Barossa Shiraz 2023: Vintage report and 40 top-scoring wines
In a year of climatic challenges, the best 2023 Shirazes reflect a trend for more streamlined styles in Barossa. David Sly assesses vintage conditions and recommends producers to watch, with scores and tasting notes of 40 top bottles.
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Barossa Shiraz 2023 vintage rating: 4/5
Despite challenges, growers who paid careful attention to their vines enjoyed superb grapes from the 2023 harvest. After steady winter rains, spring was one of the wettest on record, though timely spraying averted threats of downy mildew.
There were no sustained summer heatwaves; cooler weather and large vine canopies saw veraison occur during February, delaying the Barossa’s 2023 vintage by up to four weeks. Shiraz usually harvested in mid-February was picked from mid-March.
However, slow ripening produced complex flavours in grapes, with red wines showing intense, rich and balanced flavours and colours. While crop volumes varied across the region, the total Barossa yield (red and white) was slightly above average at 73,160 tonnes.
Scroll down for David’s top-scoring wines from the 2023 Barossa Shiraz releases
Capturing heightened elegance in Barossa Shiraz comes with confidence – and a cooler, longer vintage in 2023 has certainly helped a raft of winemakers embrace this evolving style.
This vintage presented challenges, especially to obtain optimal ripeness at the highest elevations. It required great attention in the vineyard, especially to escape fungal disease due to cooler temperatures.
But smart vignerons – led by Alkina, Michael Hall, The Cutting and Head Wines – took great care to place specific attention on individual grape parcels, applying multiple winemaking techniques to achieve superior results.
Shifting style
Decanter published its first Barossa Shiraz Vintage Report for the 2022 vintage and noted that a shift in winemaking style was gaining a foothold.
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The best wines captured a leanness and nimbleness that defied a lingering perception of heavyweight Barossa Shiraz with high alcohol and super-ripe fruit.
This change in direction has now gained traction.
The 2023 vintage provided the right environment for Barossa winemakers to explore these ideas further. From the 89 submissions for this vintage report, a broad league of wines shows subtle and complex marriages of flavour and texture.
With less insistence on shouting, subtleties were allowed to speak with increased clarity.
This is a great achievement by modern Barossa producers. More detailed understanding of terroir, greater care for the fragility of ancient vines and increased responsiveness to climatic changes have translated to expressive wines that clearly reflect their environment.
Terroir expression
‘We are seeing terroir inform the winemaking required to make the best wines,’ says Alex Head, winemaker at Head Wines, who sources fruit from 15 privately owned Barossa vineyards. ‘Hard work in the winery has resulted in wines of really interesting texture from the 2023 vintage.’
Once, the Barossa’s quandary was whether to maintain tradition by making hefty Shiraz of imposing depth and power, or to embrace more slimline contemporary tastes.
It’s pleasing that the current direction respects old-vine intensity while also championing understated elegance and refined beauty.
Shiraz from the 2023 vintage shows impressive consistency from the top tier of producers. Expect pretty perfumes as a consequence of cooler temperatures, along with complex texture aided by supple, lithe tannins.
Many of these wines seem slightly shy now, but the best have an unforced elegance that won’t fade with time.
Names to know
Rising high above the ordinary are a suite of meticulous wine producers, led by Alkina, Michael Hall, John Duval and Alex Head, along with boutique producers including Belinda van Eyssen from The Cutting.
Impressive new faces are producing wines of the highest order. They include Jack Scholz, taking over the reins at The Willows Vineyard. Young winemaker Samantha Chandra is focusing on distinctive single vineyard expressions with her solo project Setiono.
While Nick Radford is making notable advances at Mirus Vineyards in the Marananga subregion.
With a nod to classic style, Henschke notably demonstrates the craft of careful blending with Henry’s Seven, a wine that achieves a high degree of sophistication.
Shiraz from the Barossa Valley floor is co-fermented with Viognier pressings, and just the right addition of Grenache and Mataro, to achieve ideal balance.
‘Any wines that are focused on expressing region, place and site are showing especially well from the 2023 vintage,’ concludes Alkina winemaker Amelia Nolan. ‘And for that reason, we regard 2023 as a fabulous year.’
Barossa: The facts
Founded: 1842
Vineyards: 14,236ha under vine, with 11,847ha in the Barossa Valley (elevation 112-597m) and 2,389ha in the adjacent Eden Valley (elevation 217-637m). This represents 9.7% of Australia’s total wine production.
Climate: hot and dry. Barossa average rainfall 160mm; Eden Valley average rainfall 280mm. Mean temperatures during the key January growing period are 21.4℃ in Barossa and 19.4℃ in Eden Valley.
Vine age: Barossa has the oldest producing Shiraz vines in the world, planted in 1843. 283ha of vines are more than 70 years of age; 82ha are more than 125 years old.
Barossa Shiraz 2023: The top 40 wines
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Alkina, Polygon No 1, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Serious old-vine Shiraz doesn’t have to be weighed down by bulk – and Alkina has a sprightly championship contender here, showing tight, lean muscle but...
2023
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AlkinaBarossa Valley
Alkina, Striato Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

A fusion of two Polygon components within Alkina’s Greenock vineyard pulls together a sublime chorus of subtle notes. Showing a shade less body weight than...
2023
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AlkinaBarossa Valley
Head Wines, The Blonde Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Winemaker Alex Head says this single-block expression is his homage to finesse – which clearly shows on the palate, although there’s still a formidable, sharp...
2023
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Head WinesBarossa Valley
Michael Hall Wines, Barossa Valley Shiraz, Stonewell Road, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

When the conductor strikes up the orchestra for this big concerto, every instrument is perfectly in tune, and immediately strikes up the sweetest harmony. A...
2023
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Michael Hall WinesBarossa Valley
Michael Hall Wines, Eden Valley Syrah, Flaxman's Valley, Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

A cooler, longer vintage had a telling effect on fruit from this Eden Valley vineyard. It’s surprising that the flavour profile leans into the darkest...
2023
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Michael Hall WinesEden Valley
The Cutting, Single Vineyard Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

The Stone Well vineyard that winemaker Belinda van Eyssen sources this fruit from is showing remarkable consistency – its harmonious mix of fresh blueberry, redcurrant...
2023
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The CuttingBarossa Valley
Henschke, Henry's Seven, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

A smart, cohesive wine from a complex meld of components: 81% Shiraz co-fermented with 2% Viognier, augmented by 11% Grenache and 6% Mataro. Most of...
2023
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HenschkeBarossa Valley
Schwarz Wine Co, Meta Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

All hail the modern! Jason Schwarz is leading a convincing argument for new Barossa style with his Meta Shiraz, containing fruit sourced from four Barossa...
2023
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Schwarz Wine CoBarossa Valley
Setiono, Flaxman Syrah, Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

The cooler climes of Eden Valley can show many personalities – especially in a longer, slower vintage such as 2023 – and winemaker Samantha Chandra...
2023
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SetionoEden Valley
The Willows Vineyard, G7 Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

The Scholz family has tended this fine vineyard in the Light Pass subregion of the Barossa for seven generations, with young winemaker Jack Scholz taking...
2023
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The Willows VineyardBarossa Valley
Alkina, Birdsong Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Fine-boned and delicately framed, the spicy notes of Shiraz are thrust to the foreground here, with a feisty savoury character attached to lean, sinewy fruit....
2023
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AlkinaBarossa Valley
Head Wines, The Brunette Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

With a sturdy black-fruited core, this is a more formidable monument than its Head Wines stablemates. Sourced from the Fechner vineyard, planted in 1908 at...
2023
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Head WinesBarossa Valley
Hewitson, Monopole Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Designed with a specific focus, using only pre-phylloxera 'sélection clonale' Shiraz that originates from Hewitson’s 1853 Old Garden Vineyard, this shows remarkable balance and poise...
2023
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HewitsonBarossa Valley
John Duval Wines, Annexus Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Rare depth of colour and lush purple-fruited intensity illustrate the power in this wine, although it looks especially vibrant and alive rather that overly weighty....
2023
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John Duval WinesEden Valley
John Duval Wines, Entity Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

A consistent focus of John Duval Wines is to show the depth of concentrated and complex influences. Here, that approach shows immediately in the glass,...
2023
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John Duval WinesBarossa Valley
Kalleske, Greenock Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Rich perfume, vibrant colour and enthusiastic fruit flavours all underline the distinctive character of this single-vineyard expression from the Kalleske family’s Moppa region farm, which...
2023
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KalleskeBarossa Valley
Purple Hands Wines, Barossa Valley Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Incredible liveliness and vibrancy to a vivid purple colour and sprightly nose of mulberries and wild herbs suggests a big flavour attack, but the opposite...
2023
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Purple Hands WinesBarossa Valley
Rusden, School Days Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Always pursing the intensity of dark fruit profiles, Rusden drills hard into the black soul of intense Shiraz for this cuvee, but never tumbles into...
2023
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RusdenBarossa Valley
Setiono, Lowke Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Ebenezer, South Australia, Australia, 2023

An organic northern Barossa vineyard in the Ebenezer subregion, with hard brown soil that is rich in ironstone, provides Shiraz with gnarly, concentrated flavours that...
2023
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SetionoBarossa Valley
Sons of Eden, Zephyrus Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Rich, plush and confident, this makes a lavish statement about celebrating opulent velvety texture. The marriage of mostly old-vine Shiraz from 10 different sites highlights...
2023
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Sons of EdenBarossa Valley
Grant Burge Wines, Filsell Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

What was once a wine defined by specific location is now a regional melange, though its intention to be a harmonious crowd pleaser remains. The...
2023
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Grant Burge WinesBarossa Valley
Head Wines, Red Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Sourced from 15 vineyards, mostly from Eden Valley, with vines aged between 30 and 130 years old, this wine chases winemaker Alex Head’s vision of...
2023
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Head WinesBarossa Valley
Hentley Farm, Clos Otto Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Power and concentration are defining factors from the outset; impenetrable purple colour, an imposing high tide of plump purple, blue and black berries on the...
2023
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Hentley FarmBarossa Valley
Hentley Farm, The Beast Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

The characteristic bulky muscle and bombastic drive of this big wine is subdued in this vintage, without surrendering its formidable big Shiraz stature. Yes, it’s...
2023
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Hentley FarmBarossa Valley
Kaesler, Alte Reben Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Marananga, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Tight-fisted Shiraz power can still have grace and measured decorum. This single-estate wine from an 1899 block in the Marananga subregion has the customary deep...
2023
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KaeslerBarossa Valley
Mirus, Wonderground Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Marananga, South Australia, Australia, 2023

This single-vineyard expression from the Marananga subregion is delightfully surprising. Its massive aromas, colour and structure suggest it’s all about deep earthy power, yet the...
2023
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MirusBarossa Valley
Seppeltsfield, The Northing, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

The robust blood red colour is serious; so too is the fleshy red fruited entry, spiked with rich red earth tones and a heady whiff...
2023
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SeppeltsfieldBarossa Valley
Soul Growers, Single Vineyard Hampel Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

A single-vineyard expression from the Hampel family’s northern Ebenezer subregion, which maintains steady focus along its palate line, showing controlled intensity. The flavour meld is...
2023
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Soul Growers, Slow Grown Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

As a composite of many different Barossa Shiraz parcels, with barrels selected for their power, concentration and depth of flavour, the focus has remained on...
2023
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Soul GrowersBarossa Valley
Torbrek, The Struie, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Thick, dark and concentrated – yet after opening up in the glass, the palate shows more vitality through dense, textural layers and interlocking flavours. There...
2023
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TorbrekBarossa Valley
Two Hands Wines, Charlie's Garden Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

With lively purple fruit sourced from Eden Valley vineyards planted on gravelly soils, this wine boasts a solid line of acidity that provides the key...
2023
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Two Hands WinesEden Valley
Whistler, Shiver Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Expressive, in so many ways, starting with a lively, juicy purple glow in the glass, showing the influence of whole bunch fruit in the ferment....
2023
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WhistlerBarossa Valley
Chaffey Bros Wine Co, Elijah, Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Shining a light on Eden Valley Shiraz character, this single-site wine, from the Fechner Vineyard in Moculta, makes a bold purple fruit statement. It has...
2023
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Chaffey Bros Wine CoEden Valley
Elderton Wines, Neil Ashmead Grand Tourer Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Cheeky and affable, this is Shiraz with an engaging red-fruited smile but also some boisterous black-fruited muscle. Sourced from vines aged from 34 to 69...
2023
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Elderton WinesBarossa Valley
Gibson Wines, The Dirtman, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Veteran winemaker Rob Gibson holds a fixed vision of what he defines as classic Barossa Shiraz; big-bodied, dense and concentrated, and amplifying a big personality....
2023
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Gibson WinesBarossa Valley
Glaetzer, Amon-Ra, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

This presents a dense labyrinth of black-fruited intrigue, requiring furrowed-brow concentration to dig through all the layers. On the nose, there’s tar, olive, black liquorice...
2023
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GlaetzerBarossa Valley
Greenock Creek, Seven Acre Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

This wine clearly illustrates striking differences between three single-block Shirazes from the same producer. Seven Acre shows excellent balance, with its clean fruit profile shining...
2023
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Seppeltsfield, The Westing, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

A single vineyard site on red-brown soils at the Barossa’s western ridge produces dark fruits that tumble with olive, cedar and a leathery chew, all...
2023
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SeppeltsfieldBarossa Valley
Thorn-Clarke Wines, Single Vineyard Selection Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

The decision to separate a single parcel from the 2023 vintage pays smart dividends for Thorn-Clarke, with rich fruit character showing a focused personality and...
2023
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Thorn-Clarke WinesBarossa Valley
Yelland & Papps, Limited Cuvée Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2023

Coming from vines planted during 1960, off the Old Bamboo vineyard in the Greenock subregion, with sandy loam over red clay, this rich fruit offers...
2023
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Yelland & PappsBarossa Valley
After 30 years in journalism, Australian freelance writer, author and editor David Sly has been fortunate enough to indulge his passions in print. Based in Adelaide, South Australia, David has moved from newspapers to specialise in food and wine writing, being published in national and international magazines, from Gourmet Traveller to Decanter, and is Food & Wine Editor of SA Life magazine. He has focused intently on the specialised regional produce and wines of South Australia, winning national awards, and is a graduate of the University of Adelaide/ Le Cordon Bleu Gastronomy course.
