Champagne Lanson Vintage Collection vertical: 1961 – 2004
Peter Liem attended a special Collection retrospective, tasting 19 Lanson vintage champagnes spanning five decades, and finding its reputation for longevity well-deserved.
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Lanson’s vintage Champagne is legendary among those in the know, highly prized for its scintillating finesse and exceptional longevity.
The house’s track record is long and distinguished, and many Champagne connoisseurs fondly remember the Red Label, as Lanson’s vintage cuvée was known in the 1960s and 1970s, packaged in a unique and distinctive bottle shape known as the ‘quille’.
Scroll down to see scores and tasting notes for 19 vintages of Lanson Vintage Collection
Vintage Collection: rare and iconic
There were five vintages released in this format—1964, 1966, 1969, 1971 and 1975 (there were some bottles of 1961 that were also transferred into the quille but that were originally made in regular bottles) – but after 1975, this was discontinued, partly due to unwanted connotations related to Johnnie Walker’s Red Label whisky.
The 1976, bottled in a normal champagne bottle, was labelled simply as a vintage brut, and this continued up until the 1989 vintage, which was the first to be called Gold Label, aligning with Lanson’s branding of other cuvées such as the Black Label brut and the Rose Label rosé. While this enjoyed great success, in 2020 Lanson rebranded its line-up once more, and the vintage cuvée is now labelled ‘Le Vintage’, beginning with the current release of 2009.
Since 2012, Lanson has also re-released older vintages under the label Collection. These are mostly in magnum, due to that format’s superior ageability, although some 75cl bottles are also available.
As of this writing, there are 13 vintages of Collection, from 1976 to 1999, and all are aged in the cellar sur pointe on their lees, with a limited number periodically disgorged to order, dosed at 3g/L.
Even rarer are vintages older than 1976, which are not technically part of the Collection program, but which can occasionally appear at auction, released directly from the house.
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See all Decanter’s Champagne Lanson scores and tasting notes
In July 2021, I was invited by Lanson to taste a Collection retrospective, including a number of older vintages back to 1961, as well as a preview of a couple of future releases. These were all in magnum, and with the exception of the 1982, they were all disgorged within the last four years (the 2002 and 2004, which have not yet been released as Collection, were disgorged by hand the morning of the tasting).
Consistent elegance, trademark ageability
The cuvée has remained remarkably consistent over the past six decades: it’s almost equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with the latter usually in slightly higher proportion, and it’s principally from grand cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, although in the past it has also included some top premier crus such as Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Dizy or Trépail.
It’s made entirely without malolactic fermentation, a signature of the Lanson style, and besides imparting structure and vivacity, this seems to also bestow a certain finesse and clarity of flavour.
Its reputation for longevity is also well-deserved, as these tasting notes indicate, with all of the wines appearing vibrant, energetic and even youthful —keep in mind that these were all in magnum, and the same wines in 75cl bottles would likely also be enjoyable but different in character, even assuming perfect storage.
Disgorgement also has a role to play, although I am not of the opinion that the most recently disgorged versions are necessarily the best, and a number of these wines appeared to have benefited from some post-disgorgement age.
I would be quite pleased to find examples of older disgorgements, and I expect all of these wines to continue to enjoy a long and slow development in the cellar.
Champagne Lanson: 19 vintages of Vintage Collection
Wines are shown by vintage, in ascending order. Selected vintages are available in the UK from The Champagne Company.
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1961

While this feels slightly more developed than the magisterial 1964, it remains vibrant and vital, with an authoritative grip and a pure, radiant intensity. It’s...
1961
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1964

Disgorged in September 2020, this is 57% Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Verzy, Bouzy, Trépail and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, and 43% Chardonnay from Cramant, Avize, Le Mesnil and...
1964
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1969

Immediately apparent in this wine is the authoritative density typical of 1960s Champagne – not simply girth or weight, but a subtle resonance and a...
1969
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1971

This is 50% Chardonnay from Chouilly, Cramant, Avize and Oger, and 50% Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Mailly, Bouzy and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Disgorged in March 2021, it...
1971
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1975

This 1975 Lanson is both more complex and more mature than its 1976 counterpart, contrasting an opulent depth of fruit with a vibrant, tightly-wound structure....
1975
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1976

This has an unusually high proportion of Chardonnay for Lanson: 53% of the blend is Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil and Trépail, while the...
1976
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1979

Disgorged in January of 2020, this comes from just four crus: 52% is Pinot Noir from Verzenay and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, while the remaining 48% is Chardonnay...
1979
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1981

From a relatively unheralded vintage in Champagne, this is 54% Pinot Noir from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Dizy and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, and 46% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant and...
1981
ChampagneFrance
Lanson
Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1982

This magnum was disgorged earlier than the others in this tasting, in November 2011, which greatly influences its character: rather than becoming more oxidative, it’s...
1982
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1983

Vintage Lanson is not necessarily pure grand cru, and yet this 1983 is the last to date to contain premier cru grapes, with 56% of...
1983
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1985

Perhaps due to this year’s small, frost-affected harvest, this comes from just three crus: the Chardonnay is from Cramant and Oger, accounting for 48% of...
1985
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1988

This is made from a relatively restricted set of crus compared to some other Lanson vintages: 51% is Pinot Noir from Bouzy, Verzenay and Aÿ,...
1988
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1989

Avize, normally a key component of a Lanson's vintage blend, is conspicuously absent in this 1989; the 44% Chardonnay comes from Oger, Cramant and Chouilly,...
1989
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1990

At 31 years of age, this is noticeably deeper in colour than the younger wines in this tasting. It is 54% Pinot Noir from Aÿ,...
1990
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1995

Disgorged in September 2018, this is in the full splendour of maturity, balancing developed aromas of brown butter, brioche and white mushroom with an exuberant...
1995
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1996

Like many 1996s, this is strongly marked by the personality of the vintage: it’s recognisably Lanson in its detailed refinement and pronounced finesse, yet it’s...
1996
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 1998

This is a blend of equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the former coming from Avize, Cramant and Le Mesnil, and the latter from Verzenay,...
1998
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 2002

Disgorged the morning of the tasting, this is a blend of 53% Pinot Noir from Aÿ, Verzy, Verzenay and Louvois, and 47% Chardonnay from Cramant,...
2002
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Lanson, Vintage Collection, Champagne, France, 2004

This, along with the 2002, was a preview of a future release, disgorged the morning of the tasting. It’s 52% Pinot Noir from Aÿ, Verzy,...
2004
ChampagneFrance
Lanson
