Cru Beaujolais 2022: Panel tasting results
An in-depth, three-day tasting highlighted the diversity, value and increasing quality to be found in the resurgent region of Beaujolais.
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Andy Howard MW, Melania Battiston and Victoria Daskal tasted 203 wines, with 13 Outstanding and 125 Highly Recommended
Cru Beaujolais 2022: Panel tasting scores
203 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 13
Highly recommended 125
Recommended 60
Commended 5
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2022 vintage reds from any of the 10 Beaujolais cru sub-regions (Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié, St-Amour)
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The judges were delighted by the quality on show from the highly regarded 2022 vintage.
Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie and Morgon led the way with four, three and two Outstanding wines respectively, but the judges were thrilled to see the strength in some of the lesser-known crus, with Chiroubles (the highest in altitude), St-Amour (most northerly alongside Juliénas) and Régnié (most recent AP) all featuring at least one wine at 95 points.
While this success won’t come as a surprise to fans of cru Beaujolais, the results might surprise those who are less familiar with what’s happening in the region today.
Scroll down to see notes and scores of the top-scoring wines from our Cru Beaujolais 2022 tasting
The brilliance of Beaujolais
Beaujolais was long renowned for light, early-drinking, ‘pear-drop and bubble-gum’ wines that were easy to drink but rarely memorable.
Today, the region is the source of some of France’s most terroir-focused wines, often delivering fine-wine quality at great price points.
Sommelier Melania Battiston said: ‘From an on-trade perspective, in many restaurants, we are still faced with the easy-drinking, cheerful representations of Beaujolais, [but] I would happily buy and list most of the bottles that were rated Recommended or above here.’
Victoria Daskal was also enthusiastic: ‘The tasting revealed a remarkable spectrum of possibilities within each village – a testament to the interplay of soils, microclimates, vineyard ages and producer styles.’
Each taster identified different crus as personal favourites. For Daskal, ‘Fleurie defied its delicate, floral reputation, spanning everything from light, invigorating 12% alcohols to dense, ripe 15.5% expressions’.
I was a big fan of Moulin-à-Vent, a powerhouse within the Beaujolais crus, with many wines already at the level of fine Burgundy from the Côte d’Or, while Battiston was impressed by Régnié: ‘For me, the most refined and elegant.’
Daskal also championed Morgon, which she felt offered ‘exceptional fruit concentration, precision and charm, plus a compelling mix of drinkability, ageworthiness and value’.
Overall, she said: ‘The classic crus showed a variety of styles, but the lesser-known crus certainly stood out, too. Régnié, Chénas and Chiroubles impressed, with distinct personalities rooted in their terroirs, showcasing mineral-driven profiles, striking freshness and consistently high quality.’
Click here to see more results from the Cru Beaujolais 2022 panel tasting
What to eat with Cru Beaujolais wines, by Fiona Beckett
Most people still see Beaujolais as a picnic wine, suitable only for pairing with charcuterie and mild soft cheeses such as brie.
True, it goes well with both, especially patés and terrines, but serious bottles such as Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent offer far more than that, the best rivalling red Burgundy for power, elegance and sophistication.
Think, then, of pairing them, particularly older vintages, with a fine roast chicken, feathered game such as duck, partridge or pheasant, or (remember this for later in the year) Christmas turkey, especially the Boxing Day leftovers.
They’re a natural with bistro classics such as kidneys with mustard, oeufs en meurette or hachis parmentier – the region is one of the last bastions of old-school French cooking.
Less obviously, it’s also good with Chinese food – if you want a red pairing, Beaujolais is as good as any – and (albeit lighter styles such as Fleurie) with sushi.
And don’t forget that delicious dessert of strawberries with, or rather in, Beaujolais. Roll on summer.
Cru Beaujolais 2022 panel tasting scores
Wines were tasted blind
The judges
Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. He runs his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing
Melania Battiston is wine director at Cornus restaurant in London, and formerly assistant food & beverage manager for Aman Resorts. A CMS Advanced Sommelier, she runs her own consultancy and coaching company for hospitality and brands, Mel CnC
Victoria Daskal is a wine writer, presenter, consultant and WSET educator. In 2008, she completed the OIV MSc in International Wine Management, and among others has since worked for Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages and as managing editor of The World of Fine Wine
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Andy Howard MW became a Master of Wine in 2011 and runs his own consultancy business, Vinetrades Ltd, which focuses on education, judging, investment and sourcing.
He previously worked for Marks & Spencer as a buyer for over 30 years and was responsible as wine buyer for Burgundy, Bordeaux, Loire, Champagne, Italy, North and South America, South Africa, England, Port and Sherry.
Although his key areas of expertise are Burgundy and Italy, he also has great respect for the wines of South America and South Africa, as well as a keen interest in the wines from South West France
He is a Decanter contributing editor and is the DWWA Regional Chair for Central Italy. Andy also writes a regular column on the UK wine retail trade for JancisRobinson.com.