Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay: Panel tasting results

Alex Hunt MW, Roger Jones and Beth Pearce MW tasted 80 wines, with 6 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay: Panel tasting scores

80 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 39

Commended 9

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, 100% Chardonnay still wines produced in any of Australia’s cool-climate regions

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our cool-climate Australian Chardonnay panel tasting

Regionality on show

It has been said that Chardonnay represents one of the clearest and most precise lenses through which we can view terroir, and this impressive tasting offered ample evidence to support that assertion.

The affinity between Australia and Chardonnay is well established, of course, so expectations were high before this tasting.

On the other hand, however, there have been times when this particular lens has proved to be ill-focused, with regional differences blurred either by too-obvious winemaking or by the terroir-masking fallacy of early picking.

Not so on this occasion, with all three of the judges discovering commendably distinct regional expressions.

Beth Pearce MW commented that ‘more than ever, the wines seem to be showing a sense of place rather than simply reflecting the winemakers’ preferences for reduction and/or ripeness’.

This would be academic were the wines not delicious, but happily there was much to enjoy here on a hedonistic level, too.

Roger Jones noted: ‘It was good to see high marks from across the regions,’ and the fact that 40% of entries scored 90 points or above demonstrates that our high expectations were borne out.

A rich and diverse palette

Paringa Estate's vineyards in Mornington Peninsula. Credit Paringa Estate — Paringa Estate’s vineyards in Mornington Peninsula (see recommendations).

The most reliably excellent region was Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, with wines that combined beguiling texture with a zesty energy and an ability to age.

Jones observed that wines from here ‘need a bit longer to evolve, but when they do, they certainly develop well, balancing perfume, gunflint as well as delicate ripe stone fruit’.

Meanwhile, Margaret River in Western Australia showcased its trademark blend of density, complexity and freshness, which Pearce found ‘very impressive, effortless in its power and quality, particularly in the 2023 vintage’.

At their best, Tasmania’s steely tension and the Burgundy-esque poise of the Yarra Valley in Victoria drew admiration from the panel, while the standout surprise was Geelong, another Victorian sub-region.

Pearce praised its ‘confident balance’, and the entries from here showed that regardless of whether the wines are from a young or more mature vintage,

Geelong offers a characteristic energy, grip and aromatic profile that combine to make these some of the country’s most thrilling expressions of the Chardonnay grape.

What to eat with cool-climate Australian Chardonnay, by Fiona Beckett

Langoustines-and-many-other-seafood-dishes-can-provide-a-heavenly-match-for-Australian-cool-climate-Chardonnay.-Credit-Anton-Chernov-Shutterstock.jpg — Langoustines and many other seafood dishes can provide a heavenly match for cool-climate Australian Chardonnay.

Chardonnay is such a blissful pairing for so many dishes that the only question is, how far do you push the boat out with the food?

With the lovely acidity of these cool-climate wines, seafood would be my first port of call, especially for younger vintages – I’m particularly thinking in terms of grilled lobster, langoustines and seared scallops, or a luxurious fish pie.

Chicken, of course, is another reliable go-to. A simply roasted bird with delicious, umami-rich, crisp skin would be heaven for older vintages, as would fried chicken (perhaps American-style rather than Korean), with a cream gravy – in fact, virtually anything creamy is spot-on with Chardonnay, especially when topped with pastry, as in a chicken pot pie. That might sound too homely, but simple is what to aim for with wines of this quality.

There are also, of course, vegetables that are particularly Chardonnay-friendly, such as corn, butternut squash (especially with sage) and braised fennel; and mushrooms, too (especially in a risotto). In short, tomato- and red wine-based sauces aside, it’s pretty hard to go wrong.

See all notes and scores from the cool-climate Australian Chardonnay tasting

The judges

Alex Hunt MW is purchasing director at London-based merchant Berkmann Wine Cellars. He became a Master of Wine in 2010, and was awarded the Bollinger Tasting Medal that year. A seasoned wine judge, his writing has appeared in a number of prominent titles, including Decanter

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge (including for DWWA) and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities

Beth Pearce MW is the recently appointed head of buying at Flint Wines. Her extensive experience in the wine industry includes roles in retail and buying at Majestic and most recently buying director at Lay & Wheeler