Bolgheri 2016: One of the best vintages ever?

It’s possibly not as exceptional as 2006, which was unique and without comparison, and neither is it the favourite of consultant Michel Rolland, who continues to prefer 2001, but 2016 is one of the best vintages ever in Bolgheri.

Undoubtedly, Bolgheri 2016 is a five-star vintage for Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Masseto. Whether it’s better than the celebrated and powerful 2015 vintage is like comparing Coppi and Bartali.

The 2016 vintage

In 2016, water reserves were plentiful due to abundant rainfall in February, and fertility was high due to great warmth the previous spring. Bud-break occurred a week ahead of the average – as did flowering, between 23 and 28 May.

From this point forward, a patchy progression of rainfall spread throughout Italy, yet in Bolgheri there were only occasional summer rains. The grapes were never dehydrated and by harvest the clusters were beautifully swollen, preserving aromatics and the natural sweetness of the fruit.

Harvest got underway on 24 August, earlier than average, however it took longer than usual and so finished in line with the norm. Tenuta Argentiera, for example, undertook one of the later harvests of the appellation due to higher altitudes and a predominance of Cabernet Sauvignon, and finished on 12 October.

Yields were higher than average, at 26.106 quintals/ha for Bolgheri Superiore, compared to 23.466 in 2015 and 22.099 in 2017.

Scroll down to see Aldo’s 35 picks from the Bolgheri 2016 vintage

Factors

Axel Heinz, managing director of Ornellaia and Masseto, explains that one of the reasons behind the strong vintage performance in 2016 is the increasing age of the vines:

‘Bolgheri is a relatively young appellation. The average age of the vines when we harvested the 2001 or 2006 vintages was less than 30 years, whereas in 2016 it is higher. So, this vintage is probably not the best in absolute terms, but it definitely is if you consider the higher average age of the vines.’

Another important element for quality in Bolgheri is the wind, one of the most precious secrets of this region.

‘Two weeks of Tramontana wind,’ commented Michele Satta, ‘was most likely the main factor for the quality of the 2016 vintage in Bolgheri.’

This Tramontana is a cold northeast wind, often suggesting the end of the summer in Tuscany yet bringing bright, crystalline days followed by cool nights, and almost always giving great harvests.

‘This wind was essential in order to concentrate sugars, as well as preserve acidity while waiting for phenolic ripeness, which was exceptional,’ added Satta.

Tasting the wines, there’s clearly a great homogeneity in 2016, much like 2004, for example. While concentration might not be as great as in 2015, the overall balance and elegance of the wines is definitely superior. This balance puts 2016 in the lead for the long run, being less austere than 2015.

About Bolgheri

Bolgheri is a small region lying three miles inland from the sea on the Tuscan coast, within the province of Livorno on the northern side of Maremma.

Spanning 1,370 hectares, it’s considered ‘the Bordeaux of Italy’ as the region specialises primarily in Bordeaux-style blends.

Plantings

Red: Cabernet Sauvignon (36.6%), Merlot (23.4%), Cabernet Franc (12%), Petit Verdot (a strikingly high 6.4%), Syrah (6.2%), Sangiovese (1.5%).

White: Vermentino (8.9%), Viognier (1.4%).

Apart from the famed reds of the region, Vermentino produces an extremely successful dry, spicy white wine considered a signature summer style for seasonal consumption in local restaurants, and is popular with tourists on the beach. It is also often blended with Viognier.

Since 1994, Bolgheri Sassicaia was considered a sub-appellation of Bolgheri Superiore, but in 2013 it was declared its own monopole: Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC.

Masseto: New home, new wine

Masseto is a rare example of a single-vineyard, single-varietal wine, made from 100% Merlot. This April, Masseto inaugurated its new home, a dedicated cellar facility designed by the architecture studio, Zito Mori.

In years past, it was vinified within the cellar of Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, albeit maintaining its own label and identity. Today, carved into the ancient blue clay that makes up the vineyard, the Masseto winery is a physical and symbolic tribute to the estate’s history and rapid evolution, from a humble intuition about the hidden potential of a vineyard site to an internationally acclaimed wine.

The blue clay, cooling coastal breezes and abundant refracted light from the Tyrrhenian Sea all contribute to Masseto’s intriguing combination of power, elegance and complexity. Masseto has received international acclaim since its birth in 1986.

Beginning with the 2006 vintage (released in October 2009), about 20% of the world’s allocations were handled by five négociants of the Place de Bordeaux. Over the years it has become, according to some economists and trade experts, a luxury investment.

In October 2019, Massetino– the ‘second wine’ of Masseto– will make its debut with the 2017 vintage. It will be available to selected accounts in Italy and the US.

Giovanni Geddes, CEO of Masseto comments: ‘It seems to be a natural development for the Masseto estate to produce a ‘second vin’, and the 2017 vintage proved to be the right time to do it. It’s an exciting moment for Masseto and the new winery provides us with the right environment to pursue this new project’.

The Masseto estate is part of the Frescobaldi Family group.

Aldo’s Bolgheri 2016 best value picks:

Le Crocine, 57022, Bolgheri Superiore 2016

Le Crocine is one of Bolgheri’s newest additions. Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi, Piero and Lodovico Antinori’s nephew, started his estate with Cabernet Franc vines. In 2016, Marzichi Lenzi released his first Bolgheri Superiore, Le Crocine’s 57022, which is one of the top wines in its lower price range given his almost exclusively local reputation.

Striking a balance between Loire and St-Emilion in style, it’s nevertheless strongly marked with Mediterranean herbs.

Mulini di Segalari, Ai Confini del Bosco, Bolgheri 2016

Ai Confini del Bosco, from the Mulini di Segalari estate, is possibly the least costly wine in Bolgheri (€16-18 RRP). This niche winery is considered the ‘garagiste’ of the region, possessing just 2.3 hectares and bearing recognition as the first biodynamic winery within the DOC.

The vineyards are located slightly higher than average below the Castagneto Carducci village, close to Grattamacco. The wines are sometimes rustic, yet always full of character and with great drinkability.

Poggio al Tesoro, Il Seggio, Bolgheri 2016

Il Seggio, awarded a Platinum medal at last year’s Decanter World Wine Awards, is the entry-level wine of Poggio al Tesoro, the Allegrini family’s estate in Bolgheri. It’s sourced from ‘Le Sondraie’, considered one of the best plots of the entire appellation, and is another top pick.

Bolgheri 2016: Top-scoring wines from Aldo’s report

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