Australian Pinot Noir: 25 exciting wines to try
With the popularity of lighter-style red wines showing no signs of abating, it might be time to swap your Aussie Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon for a Pinot Noir. Tina Gellie picks out 25 cool-climate Australian Pinot Noirs to try.
There’s 4,948ha of Pinot Noir across Australia (source: Wine Australia 2022), which represents just 3.7% of the total area under vine.
It might be the fourth most planted red variety, well behind Merlot with about 8,500ha, but truly small fry when you consider the country has five times as many plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, and a whopping eight times as many for Shiraz.
But with the global trend for lighter-style reds showing no signs of abating, this is good news for the country’s Pinot Noir producers. Particularly as even the most expensive represent a value alternative to Burgundy as well as premium-priced examples from neighbouring New Zealand.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 25 exciting Australian Pinot Noir wines
The warm inland regions of the Riverland, Riverina and Murray Darling are responsible for a third of the national Pinot Noir crush, mainly for bulk wines, but it’s a select few cool-climate areas that provide the most excitement.
Tasmania (with 10% of the national Pinot Noir crush) and the Adelaide Hills in South Australia (7%) lead the charge, thanks to making both still and traditional method sparkling wines. While in Victoria it is the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula which arguably produce Australia’s most famous Pinot Noirs.
Depending on the region, wines range from light and lean in cold Tasmania, becoming more medium-bodied and richer in the warmer parts of the Adelaide Hills, but all share the variety’s classic cherry-driven aromas and flavours.
As in New Zealand, there is a trend towards more use of whole bunches in the fermentation, and producers are often looking to older and larger-format oak vessels for maturation, as well as concrete eggs.
Other innovations and trends – as well as sustainability practices and the impact of climate change – will be on the agenda at the biennial Pinot Noir Celebration Australia, held over 10-11 February in the Mornington Peninsula.
Ahead of this, here are 25 Pinot Noirs from the Australia Trade Tasting in London that showcase the elegance and affordability on offer from across the country.
Australian Pinot Noir: 25 wines to try
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Yabby Lake, Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2021
From Yarra Valley's Pinot Noir maestro Tom Carson, this is a stellar example of the vibrancy of 2021: concentrated yet elegant, with cracking acidity. It...
2021
Yabby LakeMornington Peninsula
Bass Phillip, Estate Pinot Noir, Gippsland, Victoria, Australia, 2019
Australia's most famous – and expensive – Pinot Noir estate (the 2019 Reserve will set you back about £900/bottle) was recently bought by Burgundy's Jean-Marie...
2019
Bass PhillipGippsland
Tapanappa, Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia, Australia, 2021
I recently tasted this cool vintage, plus the contrastingly warm 2014 (delicious drinking now) with Brian and Ann Croser, along with their daughter Lucy and...
2021
TapanappaFleurieu Peninsula
Ten Minutes By Tractor, Coolart Road Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2019
Martin Spedding makes four single-vineyard wines, wth Coolart Road always the biggest, boldest and most darkly fruited. Grippy, textured tannins and a firm acid line...
2019
Ten Minutes By TractorMornington Peninsula
The Story, R Lane Vintners Pinot Noir, Henty, Victoria, Australia, 2017
An explosion of exotic smoky incense and tarmac, presumably from the volcanic soils. An unusual and contemplative Pinot, awash with wet stone minerals, seaspray and...
2017
The StoryHenty
Ashton Hills, Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills, Piccadilly Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2021
Lifted cherryade and blossom aroma – light and delicate – precedes a wilder, stemmy, sour cherry tang alongside pomegranate and forest floor notes. Gorgeous purity...
2021
Ashton HillsAdelaide Hills
Ocean Eight, Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2018
From Mike Aylward, this is a a beautiful wine that balances power and poise, with its focused beam of tangy acidity which illuminates blackforest gateau-like...
2018
Ocean EightMornington Peninsula
Paringa Estate, Peninsula Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2021
Lindsay McCall is one of the region's pioneers, and his wines are exemplars of the Mornington style. This is his entry-level Pinot, made from estate...
2021
Paringa EstateMornington Peninsula
Soumah, Hexham Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2021
Part of the single-vineyard series, this has admirable concentration and depth with more dark (black cherry and mulberry) rather than red fruits, as well as...
2021
SoumahYarra Valley
Ten Minutes By Tractor, 10X Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2021
Practically a Coolart Road single-vineyard wine with just 5% Wallis fruit blended in. It's a wonderfully pure expression of ripe black cherry and raspberry fruit...
2021
Ten Minutes By TractorMornington Peninsula
Ten Minutes By Tractor, Estate Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2018
This estate Pinot is now split into the Up the Hill and Down the Hill cuvées, but in this vintage was a barrel selection of...
2018
Ten Minutes By TractorMornington Peninsula
Yabby Lake, Red Claw Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2020
Yabby Lake's well-priced second label might be for approachable drinking, but it is still a serious, focused wine. It's quite high toned, with soused cherries...
2020
Yabby LakeMornington Peninsula
Ben Haines, Colour Block Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2021
Colour Block sits above Ben Haines' popular Yarra Valley range, and showcases fruit from the Steels Creek Vineyard. It's an ethereal style of Pinot, but...
2021
Ben HainesYarra Valley
Dalrymple, Estate Pinot Noir, Pipers River, Tasmania, Australia, 2020
Lovely stony minerality and tangy rhubarb acidity really lift the earthy, almost festively spiced dark fruit aromas and flavours of this wine. Quite a fluid,...
2020
DalrymplePipers River
Distant Noises, Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2019
91
The personal project of Tom Carson of the Mornington Peninsula's Yabby Lake (impressive pedigree there), who – since he's achieved everything else – has set about making a premium Pinot at an accessible price. This is certainly that: crunchy, bright raspberry pip, red cherry and lifted rose and fennel notes.
2019
Distant NoisesYarra Valley
Payten & Jones, Valley Vignerons Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2020
A juicy, perfumed, lighter-styled Pinot which sees some whole-bunch fermentation and carbonic maceration for bright sappiness of red cherry, savoury plum and redcurrant. There's a...
2020
Payten & JonesYarra Valley
Rob Dolan, White Label Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2019
While the winery isn't in Yarra proper all the grapes come from the noted vineyards across the region – this one manly from Willow Lake....
2019
Rob DolanYarra Valley
The Story, Port Campbell Pinot Noir, Grampians, Victoria, Australia, 2017
Growing grapes is a hard, expensive game, so this is the last Pinot Noir to be made from this tiny vineyard (Newton's Ridge), which has...
2017
The StoryGrampians
Dawson James, Pinot Noir, Tasmania, Australia, 2018
The 30-year-old vineyard source for this wine gives admirable intensity to its lithe frame. Creamy mocha new oak tones coat the savoury red plum peppery...
2018
Dawson James
Handpicked Wines, Collection Pinot Noir, Tasmania, Australia, 2019
The Collection range houses Handpicked's premium wines, this one from vineyards in Tamar and Coal River. The 30% new wood gives a sweet vanilla sheen...
2019
Handpicked Wines
Heirloom, Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2021
A well-priced, modern Pinot Noir that has lots of sappy summer pudding fruits and refreshing acidity that lifts the mid-bodied palate. Perhaps a little more...
2021
HeirloomAdelaide Hills
Kooyong, Massale Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2021
Very pale and delicate, this is a whisper of a Pinot Noir compared to the bold concentration of some, riding on its zippy raspberry acidity....
2021
KooyongMornington Peninsula
Larry Cherubino, Laissez Faire Foudre Pinot Noir, Pemberton, Western Australia, Australia, 2020
Western Australia is not known for Pinot, but a handful of producers – particularly in Pemberton and Great Southern – are worth seeking out. For...
2020
Larry CherubinoPemberton
Soumah, D'Soumah Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2021
This entry-level wine (a blend of estate and purchased fruit) shows impressive density in this vintage, supported by time in new oak barrels. It has...
2021
SoumahYarra Valley
Yering Station, Village Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2021
The first vintage from Brendan Hawker, returning as head winemaker. It's a juicy, cherry-driven, well-priced Pinot Noir that's not particularly complex but easy to like....
2021
Yering StationYarra Valley
