Barbaresco 2016 & Riserva 2014: Latest releases

Barbaresco 2016

Very warm weather in early September and October fully ripened the grapes, which remained healthy. Structured, balanced wines of finesse and freshness. Worth waiting for.

5/5

After a mild and mostly dry winter, the spring of 2016 was rainier but cool temperatures kept disease at bay.

It also slowed down the maturation cycle, and moderate summer temperatures didn’t allow the vines to speed up their growth. September and early October were warm and dry and enabled the Nebbiolo grapes to ripen fully.Overall it was a cooler summer than in 2015, and while the grapes did not lack ripeness, they could be picked in perfect conditions. There was more acidity than in 2015 so the wines are structured and balanced, with lower alcohol than the previous vintage.

Anna Lisa Nada of the Ada Nada estate summarised: ‘There was sufficient rain to keep the vines balanced and healthy. Because there was no extreme heat, there was no pressure to harvest early and picking the grapes took place in fine weather, resulting in elegant wines.’

There’s an invigorating freshness to the 2016 Barbarescos. They are not massive or overbearing but they have an intensity and verve reminiscent of 2010 in the best cases. And while the 2016s may not have the weight of the 2015s, they show more finesse.

The wines are quite open now, but it’s possible they will close up after a year or two in bottle. They may require some patience but they will be worth waiting for.

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Barbaresco 2016 tasting notes

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Barbaresco 2014 Riserva tasting notes

Barbaresco 2014 Riservas

A fine September saved the vintage, producing light but elegant wines. Good examples of 2014 Riservas are thin on the ground.

4/5

If the summer was splendid in 2016, that was definitely not the case in 2014. Steady rain in late July and August stressed not only vines but growers, as they had to combat mildew and other maladies, and good ventilation of the bunches was crucial.

In Barolo some producers such as Cavallotto declassified all their Barolos to Langhe Nebbiolo, however Barbaresco fared much better.

There was some hail in Barolo, but none in Barbaresco, and the rainfall was lighter. Amazingly, given the short distance between the two regions, there was little rain from mid-August, whereas many Barolo sites were drenched.

The second half of September was sunny with cool nights, so those with patience could harvest ripe grapes. The result was a set of relatively light but elegant wines, especially from the top sites with the best expositions and drainage. Yields were close to normal, whereas Barolo suffered heavier losses after the difficult spring and flowering.

Although 2014 has probably been underestimated overall, it was not an ideal candidate for Riserva wines. Wineries such as the Produttori del Barbaresco delivered a fine set of wines – but it specialises in Riservas.

In general, good examples are thin on the ground. There’s a lack of flesh in the 2014s, and that’s not going to be enhanced by prolonged ageing – with just a few exceptions.

Equally important, given the relative lightness of the vintage, many winemakers did not want to skim off their best and ripest grapes for separate Riserva bottlings that might have reduced the quality of their regular Barbarescos.

Stephen’s top Barbaresco 2016 and Barbaresco Riserva 2014 wines:

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