Chianti Classico Gran Selezione: New releases rated

For me, keeping up with Gran Selezione means an ever-increasing number of wines to taste: since being introduced just 11 years ago, the category has grown from just 33 labels to 187 estates producing 245 different bottlings at the last count.

The quality and diversity are compelling, and for the the most part, prices have yet to become exaggerated. Premiumisation is to be expected of course, but the future success of the category depends on it not becoming completely out of reach.

There are still a number of producers who abstain for their own reasons, however Gran Selezione is now well represented, from the smallest of entities to the largest of enterprises.

Scroll down to see Michaela’s pick of Gran Selezione new releases

Significantly, one of the region’s most prominent and historic estates, Antinori, presents a grand total of three new Gran Selezione this year.

This brings their total to four, each from a different Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGA). Unlike the Badia a Passignano bottling from San Donato in Poggio (130,000 bottles annually), the new labels from Gaiole, San Casciano and Castellina are limited to just 5,000 bottles each.

‘These won’t change the balance sheet at Antinori,’ notes technical director Dora Pacciani. ‘They were made for our passion because we believe in the Chianti Classico region and the UGA project.’

Certainly, the UGA have been a driver in the race to the top. ‘It is also partly a question of communication,’ Monica Raspi at Pomona points out. ‘The consorzio continues to focus on promoting Gran Selezione rather than Riserva.’

Given that her l’Omino Vigna Pomona corresponds to the category’s regulations, she decided to upgrade it from Riserva to Gran Selezione and it is among my top picks from a strong showing of 2021s.

See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report

Testament to success

The latest Gran Selezione releases are further testament to the vintage’s widespread success. They demonstrate great balance of rich, complex structure with fruit depth, distinctiveness and energy.

Antinori’s new bottlings are truly exciting – I was particularly impressed with the San Sano from Gaiole.

Also from the UGA of Gaiole, Castello di Ama puts out another stellar trio. The estate’s San Lorenzo gets an extra tip of the hat for the value for money it offers.

From Montefioralle, Terreno’s Sillano stands out for its brilliant illustration of grace at Chianti Classico’s highest level.

Equally notable is Isola delle Falcole’s fifth-ever vintage from a vineyard in the wilds of Panzano.

To date, it is the estate’s only Chianti Classico label, and the decision to position it at the top of the pyramid is significant for owner Emanuele Graetz. ‘Gran Selezione is our most powerful weapon to make the world understand that Chianti Classico is a fine wine territory’, he asserts.

Graetz is convinced that the best of these will be equated with the greatest Barolo and Burgundy, ‘both in terms of quality and price’.

Odds and ends

The 2021s are not necessarily austere but a year or two longer in bottle wouldn’t hurt, and most fall within a 10- to 15-year range of ageing potential.

Alongside 2021, a smattering of nascent 2022s were trotted out. However, the apparent direction is for producers to give their Gran Selezione longer in bottle before releasing them.

Among those I did try, Castello di Volpaia’s Coltassala and Castello di Querceto’s La Corte cast the vintage in a flattering light. I was also privy to a stunning sneak peek of Istine’s collection, which includes two new Gran Selezione – one from Lamole and the other from Vagliagli.

Note that these UGA (like Montefioralle) won’t be permitted on the label until 2027.

This year there are also dozens of late releases from 2020 and 2019. From the former, Castello di Monsanto (San Donato in Poggio), I Fabbri (Lamole) and Monteraponi’s Il Bragantino (Radda), along with Rocca di Montegrossi 2019 Vigneto San Marcellino (Gaiole) are cellar-worthy gems.

Across this range of vintages, it was gratifying to perceive a movement towards exalting territory over style, and, above all, a throughline of freshness even in progressively warmer years.

What’s happening in Chianti Classico?

Discussions with wineries about strategies in the cellar revealed a growing trend to include whole berries. Sophie Conti at Tregole began experimenting with this in 2021 to soften her wines, and has found it encourages a more delicate extraction.

‘The result is a crunchier wine with greater brightness of fruit’, she asserts.

Altitude was another recurring theme. Under new ownership, Isole e Olena is currently completing a new terraced vineyard at 500 metres – the maximum elevation of the estate.

Furthermore, the small, lofty enclave of Lamole has become a buzz of activity with producers outside the district securing small plots.

Along with Istine’s inaugual Elle bottling is Fontodi’s newest offering, Pastrolo, and Querciabella’s Gran Selezione now includes fruit from recently acquired holdings there.

Michaela’s top-rated Chianti Classico Gran Seleziones released in 2025:

See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report

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