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Tasting the single-vineyard wines of Pio Cesare

Stephen Brook dives into Pio Cesare's 2016s and finds a splendid collection of wines of consistent quality...

Although one would expect the town of Alba to be the centre of the Barolo and Barbaresco wine industry, in fact just one single winery is located there. This is Pio Cesare, which was founded in 1881 and is today run by the genial Pio Boffa, his nephew Cesare Benvenuto, and, since 2016, Boffa’s daughter Federica, who represents the fifth generation. Thus the winery has been in the hands of the same family since its foundation. The cellars themselves are of historical importance, having been constructed four storeys deep around the ancient Roman walls of the town. Pio Boffa regards himself as a traditionalist, but he is a flexible one, and not averse to ageing part of his wines in barriques if he thinks they will gain complexity.

The Pio Cesare 2016 collection

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