Champagne
Credit: Ppampicture/Getty Images
(Image credit: Ppampicture/Getty Images)

It’s no secret that Champagne prices in the UK have shot up since the Covid pandemic.

A recent report by consultancy firm Wine Lister found that between December 2021 and December 2024, prices increased by 21% among 15 top-selling brands. This is considerably larger than for any other sparkling wine type.

In trying to explain this slump, Maxime Toubart, president of Champagne’s grower association SGV (whose members sell their grapes to Champagne houses), accused the houses of ‘disproportionate’ price rises compared to the prices paid to grapegrowers.


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Infrastructure & vintage struggles?

Houses will argue that small and difficult vintages, such as 2021, and significant cost increases in areas such as energy, vineyard work and shipping, have led to these price rises.

In practice, most of the leading grandes marques set recommended retail prices above the £40 mark today, and the long-held sense that Champagne ought to be available in the UK for around £30 is certainly being tested.

In search of value, then, I tasted 50 white Champagnes that can be obtained at a full price of £40 or below per bottle in the UK. The top 15 are featured below.

What sort of quality can we expect from Champagne at that price point, though?

How much of the bottle price is actually going to the wine producer, and how much is eaten up with taxes and various costs, including distribution and promotion?

I spoke to Justin Howard-Sneyd MW, who has sourced Champagnes for the UK market, to find out how the numbers stack up.

Howard-Sneyd estimates that about £15 (€18) of that £40 full price will make it to the Champagne producer (see box, below).

Their costs then include at least €8-€9 for the grapes or base wine (assuming these are largely bought-in, rather than grown by the producer, which they usually are at this price in the UK), €2-€3 for dry goods and €3-€4 for cost of production, leaving €2-€5 profit for the producer.

‘It’s the UK government and the retailer’ who make the most money, says Howard-Sneyd.


Vital statistics for a £40 bottle of Champagne in the UK

Price before VAT is added: £33.33

Before retailer margin: £23.33

Before UK duty: £20.67

Before shipping, warehousing, deliver & ERP (packing costs): £19.77

Before distribution, marketing & promotional support: £17.77

Before in-market promotion & discounting: £15


A question of style

The Champagnes tasted here fell into two camps: wines that made efforts to taste bold and flashy, despite their price; and wines that seemed to put their resources into getting the basics right – fruit quality, balance and refreshment.

Including large amounts of reserve wine in the blend (even if those reserves might not be of the best quality), or adding lots of dosage (in the form of a rich, aged liqueur d’expédition) when topping up after the disgorgement stage can help fairly basic wines get some warm, biscuity-type tones that feel expensive for a single glass, but can get tiring for more.

Cheaper Champagnes often use more tailles – the must resulting from harder pressings of the grapes – which can bring a juicy fruitiness and low acidity to the wines, although, as was sometimes found in the tasting, can also increase bitterness, needing a little more sugar in the dosage to compensate.

The top-scoring wines here all avoided those pitfalls with aplomb, proving there are still a few treasures to be found without stretching the budget.


Tom Hewson’s 15 affordable Champagne recommendations


Co-op, Les Pionniers Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

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Locked score

The Co-op often shines with its own-label Champagnes, put together by Charles and Piper-Heidsieck. This single-vintage is a real find, full of candied grapefruit, brown...

2013

ChampagneFrance

Co-op

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Berry Bros & Rudd, Grand Cru Brut, Montagne de Reims, Champagne, France

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Locked score

Made by the Mailly Grand Cru cooperative, this is a perennial performer for those who like Pinot-heavy breadth. Blackberry, dark honey and roasted nut richness...

ChampagneFrance

Berry Bros & RuddMontagne de Reims

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Henri Chauvet, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Montagne de Reims, Champagne, France

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Locked score

This Pinot Noir and Meunier blend feels very true to the red grapes of Rilly-la-Montagne on the Montagne de Reims, crisply and carefully made with...

ChampagneFrance

Henri ChauvetMontagne de Reims

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Henriot, Souverain Brut, Champagne, France

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Locked score

Currently offers a lot of complexity from lees-ageing and reserve wines for the price, making it an excellent buy. There's a sophisticated, complex note of...

ChampagneFrance

Henriot

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Marks & Spencer, Collection Tradition Premier Cru Brut, Champagne, France

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The Union Champagne cooperative group, operating here under the name De Saint-Gall, turns out a svelte, sophisticated style for M&S, with some reductively styled matchstick...

ChampagneFrance

Marks & Spencer

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Michel Arnould, Observation Grand Cru Brut, Montagne de Reims, Champagne, France

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Locked score

It's quite rare to find good grower Champagne at this price, but this is convincing. Based on Pinot Noir from the grand cru village of...

ChampagneFrance

Michel ArnouldMontagne de Reims

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Waitrose, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Côte des Bar, Champagne, France

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Locked score

This is all about true-to-type, cleanly presented Pinot Noir fruit rather than anything heavily biscuity, creamy or showy. Juicy and friendly, with red apple, brown...

ChampagneFrance

WaitroseCôte des Bar

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Ayala, Brut Majeur, Champagne, France

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Ayala's recent moves to increase the Chardonnay content and freshness of its entry-level cuvée have worked a treat: it's now a very solid buy. Sunny...

ChampagneFrance

Ayala

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Henri Chauvet, Réserve Brut, Montagne de Reims, Champagne, France

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A second recommendation from this grower on the Montagne de Reims comes in the form of a blend, with roasted apple, bright pear and fine...

ChampagneFrance

Henri ChauvetMontagne de Reims

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Piper-Heidsieck, Cuvée Brut, Champagne, France

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90

Piper-Heidsieck shoots for plenty of Pinot Noir-forward fruit, and the current Cuvée Brut succeeds with fresh strawberry, caramel biscuit and lemon peel ease, the palate lined with a plush digestive biscuit richness that sits nicely with just enough freshness and precision. One of the most reliable grandes marques at this level.

ChampagneFrance

Piper-Heidsieck

Tesco, Finest Premier Cru Brut, Champagne, France

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The Union Champagne cooperative makes Tesco a consistent performer among own-labels, and this carefully made, Chardonnay-forward brut is accordingly delicate and neat with sweet almond,...

ChampagneFrance

Tesco

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The Wine Society, The Society's Brut, Champagne, France

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The Wine Society's popular own-label Champagne is made by Alfred Gratien, with oak fermentation bringing a generous, expressive warmth to the wine. Apple tart, walnut...

ChampagneFrance

The Wine Society

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Waitrose, No.1 Special Reserve Brut, Champagne, France, 2018

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Castelnau has turned out a successful 2018 vintage for Waitrose here, with the hot year's broad and sweet-fruited palate thrown into focus by some smart,...

2018

ChampagneFrance

Waitrose

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Guy de Forez, Les Riceys Blanc de Noirs Tradition Brut, Côte des Bar, Champagne, France

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Locked score

An unusual find, this grower Pinot Noir from Les Riceys in the Côte des Bar pours a pale pink, as the blanc de noirs from...

ChampagneFrance

Guy de ForezCôte des Bar

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Lay & Wheeler, Brut, Champagne, France

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Locked score

Thiénot produces this rich, toasty style for Lay & Wheeler, with some melted butter and toffee-like notes over grapefruit marmalade Chardonnay and some sweet apple...

ChampagneFrance

Lay & Wheeler

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Tom Hewson writes about Champagne and sparkling wine. He authored the Tim Atkin Champagne Special Report in 2022, featuring over 600 wines and insights from five weeks spent in the region. As well as writing freelance, reviewing and presenting sparkling wines, Tom runs his own newsletter Six Atmospheres, reaching Champagne and sparkling wine enthusiasts all over the world every week.