Bordeaux 2012: The top-rated wines tasted 10 years on
It may have been one of Bordeaux’s ‘in-between’ years, but 2012’s finest wines focused on charm over power and are at their best right now.
There are some good and charming wines, but no great wines, in 2012.
This was the verdict of a producer whose honest judgements I have learned to value, when we tasted the vintage together, en primeur, in April 2013. Retasting the vintage 10 years on, I find he has been proved correct. That’s all right.
We need in-between years to drink while waiting for the celebrated vintages to reach their best, especially if they cost less at the outset. Most top 2005s and many 2010s from leading châteaux are still not near their best. Most 2012s are fully ready.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the best 40 Bordeaux 2012 reds
The problems began in 2012 in the spring, because flowering was extended in poor weather, resulting in uneven bunches of varying maturity; and as rain continued this was compounded by numerous mildew attacks. Lots of work had to be done in the vineyard to remove unripe grapes and combat the mildew.
Estates which had the resource to do this were clearly better placed than the smaller and less well-off châteaux. Good weather from mid-July through August and in early September meant that most Merlot, which ripens earlier, was harvested before the rains arrived again. But the châteaux whose Cabernet Sauvignons were unripe were caught out, as were those that traditionally choose to pick late.
Success was measured, as Jancis Robinson MW pointed out in 2014, only on a case by case basis depending on exactly how each property reacted to each problem. While first growth Châteaux Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild could remain 90% Cabernet Sauvignon or more because of their privileged terroir, many châteaux in the Médoc used more Merlot in their wine and had to reduce volumes considerably. Similarly, the warmer terroirs of Châteaux Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion (and of other estates in Pessac-Léognan) were an advantage.
This year’s tastings reveal fine bottles from some estates that need and deserve more time to reveal their full potential. In general, however, this is a vintage that should not be hoarded. I particularly like the châteaux that decided to major on charm and finesse at the expense of power. Châteaux Margaux and Cheval Blanc are textbook examples of this approach.
The 2012s have riper tannins and gentler acidity than 2011. While it is misleading to generalise about appellations, there were many successes in Pomerol, and Pessac Léognan and Margaux often performed well. But the usually more reliable classed growths of St-Julien and Pauillac somehow miss their usual magic.
Bordeaux 2012: the best 40 wines 10 years on
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Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2012
97
A blooming bouquet backed by a splendid core of multi-faceted fruit give this real class, which Left Bank wines often lacked in 2012. The highest proportion of Merlot (87%) since the 1985 vintage, which third-generation owner Alexandre Thienpont described as a ‘glass of perfume’. Still improving.
2012
Vieux Château CertanPomerol
Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
This is a gorgeous, voluptuous wine, sweet as a nut all the way through. Red fruits on the nose with hints of liquorice and coffee....
2012
Château Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château Cheval Blanc, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2012
A beautifully balanced claret with a fragrant silky texture, fine backbone and length on the palate, promising a long life. Not a ‘big’ wine but...
2012
Château Cheval BlancSt-Émilion
Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2012
96
Ripe roasted fruit with considerable extract and personality. Full, powerful mid-palate and length of flavour. This benefited in 2012 from the property’s early-ripening terroir.
2012
Château La Mission Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château L'Évangile, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2012
A deep-coloured wine with real Pomerol ‘flesh’ and structure. This is a wine that grows in the glass, showing its class as it opens up;...
2012
Château L'ÉvangilePomerol
Château Margaux, Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
By Margaux standards not a big wine, but beautifully perfumed. Finesse and length on the palate that’s unmatched by any other property in the Médoc...
2012
Château MargauxMargaux
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Real depth and individuality with lovely core to the fruit and length on the palate. A pure and beautiful expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from a...
2012
Château Mouton RothschildPauillac
Château Latour, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
95
High-grade Cabernet Sauvignon that still remains a touch austere, with freshness and less polish than the Mouton Rothschild 2012 tasted at the same time, but with similar staying power. Latour’s 2011 vintage was the last that it made available via Bordeaux’s traditional en primeur system, so this 2012 was only released by the estate for the first time in May 2020.
2012
Château LatourPauillac
Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
With 91% Cabernet Sauvignon this still has a strong tannin backbone, balanced by an elegant fragrance that is Lafite’s hallmark. Bottles have varied, however, so...
2012
Château Lafite RothschildPauillac
Château Angélus, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Exotically perfumed, with ripe, lushly textured fruit. A complete and showy example of great, polished modern claret at its best, when the owner was successfully...
2012
Château AngélusSt-Émilion
Château L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2012
95
This big, showy wine with lots of body and structure wowed a group of tasters who rated it higher than the first growths. Certainly a splendid effort, with smoky, ripe, concentrated fruit, but a bit of a bruiser. Denis Durantou, who died too young in 2020 aged 62, was on top form at the time.
2012
Château L'Eglise-ClinetPomerol
Château Figeac, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2012
As ever with Figeac, this will benefit from longer ageing than most because of the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in the blend....
2012
Château FigeacSt-Émilion
Château Margaux, Pavillon Rouge, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 2012
A true younger sibling of the first growth, this well-known second wine offers a finely scented bouquet and creamy palate in 2012. Proper Margaux finesse...
2012
Château MargauxMargaux
Château Montrose, St-Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
A proper grown-up claret with uncompromising but well-padded tannin and parity of fruit that still needs five years more to soften.
2012
Château MontroseSt-Estèphe
Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Rich, generous, plummy fruit, with concentrated flavour and considerable tannin that makes its development an unknown quantity. Will all the elements marry? Keep for five...
2012
Château PalmerMargaux
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Intense bouquet of small, flavoursome red fruit and a precise – quite tight – palate that will benefit from further ageing. Perhaps a little austere,...
2012
Château Rauzan-SéglaMargaux
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2012
94
A great example of good modern winemaking with instantly appealing fresh, ripe fruit attack and sweet spicy flavour. The freshness will sustain this well, if not add extra complexity – by this point, more than 20 years of intelligent investment by owners Daniel and Florence Cathiard had paid off.
2012
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Château Bélair-Monange, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2012
A warm and welcoming claret with attractive richness, elegance and length on the palate, but not the class of a better vintage. This was a...
2012
Château Bélair-MonangeSt-Émilion
Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Beautifully fragrant and finely judged claret with 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot. A refined and charming, gentle expression of the appellation. A property that...
2012
Château Brane-CantenacMargaux
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
With elegant, charming, and fresh notes of blackcurrant, liquorice, black fruits and hints of lavender and green bell pepper, this 2012 Ducru-Beaucaillou is remarkably fresh...
2012
Château Ducru-BeaucaillouSt-Julien
Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2012
93
Wines from this property have been gaining in complexity under scrupulous Moueix vineyard management. Quite powerful, rich and long, but short of the real class of a better vintage.
2012
Château La Fleur-PétrusPomerol
Château Saint-Pierre, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
93
Textbook ‘cedary’ St-Julien backed up by full plummy fruit. A very well-made, enjoyable wine. The Martin family, owners since 1982, have made major investment in quality here, which has paid off.
2012
Château Saint-PierreSt-Julien
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
93
Lovely creamy texture and supple fruit. A delightful, relatively uncomplicated claret of medium weight and charm that’s probably now at its best.
2012
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de LalandePauillac
Château Canon, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Cabernet Franc has grown in importance here, representing 30% of the blend, giving perfume and structure and creamy, well-balanced texture but relatively light body. Enjoy...
2012
Château CanonSt-Émilion
Château Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Deep-coloured, richly flavoured claret with an immediate and abundant ‘attack’, which then rather fades away. Will undoubtedly keep well but will always lack the class...
2012
Château Cos d'EstournelSt-Estèphe
Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Stylish, sweet, fresh-tasting. Midweight but well balanced and a good result in this vintage. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc.
2012
Château Léoville BartonSt-Julien
Château Léoville Las Cases, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Structured palate with deep-scented fruit and potential, but lacking the extra excitement and distinction that this terroir can provide.
2012
Château Léoville Las CasesSt-Julien
Château Meyney, St-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France, 2012
92
Few, if any, non-classed growths have a better terroir or track record in recent vintages. Fragrant fruit, well balanced with a full, rounded flavour. Just right to drink now after 10 years.
2012
Château MeyneySt-Estèphe
Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
A solid-structured wine with blackcurrant Cabernet very much in evidence, though the blend contained the wine’s highest ever percentage of Merlot (26%). Proper Pauillac but...
2012
Château Lynch-BagesPauillac
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Fresh and still firm (tasted from magnum) with good balance and velvety texture. This sample will reveal more in three years’ time. Subsequent vintages have...
2012
Domaine de ChevalierPessac-Léognan
Château Batailley, Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
91
A fine claret with plenty of charm. Pure, focused fruit character on the nose and the perfume carries through to the palate before a harmonious finish.
2012
Château BatailleyPauillac
Château Bouscaut, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2012
91
Virtually equal proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a distinctive 5% Malbec adding fresh blue fruit, perfume and vitality. This well-run property delivers great value consistently.
2012
Château BouscautPessac-Léognan
Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
91
Open and inviting, this is an elegant, charming claret with a real touch of class. Not big, but accessible and a pleasure to drink. An interesting mix of grapes, including a little Cabernet Franc (2%) and 6% Petit Verdot, with majority Cabernet Sauvignon (56%) and 36% Merlot to add interest; and good volumes produced to keep a sensible price.
2012
Château CantemerleHaut-Médoc
Château d'Armailhac, Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Fragrant, scented and full of charm, but lighter than its richer stablemate Château Clerc Milon, tasted at the same time. This was a good vintage...
2012
Château d'ArmailhacPauillac
Château d’Aiguilhe, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Warm and generous bouquet, well supported by sweet ripe fruit and good structure. As often, Stephan von Neipperg’s estate in Castillon offers great value. This...
2012
Château d’AiguilheCastillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
91
The sort of claret that tastes good young, middle-aged or old, keeping its purity of fresh fruit and refined silky texture. Not a big wine but a joy to drink.
2012
Château Grand-Puy-LacostePauillac
Château Hosanna, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2012
91
Fully mature and open, with the fragrance of Cabernet Franc very much in evidence. Elegant midweight claret, full of charm but short of depth of flavour.
2012
Château HosannaPomerol
Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012
Scented, plummy bouquet and attractive sweet fruit with plenty of charm. A wine that is uncomplicated but enjoyable to drink.
2012
Château TalbotSt-Julien
Château de Fonbel, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2012
89
A spicy, savoury yet fresh-tasting St-Emilion from Alain and Pauline Vauthier of Château Ausone. Majority Merlot, but 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Carmenère add depth and interest.
2012
Château de FonbelSt-Émilion
