 34
Recommended 32
Commended 2
Fair 2
Poor 1
Faulty 1
Riesling is not merely the ‘the King among grape varieties’. It is also the terroir wine par excellence. Alsace has a vast mosaic of sites, each with its unique combination of aspect, altitude and soils. And this tasting demonstrated the extraordinary diversity, and quality, of Riesling in Alsace, from legendary estates as well as lesser-known names.
It also provided a fascinating test-case of Alsace’s classification system as it stands today.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Alsace Riesling wines
The tasting featured 33 of Alsace’s 55 designated grands crus, including the largest, Schlossberg (80.3ha), which fielded several stellar wines, and the smallest, Kanzlerberg (3.23ha), whose single contender was one of the stars of the entire tasting.
Arguably France’s most complex region from a terroir perspective, navigating Alsace’s wines is not straightforward. Spanning 95km from north to south, its vineyards comprise countless different slopes and aspects with a mind-boggling range of soils, from Jurassic limestones and marls to Devonian slates and metamorphic schist; granites, greywackes and gneiss.
This breadth and complexity was why a ranking system was so desperately needed. Consumers would otherwise struggle to make sense of such vastness and diversity.
Unlike other major French wine regions, Alsace only implemented a classification system in 1983. Perhaps unsurprisingly it was immediately challenged and/or vilified.
Questions were raised about the inclusion, or exclusion, of certain sites. Criticisms were made about a lack of rigour in production regulations. Some argued it was ‘not fit for purpose’, criticising it for only acknowledging ‘grands crus’ and offering no other refinements.
Arguably Alsace would have been better served by a multi-tiered approach such as in the Burgundian model, with village, premier cru and grand cru sites bringing more nuance.
However, revisions have since been made and the Alsace grand cru classification is starting to provide one set of signposts for consumers to select wines with more confidence.
See tasting notes and scores for all of the Alsace Riesling wines tasted
As Marcel Orford-Williams commented: ‘This tasting proved the grand cru appellation is worth seeking out. Riesling has the most remarkable ability to reflect terroir and it was good to see this on the day, with outstanding examples coming from much of the geological spectrum that exists in Alsace.’
Another signpost that many consumers use is, of course, vintage. And again this tasting provided meaningful indicators. There were six vintages represented within the line-up: 2019 (28 wines), 2018 (14) and 2017 (24) are all viewed as great vintages, and these higher scoring wines all embodied the distinctive personalities of each vintage.
The 2019s typically displayed a combination of perfume and richness offset by thrilling acidities; the result of the hot, dry year where everything was concentrated, both the fruit and the acids; the wines have a delicious energy.
The 2018s were expressive, fragrant and accessible, acidities perhaps a little softer from this warm, generous vintage. By contrast, 2017 was a low-yielding vintage, due to the effects of a late spring frost, compounded by the hot summer. The resulting wines are complex and concentrated, balanced by refreshing acids.
The top-scoring wine hails from the stellar 2015 vintage, held by many to be the best in Alsace since the legendary 1990.
Finally, a note on viticulture: of the 39 wines that scored 90 or above in this tasting, 23 were certified organic, biodynamic or both. Yet another reason to seek these wines out.
Top-scoring wines from the Alsace Riesling tasting
The judges
Rebecca Palmer is associate director and buyer for London-based merchant Corney & Barrow, heading up a team that covers all world regions except Bordeaux. A DWWA judge, she previously worked at Bibendum and for Laithwaites as a buyer.
Marcel Orford-Williams is the DWWA Regional Chair for Alsace. Having joined The Wine Society’s buying department in 1986, he is currently buyer for its Rhône, southern and regional French wines as well as Germany.
Eric Zwiebel MS is executive head sommelier at Summer Lodge Hotel in Dorset and for the Red Carnation hotel group. Born in Alsace, he moved to London and achieved his Master Sommelier qualification in 2001, and was named Best Sommelier in the UK in 2004.
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Weinbach, Grand Cru Schlossberg, Alsace, France, 2019
Established as a winery in 1612 by Capuchin friars, Domaine Weinbach takes its name from the little stream which runs through the property, at the...
2019
WeinbachGrand Cru Schlossberg
Josmeyer, Grand Cru Hengst, Alsace, France, 2015
Five generations of the Meyer family have run the business, with Céline and Isabelle Meyer now being in charge of the management and vinification respectively....
2015
JosmeyerGrand Cru Hengst
Domaine Kirrenbourg, K, Grand Cru Schlossberg, Alsace, France, 2019
Another grand cru expression from Kirrenbourg, the K Riesling is sourced from 20-year-old vines planted on the granitic soils of the hill, in the lieu-dit...
2019
Domaine KirrenbourgGrand Cru Schlossberg
Domaine Kirrenbourg, Grand Cru Brand, Alsace, France, 2018
The Schaetzel family started growing vines in 1930, and the estate has been producing organically and biodynamically since 1998. In 2015, production was taken over...
2018
Domaine KirrenbourgGrand Cru Brand
Domaine Loew, Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergbieten, Alsace, France, 2018
Domaine Loew is a project of Etienne and Caroline Loew, whose ancestors were established in the region by the 18th century. In 1996, Etienne took...
2018
Domaine LoewGrand Cru Altenberg de Bergbieten
Kuentz-Bas, Trois Chateaux, Grand Cru Pfersigberg, Alsace, France, 2018
Smoky nose with expressive notes of roses, citrus crackly minerals and bruised apple. Nice concentration ending in a saline finish.
2018
Kuentz-BasGrand Cru Pfersigberg
Gustave Lorentz, Grand Cru Kanzlerberg, Alsace, France, 2017
Complex aromas of dried flowers, manuka honey, lemon, pineapple and plump stone fruit. Very juicy on the palate with a tangy acidity and a very...
2017
Gustave LorentzGrand Cru Kanzlerberg
Albert Boxler, Grand Cru Brand, Alsace, France, 2019
Subtle nose displaying scents of roses, yellow plums, grapefruit and stone fruit. Attractive on the palate with a lot of weight and a zesty acidity.
2019
Albert BoxlerGrand Cru Brand
Kuentz-Bas, Trois Chateaux, Grand Cru Eichberg, Alsace, France, 2018
Fragrant aromatics with a peachy character, elderflower, green pear and hints of nettles. Rounded and juicy with a lively freshness, very persistent.
2018
Kuentz-BasGrand Cru Eichberg
Trimbach, Grand Cru Geisberg, Alsace, France, 2017
Harmonious nose of white fruit, citrus, rose petals, ginger and mineral undertones. Steely on the mouth, showing tension and minerality and a complex long finish.
2017
TrimbachGrand Cru Geisberg
Gresser, Grand Cru Wiebelsberg, Alsace, France, 2017
Generous nose of stone fruit, roses, anise, ginger and green asparagus. Quite spicy and fresh in the mouth, with a vibrant acidity and savoury long...
2017
GresserGrand Cru Wiebelsberg
Henry Fuchs, Grand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé, Alsace, France, 2018
Expressive nose displaying notes of fresh citrus, flowers, white pepper and hints of yeasty undertones. Deep and concentrated, balanced by a tangy acidity.
2018
Henry FuchsGrand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé
Albert Boxler, Grand Cru Sommerberg, Alsace, France, 2019
Exotic aromas of melon, tangy fruit and some smoky notes. Attractive on the palate with hints of flowers and a rich finish.
2019
Albert BoxlerGrand Cru Sommerberg
Josmeyer, Grand Cru Hengst, Alsace, France, 2017
Characterful nose displaying scents of salted lemon, dried flowers, black pepper and gingery nuances. Honeyed on the palate with a lactic touch and some personality.
2017
JosmeyerGrand Cru Hengst
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils, Grand Cru Schoenenbourg, Alsace, France, 2018
Interesting and complex nose of fine fruit with savoury notes and green olive undertones. Rich and long with a vibrant acidity, graceful and young.
2018
Domaine Trapet Père & FilsGrand Cru Schoenenbourg
Louis Sipp, Grand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé, Alsace, France, 2017
A lot of typicity on the nose with notes of ripe pear, rose petals and mineral notes. Very concentrated fruit on the palate with a...
2017
Louis SippGrand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé
Schoffit, Clos St-Théobald, Grand Cru Rangen, Alsace, France, 2019
Lifted nose of yellow apples and ripe exotic fruit. Quite young with a lovely oily texture, smooth yet powerful.
2019
SchoffitGrand Cru Rangen
Domaine Jean-Marc Bernhard, Grand Cru Wineck-Schlossberg, Alsace, France, 2019
Charming aromas of rose petals, citrus, white apricots and ginger. It is silky on the palate with a lovely fruit weight and fresh acidity. Rounded...
2019
Domaine Jean-Marc BernhardGrand Cru Wineck-Schlossberg
Paul Ginglinger, Grand Cru Pfersigberg, Alsace, France, 2019
Fruity nose of yellow apple, pear and rich peaches. Silky on the palate with a mouth-cleansing lively acidity. Quite persistent.
2019
Paul GinglingerGrand Cru Pfersigberg
Meyer-Fonné, Grand Cru Wineck-Schlossberg, Alsace, France, 2019
Expressive nose showing succulent aromas of lychees, honeyed papaya, yellow apples and sweet stone fruit. Off-dry on the palate, rich yet balanced with a persistent...
2019
Meyer-FonnéGrand Cru Wineck-Schlossberg
Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss, Grand Cru Kastelberg, Alsace, France, 2019
Hoppy nose with complex notes of orange peel, rhubarb and touches of ginger. Succulent with a lovely balance provided by a tangy acidity.
2019
Domaine Marc KreydenweissGrand Cru Kastelberg
Julien Schaal, Volcanique, Grand Cru Rangen, Alsace, France, 2020
Delicate and perfumed aromas of white flowers with peachy notes. Light and fresh on the palate with a long mineral finish.
2020
Julien SchaalGrand Cru Rangen
Gresser, Grand Cru Kastelberg, Alsace, France, 2018
Restrained nose with aromas of yellow apple, pear and peach. Silky-textured mouthfeel, ripe flavours with a dry mineral finish.
2018
GresserGrand Cru Kastelberg
Jean Becker, Grand Cru Froehn, Alsace, France, 2017
Bright citrus notes of zesty orange, spice and ginger. Very refreshing, with lots of energy and a lengthy mineral finish.
2017
Jean BeckerGrand Cru Froehn
Josmeyer, Grand Cru Brand, Alsace, France, 2018
Lovely notes of candied mango, lychee, petrol and dried flowers. Energetic on the palate with a tangy acidity and delicate finish.
2018
JosmeyerGrand Cru Brand
Trimbach, Grand Cru Mandelberg, Alsace, France, 2017
Perfumed and expansive nose with exotic fruit, yellow apple, pear and quince aromas. Powerful and long with a fresh mineral finish.
2017
TrimbachGrand Cru Mandelberg
Vignerons de Pfaffenheim, Pfaff, Grand Cru Goldert, Alsace, France, 2020
Lemony nose with melon and yellow apple notes and subtle curry undertones. Quite young and refreshing, appealing.
2020
Vignerons de PfaffenheimGrand Cru Goldert
Véronique & Thomas Muré, Clos St Landelin, Grand Cru Vorbourg, Alsace, France, 2018
Slightly earthy nose with notes of dried straw and minerality. Mouth-filling and stylish with a refreshing savoury finish.
2018
Véronique & Thomas MuréGrand Cru Vorbourg
Louis Sipp, Grand Cru Osterberg, Alsace, France, 2017
Exotic aromas of lychees with ginger undertones. Steely on the palate with tension and energy. Pithy finish.
2017
Louis SippGrand Cru Osterberg
Schlumberger, Grand Cru Saering, Alsace, France, 2017
Spicy nose with perfumed rose petal, lychee and passion fruit nuances. Concentrated and powerful in the mouth, quite ambitious.
2017
SchlumbergerGrand Cru Saering
Maurice Schoech, Grand Cru Furstentum, Alsace, France, 2019
Expressive aromas of quince and tropical fruit. Very pure fruit expression with a touch of sweetness balancing the acidity.
2019
Maurice SchoechGrand Cru Furstentum
Bott-Geyl, Grand Cru Schoenenbourg, Alsace, France, 2017
Spicy nose with orange zest notes seasoned by gingery undertones. Rich and round with a lively acidity and complex finish.
2017
Bott-GeylGrand Cru Schoenenbourg
Jean Biecher, Grand Cru Rosacker, Alsace, France, 2020
Fragrant nose of rose petal, lemon peel and mineral undertones. Crisp and zesty on the palate, well-balanced.
2020
Jean BiecherGrand Cru Rosacker
Domaine Jean-Marc Bernhard, Grand Cru Schlossberg, Alsace, France, 2017
Expressive nose with grapey aromas, grapefruit, poached pear and baked apple. Attractive balance in the mouth with a stony finish.
2017
Domaine Jean-Marc BernhardGrand Cru Schlossberg
Charles Baur, Grand Cru Brand, Alsace, France, 2017
Limey nose with perfumed elderflower, minty orange and petrol notes. Appealing fruit with a dry saline finish.
2017
Charles BaurGrand Cru Brand
Gresser, Grand Cru Moenchberg, Alsace, France, 2017
Sweet aromas of quince with spicy notes and hints of straw. Ripe and rounded with some mineral character.
2017
GresserGrand Cru Moenchberg
Zind-Humbrecht, Clos St Urbain, Grand Cru Rangen, Alsace, France, 2019
Intense aromas of perfumed apricots, frangipane and savoury notes. Silty texture on the palate with a long finish.
2019
Zind-HumbrechtGrand Cru Rangen
Albert Mann, Grand Cru Schlossberg, Alsace, France, 2019
Fresh nose of lime zest, dry hay and white peaches. Rounded on the palate, nicely-balanced, very attractive and refreshing.
2019
Albert MannGrand Cru Schlossberg
