California Pinot Noir: panel tasting results
What’s not to like? These deliciously fruit-filled, rich Pinot reds from around the Golden State’s regions scored consistently and highly.
Ronan Sayburn MS, James Doidge MW and Sarah Knowles MW tasted 66 wines with three Outstanding and 42 Highly Recommended
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release, 100% Pinot Noir still red wines priced at or above £30 or US$30
California Pinot Noir panel tasting scores
66 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 3
Highly recommended 42
Recommended 21
Commended 0
Fair 0
Poor 0
Faulty 0
The 2004 movie Sideways may have rekindled excitement for California Pinot Noir while simultaneously hammering a nail in the coffin of Merlot.
But while the characters in the film talked of this ethereal, ghost-like variety that danced across the palate, that may not have been the exact style of many Pinots at the time.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top California Pinot Noir wines
Particularly back then, but still today, winemakers have been guilty of producing jet-black, heavily oaked, alcoholic wines with little varietal character.
Thankfully the tide is turning and we are seeing a new generation focusing on elegance rather than power in their Pinots, following the lead of California pioneers of that style such as the late Burt Williams, Ted Lemon and Steve Kistler.
In this tasting, we had 66 wines from several California AVAs all classically associated with Pinot Noir.
The overall quality was very high – 45 wines (68%) scored 90 points or more (equivalent to a DWWA Silver medal), with three of those scoring 95pts Outstanding (Gold), and none below the Recommended level.
Sarah Knowles MW noted several ‘really approachable Pinots with character and style that offer a good glass of wine for immediate enjoyment’. James Doidge MW commented: ‘There was a remarkably broad range of styles, meaning there is something for everyone.’
In general, we found the best wines showed a Burgundian tension of acidity and tannins that would guarantee a long life, but with elegant ripe fruit that could also allow for early drinking.
Some were missing the mark, with slightly unbalanced alcohol levels or dominating flavours of new oak, but overall, all were well made.
At times, we found some heavy-handed winemaking influence, with residual sugar and vanilla oak bringing cola-like flavours.
These styles of wine may find domestic appeal in the US, but in the judges’ assessment were less suited to UK and European palates, unless priced at a very commercial level.
See all 66 California Pinot Noir tasting notes and scores
The use of whole-bunch fermentation varied. Including stems in the ferment is thought to lower colour and alcohol slightly while increasing tannins and adding a herbaceous, camphor-like character to the wines.
This is a contested subject in Burgundy (used by the likes of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti but not, for example, by Henri Jayer), but it is seemingly suited to warmer countries.
In our judges’ discussions, we occasionally noted this technique could be overpowering.
The best wines are found along California’s coastline or within valleys affected by the cool Pacific ocean influence. This climate creates a large diurnal shift in temperature by which acidity and freshness are preserved at night and in the mornings, and sugars and ripeness build during sunny afternoons. So site selection is vital to growing this tricky grape.
Its fickleness prompted the Godfather of Napa winemaking, André Tchelistcheff, to remark: ‘God made Cabernet Sauvignon, but the Devil made Pinot Noir.’
We found the Russian River wines had a generosity of dark cherry fruit, while the Sonoma Coast showed the variation that is inevitable in such a big area.
There were good wines from the Central Coast and Mendocino, but we unanimously felt the best came from the Santa Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County, displaying great complexity and finesse.
The vast majority of wines came from the 2019, 2018 and 2017 vintages which (despite the effects of wildfires) were good years for Pinot Noir.
While most are drinking well now, the best will likely still benefit from a few more years’ bottle age to show at their finest.
Top-scoring wines from the California Pinot Noir tasting:
The following 45 wines scored 90 points or above.
The judges
Ronan Sayburn MS is a DWWA Co-Chair, as well as the Regional Chair for the US. Head of wines at members’ club 67 Pall Mall, he runs his own consultancy and wine training company, RS Wine Academy, and is CEO at the Court of Master Sommeliers Europe.
James Doidge MW is buyer and managing director at The Wine Treasury, a specialist importer in London. He has a particular interest in the wines of the Americas and southern Europe, where he travels and tastes regularly. He became a Master of Wine in 2021.
Sarah Knowles MW is a buyer for The Wine Society, currently with responsibility for North America as well as Champagne and Italy. A Master of Wine since 2015, she is a DWWA judge and previously worked as a buyer for on-trade specialist Amathus Drinks.
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The Bien Nacido vineyards were planted by the early 1970s, and since then the fruit has been in great demand from winemakers throughout California. The...
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Melville, Estate, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2018
Melville is dedicated to producing exceptional cool-climate Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay grown exclusively in its estate vineyards throughout the Sta Rita Hills appellation,...
2018
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Fess Parker, Pommard Clone, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2018
Former actor Fess Parker purchased the 289ha Foxen Canyon Ranch in 1988, initially to run cattle with a few acres of vineyard. Eli Parker and...
2018
Fess ParkerSanta Barbara County
Fess Parker, Clone 115, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2018
Very elegant nose with essence of cherry and blackcurrant, strawberry and raspberry with hints of chocolate chips. Full-bodied but well-balanced, quite rich and intense with...
2018
Fess ParkerSanta Barbara County
Kutch, McDougall Ranch, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2018
Dense and concentrated nose full of dark cherries, kirsch, cola, vanilla and chocolate with hints of savoury notes. Deep and rich, with pleasing grainy-textured tannins...
2018
KutchSonoma Coast
La Crema, Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, California, USA, 2019
Harmonious aromas of summer fruits, cola, dark cherry and plums. Precise on the palate with savoury notes and a lovely fine-grained tannic structure.
2019
La CremaSonoma County
Au Bon Climat, Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Santa Barbara County, Santa Ynez Valley, California, USA, 2018
Lifted nose displaying lovely red fruit and cherry scents with notes of vanilla and earth. Supple tannins with a floral and spicy character on the...
2018
Au Bon ClimatSanta Barbara County
Solomon Hills, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, California, USA, 2018
Fresh nose of tart red cherry, ripe raspberry with herbal notes and hints of baking spices. Vibrant acidity on the palate with solid fine-grained tannins.
2018
Solomon HillsSanta Barbara County
Patz & Hall, Hyde Vineyard, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, California, USA, 2019
Pure red fruit with notes of dark cherries and a slight touch of vanilla. Classy palate, with concentrated black fruit, ending with a silky long...
2019
Patz & HallNapa Valley
Fess Parker, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2019
Ripe nose displaying scents of red berries, sour cherry, violets and mushrooms. Smooth tannins, lush and vibrant, quite elegant with a persistent finish.
2019
Fess ParkerSanta Barbara County
Paul Hobbs, Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, California, USA, 2018
Intense aromas of sweet cherry and strawberry with oaky and leathery notes. Crunchy acidity on the palate with polished tannins.
2018
Paul HobbsSonoma County
Mount Eden Vineyards, Domaine Eden, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, USA, 2017
Floral and elegant nose showing violets, sour cherry and very ripe redcurrant and strawberry. Lively acidity with grainy tannins and a lifted finish.
2017
Mount Eden VineyardsSan Francisco Bay
Lucia Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Monterey County, Santa Lucia Highlands, California, USA, 2018
Earthy nose with notes of tea leaf, black pepper, sweet black cherry and hints of smoke and vanilla. Lush and rich on the palate.
2018
Lucia VineyardsMonterey County
Domaine de la Côte, Memorious, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2018
Dark nose of bramble, hawthorn with deep smokey concentrated fruit over violet and pepper undertones. Fresh on the palate with grainy tannins.
2018
Domaine de la CôteSanta Barbara County
Fess Parker, Parker West Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2018
Smoky aromas of roasted meat and earthy notes of mushroom with minty nuances. Complex, sophisticated and nuanced, with elegance and finesse.
2018
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Schug, Pinot Noir, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, California, USA, 2019
Aromas of cranberry, redcurrant, violets and vanilla. The palate is fresh and lush with a vibrant acidity and well-resolved tannins.
2019
SchugNapa Valley
Banshee, Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, California, USA, 2019
Fresh nose with very pure red berry aromas over hints of sweet spices. Creamy texture, with peppery touches and a refreshing finish.
2019
BansheeSonoma County
Twomey, Pinot Noir, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley, California, USA, 2019
Bright red cherry and strawberry aromas with notes of oak. Vibrant on the palate with silky tannins, pure and fresh.
2019
TwomeyMendocino County
Zotovich, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2019
Complex and elegant nose displaying notes of caramel, vanilla, black cherry and smokey bacon fat notes. Rich and intense with a long finish.
2019
ZotovichSanta Barbara County
J Lohr, Fog's Reach, Monterey County, Arroyo Seco, California, USA, 2019
Bright and concentrated aromas of raspberry, minty strawberry, sweet cherry and violets. Lush and fruity with well-integrated fine tannins.
2019
J LohrMonterey County
Bien Nacido Vineyards, Old Vines, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, California, USA, 2018
Vibrant cherry and strawberry fruit with rhubarb and tart cranberry nuances. Elegant and a little herbal with a violet-scented finish.
2018
Bien Nacido VineyardsSanta Barbara County
Domaine Carneros, Famous Gate, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, California, USA, 2017
Complex herbal and smokey nose with cherry and raspberry fruit, chocolate and leathery aromas. Vibrant style with a spicy finish.
2017
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Masút, Estate Pinot Noir, Mendocino County, California, USA, 2019
Tutti frutti candied nose with notes of strawberry, gummy bear, black pepper and perfumed floral nuances. Delicious and elegant with fine-grained tannins.
2019
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Schug, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2020
Pure red fruit character with intense aromas of cherry, cola and forest floor. Lovely focused palate, elegant with a bright acidity.
2020
SchugSonoma Coast
Anthill Farms, Comptche Ridge, Mendocino County, California, USA, 2018
Youthful aromas of dark cherry, black tea, black pepper and hints of vanilla. Sandy tannins supported by very concentrated flavours.
2018
Anthill FarmsMendocino County
Price Family Estates, Three Sticks, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2019
Herbal and spicy aromas with notes of pencil shaving, tea leaf, black pepper and cardamom over black cherry notes. Polished with chocolatey fruit flavours.
2019
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Calera, Ryan Vineyard, San Benito County, Mount Harlan, California, USA, 2016
Concentrated aromas of dark berry fruit, kirsch, black pepper and chocolate. Youthful palate with rich fruit cake flavours.
2016
CaleraSan Benito County
Failla, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2018
Floral aromas with scents of black cherry, strawberry confiture and forest floor. Elegant and seductive, with silky tannins.
2018
FaillaSonoma Coast
Hahn, SLH, Monterey County, Santa Lucia Highlands, California, USA, 2018
Sour cherry, cardamom, vanilla and earthy nuances. Savoury on the palate, it combines lush fruit with elegance.
2018
HahnMonterey County
Spell Estate, Nichole's Blend, Sonoma County, California, USA, 2014
Spicy nose with notes of tobacco, forest floor and herbal undertones. Concentrated summer fruit on the palate.
2014
Spell EstateSonoma County
Calera, Mills Vineyard, San Benito County, Mount Harlan, California, USA, 2016
Lifted minty nose showing aromas of orange peel, earth and coffee. Very elegant tannins and fresh acidity.
2016
CaleraSan Benito County
Brewer-Clifton, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2019
Lovely floral aromas, black cherry and strawberry, mushroom and earth. A powerful and rich style with seamless tannins.
2019
Brewer-CliftonSanta Barbara County
L'Usine Cellars, Sleepy Hollow, Monterey County, Santa Lucia Highlands, California, USA, 2018
Rich vanilla aromas under forest floor, coffee and dark fruit notes. Rich and intense, big and solid.
2018
L'Usine CellarsMonterey County
J Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, California, USA, 2019
Rich and voluptuous, with fresh red berry and cherry fruit and almond essence notes. Smooth, fresh and vibrant.
2019
J VineyardsSonoma County
Bien Nacido Vineyards, The Captain Reserve, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, California, USA, 2018
Baked fruit and vanilla aromas. Broad palate with plummy fruit balanced by a fresh and lively acidity.
2018
Bien Nacido VineyardsSanta Barbara County
Patz & Hall, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2018
Earthy on the nose with red berry and spice aromas. Vibrant and bright, very pure and fruit driven.
2018
Patz & HallSonoma Coast
Peake Ranch, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2019
Complex nose of cherry, cola, vanilla and coffee. Opulent and rich, creamy on the palate with a vibrant finish.
2019
Peake RanchSanta Barbara County
Copain, Tous Ensemble, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2017
Perfumed nose showing summer fruits, crushed violets and a bit of vanilla. Lively acidity supported by a ripe concentration.
2017
CopainSonoma Coast
Donelan Wines, Two Brothers, Sonoma County, California, USA, 2014
Savoury aromas of earth, marmite, mushrooms and orange peel with some floral notes. Quite a long finish.
2014
Donelan WinesSonoma County
Twomey, Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, California, USA, 2019
Bright red fruit and herbal aromas with notes of rosemary and mint. Very pleasing grainy tannins, polished.
2019
TwomeySonoma County
MacMurray, Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, California, USA, 2018
Youthful nose of cherry fruit, yoghurt, chocolate and coffee. Savoury on the palate, with richness and concentration.
2018
MacMurraySonoma County
Radio-Coteau, La Neblina, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2017
Refined notes of cedar wood, dark fruit and vanilla. Polished, with very concentrated black fruit flavours, long.
2017
Radio-CoteauSonoma Coast
Goldeneye, Gowan Creek Vineyard, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley, California, USA, 2017
Fresh and open nose of dried strawberry, black cherry and sweet spice undertones. Full on the palate with grippy tannins.
2017
GoldeneyeMendocino County
Ondine Chattan, Barrel Select Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County, California, USA, 2018
Meaty nose with peppery notes and dark coffee undertones over sweet cherry fruit. Full and deep on the palate.
2018
Ondine ChattanSonoma County
