Barolo 2016 ‘MGA’ late releases tasted
Barolos bearing additional geographical designations, known as MGAs, are gaining in popularity as producers seek natural brand extensions and the potential to enter the market at a higher price than their classic bottlings. Michaela Morris reports on the late-release Barolo MGA 2016s.
Barolo can be divided into two broad categories – those simply labeled Barolo and those bearing an additional geographical designation (menzioni geografiche aggiuntive, or MGA). Infinitely more romantic, ‘cru’ is commonly (though inaccurately) used interchangeably with MGA to indicate these smaller defined areas within the larger region.
Barolo’s MGAs have given value and order to its diverse land, with cru bottlings a vehicle to express that.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores from the Barolo MGA 2016 late releases
Sites like Prapò, Lazzarito and Parafada demonstrate the vigorous structure of Serralunga but each with a slightly different voice. Conversely, Rocchettevino and Gattera exhibit the finer frame and evocative perfume of La Morra, with the latter characterised by haunting truffle nuances. And Bricco Rocche is just one example of the alliance of power and finesse that Castiglione Falletto’s crus can achieve.
Differences between crus are crystal clear in 2016. ‘A great vintage is when every hill does its homework,’ concurs Giacomo Conterno at Aldo Conterno.
Despite no official quality hierarchy, Barolo’s finest crus are well-known. In his famous Carta del Barolo in 1976, Renato Ratti named those which he considered superior. Many, like Rocche di Castiglione, Cerequio and Brunate continue to be held in high regard. Across multiple producers and vintages, these sites consistently yield excellent wines.
The best MGAs
Nowadays, Vigna Rionda is one of Barolo’s most revered MGAs and often singled out for Riserva bottlings.
Bussia also enjoys renown, especially its Soprana and Sottana subzones, with fine examples coming from Aldo Conterno, Poderi Colla, Luigi Einaudi and Parusso in 2016.
Finally, based on producers’ interpretations, Monprivato, Falletto and Francia are also on Barolo’s MGA hit list.
Undoubtedly the region’s most legendary cru, Cannubi is somewhat contentious. Besides being enlarged beyond its historic zone, it is widely thought to be too warm in today’s climate. I admit to disappointments over the years, especially for the prices it often commands. However, in 2016, Francesco Rinaldi’s example displays the sheer grace of Cannubi’s storied reputation.
Conversely, crus once considered to be too cool to ripen Nebbiolo have been given a new lease of life, particulary Ravera and Monvigliero. As the warming trend continues, La Morra’s high altitude Serradenari MGA may be the next star.
Brand extensions
Since Barolo’s 181 MGAs were formally established in 2010, the number of cru bottlings has increased. In 2013 they represented about 25% of Barolo’s total production; last year this grew to almost 32%.
MGA Barolo offers a natural brand extension and the possibility to enter the market at a higher price, as most are more expensive than a producer’s classic Barolo.
While the average is two cru bottlings per producer, many offer more or are adding additional MGA bottlings to their portfolio. Azelia has just launched a new bottling from Cerretta, both Luigi Einaudi and Scarpa have a Monvigliero on the horizon and Francesco Rinaldi will release a Rocche dell’Annunziata starting with the 2018 vintage.
Beyond single crus, Barolo’s MGAs also cover its 11 townships (like Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, La Morra etc) which blend multiple sites from within the identified area. ‘I believe that in the future, commune-designated wines will occupy more space within the Barolo appellation,’ predicts Valter Fissore at Elvio Cogno.
By all indications, we have yet to see the full evolution of Barolo’s MGAs.
Top three Barolo MGA picks:
- Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Cannubi, Barolo 2016: Demonstrates the elegance, complexity and ageing potential that clinched this site’s reputation.
- Poderi Colla, Bussia Dardi le Rose, Barolo 2016: Satisfying cru Barolo with a tremendous price/quality ratio.
- Giuseppe Rinaldi, Brunate, Barolo 2016: A brilliant expression of place while using the MGA regulations to best effect.
See tasting notes and scores for the Barolo MGA 2016 late releases
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Giuseppe Rinaldi, Barolo Brunate, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
This is an evolution of Giuseppe’s Rinaldi’s Brunate Le Coste bottling. While the percentage of Brunate has increased to 85% to adhere to Barolo’s regulations...
2016
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Elvio Cogno, Ravera Bricco Pernice, Barolo, Novello, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Cogno’s Valter Fissore has come out with a magnificent set of distinct 2016 Baroli demonstrating the multifaceted Ravera cru. Among the first to be picked,...
2016
Elvio CognoBarolo
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Cannubi, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
This cru bottling comes primarily from 30- to 55-year-old vines planted on the favourably exposed, lower lying, gently sloping Boschis sector of Cannubi. The particularly...
2016
Francesco Rinaldi & FigliBarolo
Fratelli Alessandria, Gramolere, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Fratelli Alessandria is deeply rooted in the village of Verduno and is best known for its top-notch Monvigliero bottling. The estate also owns a steep,...
2016
Fratelli AlessandriaBarolo
Ceretto, Bricco Rocche, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
The smallest MGA, with only 1ha of vines, Bricco Rocche is a monopole of the Ceretto family and was first crafted as a single cru...
2016
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Aldo Conterno, Cicala, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Aldo Conterno’s three 2016 Baroli from the Bussia Soprana slope are well-defined in their diverse personalities, despite the close proximity of each site. Of the...
2016
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Poderi Colla, Bussia Dardi le Rose, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
A historic Piemontese winemaking family, the Colla clan owns four estates in the Langhe. The great Beppe Colla acquired the Dardi le Rose property in...
2016
Poderi CollaBarolo
Aldo Conterno, Romirasco, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Similar to the neighbouring Cicala vineyard, Romirasco is slightly less steep with a bit more sand and magnesium in the soil. Nevertheless, the predominantly limestone-rich...
2016
Aldo ConternoBarolo Bussia
Massolino, Parafada, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Now in the hands of the fourth generation, Massolino has slowly expanded its holdings, which include some of Barolo’s most hallowed sites. Purchased in 1958,...
2016
MassolinoBarolo
Ciabot Berton, Rocchettevino, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
The Oberto family owns 3ha in Rocchettevino extending from 350 to 450 metres above sea level. The 2016 is a lovely, expressive Barolo: scents of...
2016
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Parusso, Bussia, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
This hails from two separate areas in the large and varied cru of Bussia. Rocche has a southeastern exposure on limestone soil whereas Munie faces...
2016
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Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Bussia, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Einaudi’s first release from the Bussia MGA, this hails specifically from the revered slope of Bussia Soprana. Initially restrained, traces of strawberry and raspberry come...
2016
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Azelia, Barolo Cerretta, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
After acquiring 2.5ha in Cerretta over 30 years ago, the Scavino family restructured the vineyard replanting it with a massal selection from Bricco Fiasco. They...
2016
AzeliaBarolo Cerretta
Ceretto, Prapò, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Along with Brunate, Prapò was the first Barolo parcel purchased by Bruno and Marcello Ceretto in the late 1960s. Taking time to unfold, the 2016...
2016
CerettoBarolo
Ciabot Berton, Roggeri, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Whereas Ciabot Berton’s Rocchettevino can be characterised by its aromatic complexity, the neighbouring Roggeri yields a weightier wine with more intense tannins thanks to the...
2016
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Cordero di Montezemolo, Gattera, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Cordero di Montezemolo owns 11ha of contiguous vineyards in Gattera. The majority of fruit is incorporated into the estate’s classic Barolo called Monfalletto, with a...
2016
Cordero di MontezemoloBarolo
Ettore Germano, Prapò, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Germano possesses 1.5ha of Prapò’s total 9ha, with plantings dating back to 1967. This revered cru sits at the top of the Cerretta hill and...
2016
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Anselma, Mosconi, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
The Anselma family is a considerable landowner in the Langhe with 36 of its 70 hectares registered for Barolo and scattered throughout the villages of...
2016
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GD Vajra, Coste di Rose, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Coste di Rose sits within the confines of the Barolo township abutting Monforte d’Alba. The cool site is characterised by an outcropping of pure, deep...
2016
GD VajraBarolo
Enzo Boglietti, Casa Nere, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Case Nere sits between the more renowned MGAs of Fossati and Cerequio in the township of La Morra, and Enzo Boglietti is one of only...
2016
Enzo BogliettiBarolo
Giovanni Manzone, Bricat, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Manzone’s oldest vineyard, Bricat sits at the top of the Gramolere MGA reaching 400 metres and faces south to southwest. Here the calcareous soil is...
2016
Giovanni ManzoneBarolo
ArnaldoRivera, Ravera, Barolo, Novello, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
ArnaldoRivera is a new line of cru-designate Barolo from the large Terre del Barolo co-operative. The Ravera bottling hails from six different plots within this...
2016
ArnaldoRiveraBarolo
Parusso, Mariondino, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
The estate’s Mariondino parcel was Gaspare Parusso’s first, purchased in 1901. On marly-sandstone soil, the west-facing plot takes in the late afternoon sun and is...
2016
ParussoBarolo
Anselma, Lazzarito, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Working alongside his mother Giovanna who tends the vineyards, Maurizio Anselma is in charge of the winemaking. The style goes against the current trend in...
2016
AnselmaBarolo
Dosio, Serradenari, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Reaching 540 metres, Serradenari is the highest altitude site in the Barolo region. This cool area has been garnering more attention in the wake of...
2016
DosioBarolo
Castello di Perno, Castelletto, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Castello di Perno’s 3ha in Castelletto sit directly opposite Serralunga’s illustrious Vigna Rionda cru. Winemaker Gian Luca Colombo describes the two as geologically similar as...
2016
Castello di PernoBarolo
Fratelli Revello, Gattera, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Attractive and alluring, restrained brambly red berries and spice gain intrigue from subtle truffle and rosehip nuances. Fine-boned tannins build slowly across the mid-weight palate,...
2016
Fratelli RevelloBarolo
Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
A representation of the Barolo commune rather than any specific cru, this wine includes fruit from Sarmassa, Coste di Rose and Cannubi. Less powerful than...
2016
Marchesi di BaroloBarolo
Ettore Germano, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Proposed as a wide-angle representation of the commune of Serralunga d’Alba rather than a single cru, this is crafted from vines less than 20 years...
2016
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Vite Colte, Essenze, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Made by the Terre da Vino cooperative, Vite Colte is a premium line including three commune-designate Baroli. The Serralunga bottling comes from various vineyards in...
2016
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Le Strette, Bergeisa, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Though based in Novello, Le Strette rents a small parcel in the Bergeisa cru of Barolo. The estate is the only one to make a...
2016
Le StretteBarolo
