How the 2005 Bordeaux first growths taste now
A recent tasting of the acclaimed 2005 vintage in Bordeaux gave Andy Howard MW the chance to see how each wine from the five first growth estates is developing.
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A recent tasting showcasing the five Bordeaux first growths from the 2005 vintage provided the perfect opportunity to review how the wines, from the very high quality, albeit slow-maturing vintage, are developing.
The tasting, hosted by the expanding Oeno Group was one of three and was introduced by Justin Knock MW who explained that just one bottle of each château’s wine was available to taste at each tasting session.
Without the ability to account for bottle variation, a couple of the wines may not have been showing their best, which is reflected in the tasting notes.
Scroll down to see the tasting notes and scores for the Bordeaux 2005 first growths
How are the Bordeaux 2005 firth growths showing now?
What is evident is that 2005 is still a vintage where the top wines still have a way to go.
In some cases, they are still closed and monumental in structure.
I tasted these exact wines (minus the Latour which was unavailable at the time) in November 2009. Since then, the wines have developed but in a fairly subtle way.
The concern still remains about how the wines will taste when the tannic structure finally resolves – there still seems to be a risk that some could dry out.
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See Bordeaux vintage guides: 2019-2005
Of the bottles tasted, the standouts were Latour and Margaux. The former displayed huge intensity of graphite and pencil lead notes combined with dark black fruit and glossy tannins whereas the Margaux was impressively concentrated, youthful and massive.
Haut-Brion exhibited the earthy, spicy notes anticipated, whereas both Mouton and Lafite Rothschild were a little under-whelming. This could easily be down to bottle variation – a costly concern, with each bottle fetching in excess of £600.
About Oeno Group
Oeno is a relatively new fine wine venture, set up by Italian wine expert Daniel Carnio, with the aim of making it easier for individual consumers, the wine-trade and investors to access top-end wine.
Oeno Group seeks to provide a complete service ranging from fine-wine investment, the supply of top wines to restaurants, and the ability for customers to visit one of the group’s exclusive bars.
Having won Fine Wine Investment Firm of the Year at the European Global Business & Finance Awards in 2019, the group also offers an in-house anti-fraud unit which claims to regulate every single bottle.
The latest initiative from the group, Oeno House at the Royal Exchange, next to the Bank of England, is a wine boutique and wine bar, offering consumers the opportunity to browse the wide-ranging selection of fine wines before purchasing.
There’s an option to enjoy the wine at the bar, with a service charge levied on top of the purchase price. The perfect opportunity to enjoy that bottle of La Tache or Petrus after a hard Monday in the office.
Bordeaux 2005 first growths: tasting notes and scores
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Château Latour, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2005

As you would expect from a wine of its stature in a monumental vintage, this is a stately wine of great power, exuberance and pedigree....
2005
BordeauxFrance
Château LatourPauillac
Château Margaux, Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2005

As to be expected at this lauded estate, there is an intoxicating aroma which belies the great power and intensity enveloped in this sensual wine....
2005
BordeauxFrance
Château MargauxMargaux
Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2005

A very fine nose of damson, plums and cream, intermingled with rosemary, lavender and rose petal. Powerful and intense on the nose but does not...
2005
BordeauxFrance
Château Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2005

A pair of balancing scales - one side depicting the sun, the other rain - is etched into the bottle, with the sun slightly winning...
2005
BordeauxFrance
Château Lafite RothschildPauillac
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2005

There is something truly special about this Mouton Rothschild. A wine that initially holds itself back, gently revealing the ripe fruits and beautiful incense. Although...
2005
BordeauxFrance
Château Mouton RothschildPauillac

Andy Howard MW became a Master of Wine in 2011 and runs his own consultancy business, Vinetrades Ltd, which focuses on education, judging, investment and sourcing.
He previously worked for Marks & Spencer as a buyer for over 30 years and was responsible as wine buyer for Burgundy, Bordeaux, Loire, Champagne, Italy, North and South America, South Africa, England, Port and Sherry.
Although his key areas of expertise are Burgundy and Italy, he also has great respect for the wines of South America and South Africa, as well as a keen interest in the wines from South West France
He is a Decanter contributing editor and is the DWWA Regional Chair for Central Italy. Andy also writes a regular column on the UK wine retail trade for JancisRobinson.com.