Top Australian wines of 2022
Planted in 1843, Langmeil's Freedom block in South Australia's Barossa Valley is the world’s oldest surviving Shiraz that produces a single-site wine.
(Image credit: Langmeil/Dragan Radocaj)

Significant and ongoing vineyard improvements through many Australian wine regions are having a profound effect on the country’s best wines, which often appear in unexpected places.

Over the past year I’ve had the fortunate opportunity to taste many excellent rare wines and older vintages in their prime. But the wines that stood out for me as the most exceptional of 2022 also carried an element of surprise.


Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for David Sly’s top Australian wines of 2022


This came in the form of emerging varieties, such as Stephanie Toole’s Nero’d’Avola from Clare Valley and the unique quality of ancient vines, beautifully profiled in The Freedom Shiraz from 1843-planted vines.

I wanted to shine a light on the vastly improving performance of once-maligned regions such as the Riverland in my choice of Unico Zelo’s Fiano, and also to praise the restrained touch that so many Aussie winemakers have found in their reds, here demonstrated by Michael Hall.

I had to include a sublime Clare Riesling from Neil Pike, as well as an impressive biodynamic Grenache from one of Alkina’s micro-parcels in the Barossa. And then, not to let South Australia hog all the limelight, a brace of Tasmanian Chardonnays – one sparkling, one still – from the peerless producers of House of Arras and Tolpuddle; a lovely Frankland River rosé from Swinney Vineyards to fly the flag for the west, and a the Ocean Eight Pinot Noir from Mornington Peninsula to represent Victoria.

It was difficult to shave down a long list of candidates to select only 10 wines, and on another day I could have easily compiled a completely different list – including, perhaps several New South Wales wines, which just missed out on this occasion.


David Sly: my top Australian wines of 2022


Michaela Morris: my top 10

Jonathan Cristaldi: my top 10

Matt Walls: my top 10

House of Arras, Arras Grand Vintage Extra Brut, Tasmania, Australia, 2013

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Locked score

This exudes opulence on a grand scale, from its rich, persistent mousse, through the surging complex flavours that wash luxuriously across the palate. With 62%...

2013

TasmaniaAustralia

House of Arras

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Tolpuddle Vineyard, Chardonnay, Coal River Valley, Tasmania, Australia, 2021

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Locked score

Owned since 2011 by Michael Hill Smith MW and Martin Shaw of Shaw & Smith Wines in the Adelaide Hills, the 20ha northeast facing Tolpuddle...

2021

TasmaniaAustralia

Tolpuddle VineyardCoal River Valley

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Limefinger, The Solace Riesling, Clare Valley, Polish Hill River Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2022

My wines
Locked score

Neil Pike left his family’s Pikes Wines in Clare and started his own boutique label in 2020 that specialises only in Riesling. This superior vintage...

2022

South AustraliaAustralia

LimefingerClare Valley

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Unico Zelo, Jade and Jasper Fiano, Riverland, South Australia, Australia, 2022

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Locked score

Change is sweeping through South Australia’s vast Riverland region, with many vineyard owners embracing an array of Mediterranean grape varieties. This is what excites Brendon...

2022

South AustraliaAustralia

Unico ZeloRiverland

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Swinney Vineyards, Bush Vine Mourvèdre Rosé, Frankland River, Western Australia, Australia, 2022

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Locked score

A pale salmon colour suggests a delicate wine, but winemaker Rob Mann has built a rosé of surprising complexity and restraint. The bone-dry palate and...

2022

Western AustraliaAustralia

Swinney VineyardsFrankland River

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Alkina, Polygon 3 Grenache, Barossa, South Australia, Australia, 2019

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Locked score

Delicate yet formidable, this wine’s dense, multiple layers of complex texture and flavour speak eloquently. There’s fresh raspberry and graphite, rhubarb and red earth, dark...

2019

South AustraliaAustralia

AlkinaBarossa

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Langmeil, The Freedom 1843 Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2020

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Locked score

The great asset of ancient vines is the rare quality of the fruit they produce, being less a statement about an intense concentration of power...

2020

South AustraliaAustralia

LangmeilBarossa Valley

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Michael Hall, Flaxman’s Valley Syrah, Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2019

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Locked score

Michael Hall will challenge any preconceptions of Barossa Shiraz with this understated, elegant beauty. Sourced from the elevated granite belt in Flaxman’s Valley (part of...

2019

South AustraliaAustralia

Michael HallEden Valley

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Mount Horrocks, Nero d’Avola, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2020

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Locked score

Australia’s future vineyard sustainability depends on identifying appropriate drought-tolerant varieties, and Sicily's robust Nero d’Avola grape is showing great promise. Winemaker Stephanie Toole has been...

2020

South AustraliaAustralia

Mount HorrocksClare Valley

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Ocean Eight, Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2020

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Locked score

Many Australian Pinot Noirs are rising in both quality and sophistication, but this offering is an outstanding improver. Having stepped beyond his family’s former winery,...

2020

VictoriaAustralia

Ocean EightMornington Peninsula

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After 30 years in journalism, Australian freelance writer, author and editor David Sly has been fortunate enough to indulge his passions in print. Based in Adelaide, South Australia, David has moved from newspapers to specialise in food and wine writing, being published in national and international magazines, from Gourmet Traveller to Decanter, and is Food & Wine Editor of SA Life magazine. He has focused intently on the specialised regional produce and wines of South Australia, winning national awards, and is a graduate of the University of Adelaide/ Le Cordon Bleu Gastronomy course.