Barolo 2016 ‘classico’ late releases tasted

This legendary Barolo has traditionally been a blend of the estate’s plots in Canubbi, Ruè, Rocche dell’Annunziata and San Lorenzo. In 2015, the latter was pulled out and prepared for replanting. Coincidentally, in the same year, owners of a small, well-exposed Nebbiolo parcel neighbouring Mascarello’s Dolcetto holdings in Monrobiolo di Bussia offered it for rent, essentially making up the shortfall. The 2016 is so effortlessly seamless it is almost a shame to tease apart. Understated in its beauty, the nose slowly doles out successive fragrances of rose, raspberry, white pepper and rosehip. Expanding graciously across the palate, it distributes velvety, finely powdered tannins that are still compact and will take years to dissolve. But it is the underlying vibrant energy that drives this wine. Hints of blood orange and lavender linger on finish.

Comparing 2016 with 2015, Marta Rinaldi says that the 2016s are darker with more tannins and acidity. Ripeness was gradual, and the estate started picking Nebbiolo mid-October - 10 days later than in 2015. The Tre Tine, which brings together Ravera, Cannubi San Lorenzo and Le Coste, is definitely a more substantial wine than its 2015 counterpart but is ultimately still brilliantly light on its feet. It boasts very fine tannins, lots of energy and charmingly nervous acidity. Autumn leaves, forest berries, floral and mint nuances lace the palate and echo decisively on the long finish.

Produced since 1974, Enrico VI comes exclusively from the estate’s 2.2ha parcel in Villero. Reference to this highly regarded MGA is left off the label in favour of the name the wine has long been known by. The 2016 is strikingly fragrant, offering inviting scents of dried leaves, pressed flower, liquorice and raspberry. There is lovely purity here and an effortless balance of elegance with power. The palate is laced with savoury, mineral, stony notes framed by fine-grained, enduring tannins. This promises much satisfaction for years to come.

Fratelli Alessandria was established in 1870 but traces its roots as a winemaking estate back even further to 1830, making it one of the oldest in the zone. The estate's classic Barolo is dominated by the family’s holdings in Verduno’s lesser-known crus. It is a limpid, exquisite expression characterised by clarity and brightness. Flavours of black raspberry and orange are tinged with spice and underpinned by succulent acidity. The texture is elegant and chalky, culminating in a firm grip.

The Novello township has gained renown largely thanks to the Elvio Cogno estate which counts 11.5 of its 15 hectares in the cru of Ravera. Cascina Nuova is the most accessible of the property’s four Baroli, assembling fruit from a 1.5ha site of young plantings. The nose radiates prettiness: strawberry and raspberry underpin dewy rose, lilac and anise. Plump, succulent fruit remains buoyant and is gracefully buttressed by fine yet persistent structure. Zesty orange flavours refresh the finish.

As pleased as Azelia’s proprietor Luigi Scavino is with 2016, he doesn’t consider it a classic vintage due to its relatively accessible character. Indeed, the tannins here are smooth and round on the entry, though they layer up with a fine, sandy texture and cling to the finish. Racy, linear acidity makes for a beguiling juxtaposition. Throughout, anise, sage and eucalyptus accent pretty woodland berries. This brings together seven crus with the backbone coming from Cerretta and Broglio in Serralunga d’Alba.

While this offering does not reference a specific cru within Barolo, it is made from younger vines within Falletto (approximately 25 years of age) as well as those found on the southwest edge just outside Falletto’s confines. The nose expresses a captivating juxtaposition of rose, iron and scorched earth, while dense tannins clench down on the palate and need some time to relax their grip. This doesn’t manage its large frame quite as deftly as the Falletto but will satisfy those seeking a robust, rigorously structured Barolo.

Located directly in the village of Serralunga d’Alba, the Massolino estate blends its classic Barolo from five diverse plots throughout the township as well as one in the neighbouring Castiglione Falletto. A fascinating mix of tar, wild broom, exotic spice and irony notes weave through this wine from start to finish. Assertive, ripe tannins wrap around palate which is full and concentrated yet well-proportioned. There is superb underlying juiciness here.

Long established in the area of Dogliani, Pecchenino is known for first-rate Dolcetto. Holdings in Barolo are more recent and include vineyards in Bussia, Le Coste di Monforte and Ravera di Monforte - San Giuseppe blends fruit from all three for this wine. After a little coaxing, bright red fruits mingle with orange, rose and mushroom. Polished, silky tannins provide effortless support to pristine ripe fruit. This is vibrant throughout with a lingering strawberry finish, and while the structure is already approachable, its complexities will become more prominent with time in the bottle.

Enrico Rivetto draws upon his estate vineyards in the surrounding crus of San Bernardo, Serra and Manocino for this interpretation of the Serralunga d’Alba area. At an average altitude of 350 metres, all three face east, ripening in the mild morning sun. The 2016 is currently restrained, hinting subtly at fennel, sage and wildflowers. Full and expansive, the palate leans to earth and mineral tones on a backdrop of small dark berries deftly framed by suave tannins.

Though Terre di Barolo’s ArnaldoRivera label focuses on cru bottlings, Undicicomuni combines fruit from all 11 Barolo communes. Upfront cherry and cinnamon meet chocolate and hazelnut notes redolent of the Langhe’s landscape. The palate is supple and approachable yet youthful, with tannins piling up toward the finish. There is enough stuffing to balance and the finish is clean and bright. A polished, friendly ambassador for the region.

<p>Fourth-generation grape growers, brothers Enzo and Massimo established the Negretti winery in 2002. Their thoroughly delicious classic Barolo combines fruit from estate-owned vineyards in Bricco Ambrogio, Rive and Bettolotti. It spends its first six months in French oak barriques followed by 18 months in 2.5hL Austrian oak. Leading with discreet truffle and tobacco fragrances, this offers subtle raspberry and cherry underpinned by powdery tannins and a juicy core. Bright, savoury and a bit tense, it will drink well for the next seven to eight years.</p>

The quality-to-price ratio on this entry-level, young-vine Barolo is tough to beat. Approachable and balanced, supple and savoury, it sports black cherry, pomegranate and wild herb notes on a medium-bodied palate. There's energetic freshness, well-woven tannins and a full-bodied finish.

Albe is GD Vajra’s most classic Barolo in the sense that it is a blend of multiple sites: Coste di Vergne, La Volta and Fossati are all within the township of Barolo and sit at high altitudes. This wine is characterised by its pretty, becoming aromas and smooth suppleness. Alpine herbs and white pepper lace the predominantly floral profile and the palate is replete with crunchy summer berries. Don’t hesitate to pull the cork of this affable Barolo.

<p>Perno’s medieval castle was recently acquired by Brescian lawyer Gregorio Gitti, who has reestablished it as a cultural hub and hired talented consultant Gian Luca Colombo to oversee the winemaking operations. From lower altitude vines in the Castelletto cru, this emerges with inviting whiffs of lavender, lilac, mint and sage. Polished and refined, the palate displays dark raspberry fruit with powdery tannins sneaking up and lending compelling textural complexity.</p>

Established in 1988 with 10 hectares in Monforte d’Alba’s Castelletto subzone, the Seghesio estate produces two wines from this cru. La Villa showcases the property’s oldest vines, while this features newer plantings of 20 to 30 years old. Forthcoming, it exhibits an array of sweet balsamic aromas including mint, sage blossom and rosemary. Flavours of cherry and raspberry are infused with cedar and buoyed by juicy acidity, while ripe tannins flow seamlessly across the palate. Starting with the 2018 vintage, both Baroli will declare the MGA on the label.

With 6ha of Nebbiolo, Mauro Molino produces four cru-designate Baroli, plus this blend. Fruit from the Berri and Annunziata crus of La Morra provides the core while a dash of Perno in Monforte d’Alba lends some backbone. Smoky aromas make way for heady red rose perfume. On the palate floral and nutty notes join red currants and sweet spice. Sapid and fluid, this mid-weight charmer is framed by pliant tannins.

Dosio owns 11ha, nine of which are in the Serradenari cru of La Morra and two in the Barolo side of Fossati. A blend of the two, this immediately drinkable Barolo is attractively scented and bright on the palate. Tobacco and spice add nuance to crunchy forest fruit. It's medium bodied and fairly silky with some coarser wood tannins appearing on the mid-palate. While a percentage of this sees French tonneaux, the estate is moving towards ageing in large Slavonian casks only, according to new winemaker Alessandro Muda, who replaced outgoing winemaker Marco Dotta in 2020.