Chianti Classico Riserva Vineyard overlooking Isole_ credit Lincoln Clarkes
Vineyard overlooking the hamlet of Isole.
(Image credit: Lincoln Clarkes)

With an ever-increasing number of Gran Selezione labels – either new wines or more significantly Riservas that have been ‘promoted’ – a logical assumption is that Chianti Classico’s middle category might be shrinking.

Yet in terms of total production percentages, the opposite is actually true. In 2018, the Chianti Classico consorzio reported a 64/32 split between annata and Riserva, based on a 10-year average.

Nevertheless, given the high quality of annata wines and the focus on promoting Gran Selezione, Riserva might seem like a tougher sell – but this is not necessarily so.

According to consortium president Giovanni Manetti, the premiumisation of the denomination led by Gran Selezione has benefitted the entire gamut, especially Riserva.

‘With the increase of renown (and consequently, price), new room was created at the mid-point price range that fits Riserva perfectly,’ he asserts.


Scroll down for Michaela’s top-rated Chianti Classico Riserva from the new releases


Holding the middle ground

Laura Bianchi at Castello di Monsanto, confirms that they have not experienced a decreased demand for Riserva since the Gran Selezione category was introduced.

‘The two categories reinforce each other,’ she says, adding, ‘Riserva wines still have a central role because they offer a balance between accessibility and complexity.’

Roberto Stucchi Prinetti at Badia a Coltibuono concurs, saying: ‘The perception of many is that the quality/price rapport of the Riserva triumphs, and its more classic and elegant style is much appreciated.’

The estate’s new 2020 Riserva release embodies both the finesse and value to which he refers.

On the other hand, with respect solely to style, some estates’ Riserva bottlings represent the most muscular, concentrated wines within their range, and may also be a repository for the international grapes that will soon be prohibited from Gran Selezione.

Viticcio’s well-executed 2020 Riserva is a case in point.

Beyond the aforementioned, most of the Riserva I previewed hailed from 2022 and 2021; vintages that are respectively very good and excellent. That said, it is the category in which I found the most variability.


See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report


Some exhibited more explicit wood without more obvious ageing potential than their annata counterparts; or they simply lacked a compelling identity. Yet the Riserva category also includes some of the region’s most distinctive wines.

Many are from producers that don’t (yet) produce Gran Selezione, namely Cigliano di Sopra, Maurizio Alongi and Val delle Corti.

As for those that do make wine at all three levels, both Istine and Monteraponi’s 2022 Riservas stand shoulder to shoulder quality-wise with their Gran Selezione. And from 2019, Castell’in Villa’s Riserva was among my highest scoring wines across all categories.

Working hard in the vineyard

‘If you told me 20 years ago that I would use nets to mitigate heat, I would have laughed’.

In particular, the 2021 and 2022 growing seasons were both marked by the warming, drying trend associated with climate change, the latter most intensely. Riserva highlights from these vintages underscore producers’ concerted efforts in the vineyard to mitigate those effects.

For example, the Ormanni estate has moved away from deep tilling and applies kaolin – a natural clay mineral to the vines, which acts as a natural sunscreen. The 2021 Borro del Diavolo is one of the more robust examples, yet it retains intrigue and balance.

Likewise, Castagnoli was spraying kaolin as early as June in 2022. Owner Tim Schefenacker tells me he also avoids trimming the growing tip shoots, tilting the apex leaves over the bunches as further protection from sunburn.

‘Not trimming the apex also helps to retain the malic acids in August’, he explains. While the estate’s 2022 Riserva will be released next year, a cask sample was highly promising.

Monte Bernardi’s Michael Schmelzer follows a similar practice. Although it’s labour intensive, he braids the apex shoots together, tucking them into the canopy. Besides retaining acidity, he suggests that this also preserves aromas. His 2021 Sa’etta is a testament to both.

Finally, from one of the region’s warmer pockets, San Giusto a Rentennano’s 2022 Le Baròncole is impressive. Luca Martini di Cigala’s vineyard strategy is multi-pronged.

Besides redoing terraces to better manage water, and orienting rows for new plantings northwest to southeast to moderate sun exposure, he has successfully trialled the use of hail nets to reduce UV radiation.

‘If you told me 20 years ago that I would use nets to mitigate heat, I would have laughed,’ he says. ‘In 10 years, I think we’ll see more in the region.’

In a changing climate and an evolving region, growing pains are to be expected.

Endeavours to address both appear geared to preserving the territory’s character – and keeping Riserva from being caught in the middle.


Michaela’s top Chianti Classico Riserva released in 2025

See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report


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Michaela Morris
Italian Expert, Decanter Premium, Decanter Magazine and DWWA Judge 2019
Michaela Morris is an international wine writer and educator. Based in Vancouver, she teaches about Italian wine across Canada and abroad. Michaela is a regular contributor to Decanter Magazine and Meininger’s Wine Business International as well as Canadian publications Taste and Quench. She is a panel chair for Vinitaly’s 5StarWines competition and was international guest judge at the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show in 2019.