Chianti Classico annata: New releases in 2024

From Jurij Fiore’s highest holdings in Lamole, reaching 650 metres, the south- to southwest-facing site boasts plantings over 75 years old and includes small portions of grapes like Colorino and Canaiolo Nero. Aged in 30% new barrels, it is concentrated in its captivating earthy aromas of jasmine, peppermint, anise and rooibos tea. Savoury rather than fruity, the spry palate picks up those exotic spices and flowers on a cranberry backdrop. The acidity is piercing, and long, silky tannins build to a serious grip. Bitter chocolate and rosemary appear on the back end, then the finish reverberates with all the wine’s intricate nuances.

Based in Radda, Tenuta di Carleone farms several parcels throughout this sector and beyond. The focus is always on high altitude sites, from which Sean O’Callaghan coaxes extraordinary purity of Sangiovese while confidently pushing the boundaries of winemaking. The 2021 is another beautiful success: it marries floral scents of rose and lilac with spicy herbs and summer berries. On the palate, plump cherries drip with succulent juiciness. Then, assertive chalky tannins take hold, drawing the wine out with savoury length. Very satisfying.

While Isole e Olena’s vineyards did suffer some minor frost damage in 2021, former owner Paolo de Marchi said it wasn’t dramatic, and fans will be happy to know that there is still ample quantity of this flag-bearing Chianti Classico. Bit by bit, it reveals characteristic nuances of brushwood, currants, rosehip, strawberry and pepper. Succulent and light on feet, the palate is judiciously concentrated with pure and persistent red berries. Taut, integrated tannins provide definition, and it trails off with garden-fresh herbs. This should give plenty of pleasure over the next eight to 10 years.

The inaugural release, Altolà is the only one of Jurij Fiore’s Chianti Classico wines not from the Lamole township. Instead, the vineyard is found across the Greve Valley, on Montefioralle’s upper clay slopes at 450 metres. Toasty, macerated red cherry is complemented by hints of clove. The sweet spice-infused palate is round, full and lush. Yet underneath a sumptuousness of fruit, this is mineral edged, with zippy acidity, while pliant tannins grip on the finish. This textural and flavourful red should show some of its more subtle nuances with time.

Produced since 2015, Puntodivista is one of Jurij and Sara Fiore’s first wines under their eponymous label and comes from a densely planted vineyard of 10,000 bush-trained vines per hectare. The 50-year-old Sangiovese is co-fermented with a dash of other local varieties. Eucalyptus, sandalwood and white pepper scents are joined by a hint of cinnamon. The wood is a bit pronounced and upfront, giving broad, grainy tannins, but underneath, an intense core of juicy blood orange rings out. While powerful, it remains sinewy in muscle and midweight. Vertical, energetic and in need of time.

Trained enologist, Diego Finocchi counts five hectares spread over three different hills, all within the district of Radda. As with the 2020 vintage, the 2021 sees a higher percentage of Canaiolo Nero., which is co-fermented with Sangiovese to enhance aromas and lend immediate drinkability. Very territorial in its scents of cranberry, raspberry bush, spicy herbs and allspice with a trace of mocha, the dark, fleshy red cherry flavours provide depth of fruit and volume, yet this is midweight. Racy integrated acidity draws it effortlessly across the palate, making the smooth tannins seem like an afterthought. Slate-like minerals are artfully tucked in. Genuine, full of soul and so deliciously drinkable.

Reaching almost 600 metres above sea level, the west-facing, terraced vineyard was planted in 2008 and yields a low 25hl/ha. Refined in equal proportions of stainless steel, new and second-use barrels, this is the fullest and densest fruit of Jurij Fiore’s Lamole bottlings – yet still isn’t huge. Initial oak notes of mint, nutmeg and toast morph into cedar-inflected cherry and strawberry. There is a lashing of vanillin on the palate, and the tannins are chewy and just a bit dry, but then zesty acidity and a bitter chinotto note kick in and it finishes fresh and feisty.

Hailing from a vineyard at 580 metres above sea level, Sonocosì refines for just a few months in concrete to achieve a fresh expression of Sangiovese, the intention being to hold a mirror up to the Lamole district. The nose burst with the freshest of raspberries backed up by rose, lilac and juniper. Crunchy pomegranate and blood orange are elevated by frisky acidity, and the tannins are light with a fine, powdery texture, cleansing the palate while leaving behind persistent nuances of alpine herbs and citrus zest. A thrilling expression of unwooded Sangiovese.

As production was down by 40% due to spring frost and drought conditions, winemaker Tim Manning made one single Chianti Classico, foregoing a Riserva bottling for the second year in a row. For this annata, he used a slightly higher percentage of whole clusters than usual, and a long maceration of 90 days, giving intense aromas of liquorice, oregano and dewy forest growth. The palate is decidedly spicy, bringing a peppery snap to those herb nuances. Bitter orange and strawberry pop through the core. Persistent flavours are protracted by focused acidity, while smooth, elegant tannins give seamless support. Seemingly lightweight, but stealthy power simmers.

Once again, Poggerino’s Piero Lanza puts out one of the most successful annata of the vintage thus far. His 11 hectares in Radda sit mainly on Galestro soil with an underpinning of clay rather than sand, giving seriously structured wines. Dense fruit and spice greet the nose, with glossy dark red cherry, mint and cinnamon following through on the palate. Impressive substance is backed up by chewy, layered tannins, gracious rather than austere, dissolving slowly into the crunchy currants that draw out the finish. Vibrant and impressive.

San Giusto a Rentennano’s 32 hectares are spread throughout the sunlit southern tip of Gaiole in an area called Monti. Here, the soil alternates between marine sand and limestone-rich Alberese. Crafted from a first selection of all 30 plots, the annata is profuse in expression, and it's easy to get lost in nuances of spiced cherry, fennel and sundried tomato. Whiffs of coffee and plum blossom join in. Expansive though not heavy, the palate is laden with luscious dark plum and cherry. There is an obvious ripeness, yet it tightens up with each sip. Compact, layered tannins have a subtle chalky fee, and it finishes with its signature refreshing bitter orange twist.

Roberto Bianchi describes the 2020 growing season as up and down, with variable temperatures and rainfall. Uneven ripening required multiple passages at harvest. Yet this is really textbook Radda here, the coolness of the zone amplified by Val delle Corti’s northeast-facing vineyards. A pale yet bright ruby colour is matched by pristine, transparent aromas of raspberry and pomegranate. Midweight with stony, succulent acidity and fine, chalky tannins, the stunning lightness of being does not exclude depth and flavour, and this pops with red cherry fruit and a mint blossom and white pepper perfume.

A blend of warm, southwest-facing plots with cooler northeast-facing parcels, Tommaso Marzi-Marrocchesi favours larger, juicier berries and gives a short maceration (maximum two weeks) with a gentle extraction, aiming for immediate drinkability. Ageing is in concrete. This wafts with a tangle of garden herbs – mint, tarragon and fennel – and a trace of vanillin. A concentrated core of ripe red cherry is well weighted without being hefty. Citrussy acidity keeps it buoyant, and chalky grape tannins lend texture. Very drinkable indeed.

In the upper slopes of Castellina, Castagnoli tends 11 hectares of south- to southwest-facing terraced vineyards. A blend of all 19 plots, the 2022 annata has harnessed the warmth of the vintage with admirable balance of ripeness. Nuances of cherry and currant are pure and fresh, while fragrant thyme and tobacco lend aromatic and flavour complexity. While there is a distinct sweetness to the fruit, it is neatly juxtaposed by a savoury earthiness. Powdery tannins girdle its full figure, and succulent acidity propels the persistent finish.

In 2022, harvest started mid-September with younger Sangiovese vines planted on marine sand, which make up the backbone of this annata. The youthful purple colour suggests a healthy dash of Colorino. Deep red cherry and wild strawberry are suffused with fragrant Mediterranean herbs and a distinct note of orange blossom. Amply packed with tangy, tart berries, the palate is speckled with light, grainy tannins which lend textural nuance. A snap of pepper and savoury salinity stimulate the appetite. This has the guts to stand up to herb-crusted pork loin.

In the southern reaches of Panzano, Il Molino di Grace just escaped being in the path of 2022’s mid-August hail. Giving a full yield, harvest started in the third week of September and finished at the end of the second week of October. The annata bottling encapsulates the season’s heat with a slightly wild overtone. Aromas of dried violet, dark cherry compote, leather and chestnut intensify with each sniff. Mouthfilling and flavourful, it is laden with late summer berries enveloped in grainy tannins while retaining a brightness and lift, and finishes with a bitter root twist.

Rising steeply from 350 to 550 metres above sea level, Poggio Scalette’s stone-terraced vineyards sit in the upper, arid reaches of the Greve Valley. Matured in concrete rather than wood, the annata gives a keen sense of place through its pure fruit expression. It is attractively scented with thyme and sage blossoms emerging from warm, dusty earth, and there's an ease and joyfulness to the red-berried palate without being oversimplified. The tannins are lightly chalky, and tangy acidity stimulates the appetite.

As with the 2021, the 2022 demonstrates both the warm microclimate of San Casciano and the balmy summer temperatures through the ripeness of fruit and sweetness of tannins. It seems to pack in even more than the previous vintage while remaining balanced, juicy and satiating. Boisterous aromas of eucalyptus and leather are matched by dark fruit tones. The palate is replete with black currant and blackberry, and there is quite a chew to those tannins. As always, excellent value here.

The estate’s Chianti Classico vineyards are at the northern limit of the zone, in the warm district of San Casciano. For the annata, a dash of Malvasia Nera is co-fermented with Sangiovese, while the Merlot is vinified separately. Aged in third-passage French oak barriques, it is polished and polite. Aromas are discreet yet attractive, ranging from cedar and garden herbs to cinnamon and nutmeg. The palate is plush with blueberry pie and fresh blackberry flavours, tapering off quickly with a pop of vanilla. Gentle tannins are nestled in.

Silvio Messana captures the spirit of annata beautifully in this 2022, evoking the territory in a ready to drink package. Canaiolo and Colorino are co-fermented and blended with Sangiovese, which sees a modest maceration of eight to 10 days. Ageing is predominantly in cement casks. Understated mint and bramble bush nuances weave through red currants. The palate is midweight and very much raspberry in flavour. Dusty, gentle tannins possess just enough mouth-cleansing astringency. Ultimately, this expresses more earthy minerals than an overt fruitiness – all with an energetic bounce.

When I visited Paneretta pre-harvest in mid-September of 2021, owner Alberto Albisetti admitted his agitation. After losing 30% of his production to frost, the vines suffered minor damage from hail and were struggling with the ongoing drought. Despite the challenges, the resulting annata is ripe, robust and concentrated, with a sweet-yet-savoury personality. Characteristically perfumed, it radiates mint, medicinal herbs and candied red cherry with a generous dollop of roasted oak. There are plenty of tannins shoring this up: tight and dry, they lend some longevity to the wine and offset the underlying sweet spice accents.

This centuries-old farming estate was revitalised by entrepreneur, Paolo Nocentini who oversaw the conversion to organic cultivation in the mid-1990s. The annata bottling contains a small percentage of Syrah, which lends a plushness to the wine. Attractive black cherry and lilac nuances are joined by a vanilla thread on the palate. Ripe but not overdone or heavy, it remains clean and quenching, its yielding tannins and soft acidity making for a very approachable, easy sip. A bit more style over place, but ultimately likeable.

Neighbouring the Castello di Volpaia and Montevertine estates, Podere Terreno is a former sharecropping farm in northern Radda. Today the small, six-hectare property is owned by the Grilli family. The annata appeals with scents of red cherry, raspberry, sweet earth and warm stone. Vertical and modest in concentration, the brambly fruit palate sports a pleasant tartness and barely-there tannins. It shows its mineral side as it tapers off. Ready to drink.