Château du Moulin-À-Vent: vertical tasting 2010 to 2019

Located in the northern end of Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent has a reputation for being one of the best of the 10 Beaujolais Crus but also one that is structured, powerful and age worthy.

An intriguing vertical tasting (2010-2019) from the revitalised Château du Moulin-à-Vent confirmed the latter characteristic, while reaffirming that the age-old view of the appellation as a sturdy, traditional (and sometimes rustic) wine is in need of revision.

With investment in both vineyard and wineries, together with the arrival of a new generation of young winemakers, Moulin-à-Vent is emerging as a more elegant and refined example of the Gamay grape. Still capable of long-ageing, many wines are now perfumed, smooth on the palate and very pleasurable while young. And all of this is combined with price-points which are extremely attractive in the context of good Pinot Noir from Burgundy.

Scroll down to see scores and notes for the 2010-2019 vertical, plus four other Château du Moulin-à-Vent wines, including the 1976

The Moulin-à-Vent appellation comprises around 620 hectares, with around 300 producers and annual production of around 1.5 million bottles. Distinctly different from other well-known Beaujolais Crus such as Morgon and Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent’s character is heavily influenced by the presence of decomposed, pink granitic soils which add to the wines fragrance when young but allow it to age for 10+ years when it develops many characters akin to Pinot Noir. The presence of manganese and iron oxides in certain locations are additional factors contributing to the appellation’s complex geology, with 69 lieux-dits named.

Old vines

The AP was one of France’s earliest (established in 1936), a year which coincided with the Château des Thorins becoming known as Château du Moulin-à-Vent. Located in in the hameau of Les Thorins, the Château lies between Romanèche-Thorins and Chénas, the latter village being located further up the slope. Old Gamay Noir vines are planted in high-density, with the famous Moulin (windmill) located about halfway up the hill where, not surprisingly, it is the windiest.

The Parinet family took over the domaine in 2009 and have re-energised this ancient domaine with a focus on its 23 lieux-dits. Massal selections, improving the soil, pruning techniques and leaf canopy management are all techniques which have been implemented, together with a dramatic switch to sustainable viticulture.

The domaine is currently working towards full organic certification with the 2013 the first vintage with 100% organic viticulture. Winemaking has also been adjusted with the amount of wood reduced with the 2016 vintage, at the same time as extended ageing with long periods in stainless steel following blending.

Modern techniques

Edouard Parinet now runs the domaine, with Brice Laffond as winemaker. Their philosophy is to modernise the style of Moulin-à-Vent whilst emphasising the distinct characteristics of the lieux-dits and through single-vineyard bottlings.

Winemaking is adapted to the specific requirements of each vintage with varying use of de-stemming, whole-bunch, length of maceration and size/type of maturation vessel.

The tasting certainly demonstrated a distinct shift in style with the change in oak management. Whereas the older vintages (although with undoubted ageing potential) demonstrated a firmer tannic structure, the more recent vintages were much more expressive, floral, delicate and refined. However, there is every reason to suspect that these wines will deliver the same ageing capacity as the more ‘traditional’ style.

The potential for top Moulin-à-Vent to age was demonstrated with the pouring of the domaine’s 1976 at lunch. I have been lucky enough to taste quite a few fine Bordeaux, Burgundy and Napa Valley wines from that decade but this seemed to be more vibrant, vivid in colour, and more full of life than any other I can remember. A great testament to what can happen with careful cellaring, as well as the potential for this top Beaujolais Cru to be considered alongside the finest Pinot Noir wines from a little further to the north.

Château du Moulin-à-Vent vertical 2010-2019

Wines are listed in ascending vintage order

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