Alto Piemonte revival plus 12 wines to try

Lorella Zoppis Antoniolo is an energetic producer based in Gattinara, where she owns - among others - the two outstanding vineyards of San Francesco and Osso San Grato. The latter is an old, steep vineyard with an almost full south exposure. Here, she picks Nebbiolo grapes which are handled with minimal intervention in the winery. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete is followed by natural malolactic fermentation in spring, then three years in big oak vessels. Her 2015 is from a warm vintage yet shows good balance. Osso San Grato is more austere compared to San Francesco, and this is built to last: its concentration and complexity are sumptuous. Still rugged now, it doesn't come across as over-extracted. The nose is rich with tar and dark wild berries, with liquorice root, dried cherry and camphor depth. A rhubarb flavour with plenty of sucrosity paints the picture on the palate, with austere yet ripe tannins and almost zesty acidity.

2018 is the first vintage completely handled by Roberto Conterno at Nervi winery following the acquisition of the estate. It's also the first vintage with his son Gabriele and the first to feature the new label. It will be released this October. The vintage was fresh after the dry 2017 and 2016 vintages, 'better than in Langhe,' said Roberto Conterno, 'but we did a severe green harvest, cutting 50 to 60% of the clusters.' Molsino vineyard at 400 metres is windy and sunny. Bright ruby in the glass, this preview is restrained, with citrus, rose bud, watermelon and tar aromas followed by darker fruit flavours such as dried cherry. A full-bodied and tight-knit structure between fruit and crisp acidity is supported by the broad, dense palate, with firm yet ripe, crunchy tannins on the finish. Overall it's marked by an amazing long, savoury character.

With 55 hectares of vines, Travaglini is the biggest producer in Gattinara and is still expanding. The Nebbiolo for this Riserva is fermented in stainless steel tanks then macerated for 18 days (up to five days longer than the standard Gattinara). It's aged for 40 months in big oak vessels and for another 10 months in bottle. The 2015 is more elegant than powerful, with leafy lightness, whiffs of cacao in depth, and fruit ranging from strawberry to blood orange. On the palate it is full bodied and super-classic, with a tasty attack of tar and chocolate followed by stratified wild strawberry melded with crisp acid and firm, dusty yet ripe tannins. Great integration on the finish.

Macerated for 28 days without the typical submerged cap employed for Nebbiolo, this Gattinara is then aged for 40 months in tonneaux, partly new. Restrained, leafy and citrussy, it has a Parma violet and cinnamon sweetness. The palate is dominated by floral and strawberry flavours woven with refined tannins and cutting acidity. Full and opulently dense.

Torraccia del Piantavigna is an elegant Gattinara which perfectly represents the elegance of Nebbiolo from Alto Piemonte. The grapes come from the Gerbidoni and Lurghe vineyards within the appellation, following a severe selection. The wine is aged in both French and Slovenian oak, the 2016 vintage maturing for 36 months. Bright ruby, it shines for the delicacy of its earthy strawberry and hints of pot-pourri, blood orange and bitter citrus. Stylish on the palate, it combines dried cherry and citrus flavours with silky, dense tannins, crisp acidity and great savouriness, leading to a liquorice finish.

Completely based on porfidio soil, this 150-year-old estate covers 5.5 hectares in Bramaterra. The vines are an average 50 years of age. The Martinazzi vineyard faces south over a natural amphitheatre. The blend here is 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 7% Vespolina and 3% Uva Rara (the latter imparting a rounder character and less austere acidity). The wine is dense ruby in the glass, with earthy liquorice notes, violet, dark chocolate, bergamot and black pepper, almost peaty in character. The tannins are slightly sticky on the finish, more austere than 2015 yet ripe, with well integrated acidity.

Silvia Barbaglia represents one of the best producers of the new generation in Boca. Her wine is a small jewel of elegance, which is the signature of Boca wines due the altitude, cool climate and blend: here, Nebbiolo is supported by 20% Vespolina. The 2016 vintage was harvested on 20 October, 'which is the right time,' Silvia said, 'compared to the 2017 vintage which we harvested in September'. The wine is fermented spontaneously with its own yeast, then aged in big oak casks for 24 months plus a further 12 months in bottle. The attack is totally focused on the freshness of red fruits, with earthy tones and balsamic notes. A pink grapefruit flavour marks the quite full-bodied palate (and Boca!) supported by firm, dusty tannins and almost zesty acidity.

Marco and Matteo Garrone are two talented brothers passionate about Prünent, the local name for the Nebbiolo clone grown in the Ossola Valley. They farm only old vines (over 40 years old) planted on their own rootstocks. They follow the light and intoxicatingly elegant character of this grape, here in the northwestern wedge of Italy. Fermented in stainless steel then aged in big oak vessels for 12 months, it's a very pale ruby colour with liquorice, tar and restrained pomegranate accompanied by leafy and jasmine notes. It's quite dense on the palate with elegant, silky tannins and lifted acidity. It lacks a bit of savoury character, showing sucrosity at present, but will increase in complexity with age. Around 8,000 bottles produced.

Fara is not one of the 'vini delle rocce' ('wines from stone') within Alto Piemonte and it was at risk of being swallowed by its biggest neighbour, Ghemme. Instead, wines such as this Barton from Boniperti are remarkably delicious. Extremely pale ruby in colour, it has an intense green pepper and grapefruit aroma with an almost unripe peach flavour. It develops its satisfying near-term drinking with a lean body yet super-refined palate, light, silky tannins and zesty acidity. Doesn’t lack glycerol. Delicious.

Massimo Clerico's Lessona is a 100% Nebbiolo full of depth and elegance. The attack is focused on dried flowers, forest floor and wild strawberry aroma and flavour. It flows over the palate with silky tannins, zesty high acidity, sucrosity and a tight finish, clean and savoury. The tension and filigreed complexity are the main qualities of this fine Riserva.

Sometimes in the wines from Tenute Sella, both Bramaterra and Lessona, the cool fermentation (24°C) in stainless steel tanks enhances the fruit definition, giving a peachy aroma and flavour, entrusting to the oak additional complexity. Always focused on elegance, San Sebastiano allo Zoppo's selection of Lessona in the 2012 vintage is vibrant in its peachy character, with Pinot-like complexity, a touch of balsamic tones and a light yet elegant and refreshing palate.

There is a complete profile of complexity here, with layers of liquorice, strawberry and touches of tar and peach. Savoury on the palate, Vigna Ronco Maso is ripe and velvety in the texture, with high refreshing acidity and a good finish. A great result in a dry vintage such as 2017, and hard to spit out during the tasting!