How does English sparkling wine compare to Champagne? The vintage category
Where is your money best spent? John Stimpfig reports...
Following on from my report on the non-vintages, below are my vintage fizz tasting notes from a recent clash between England and France.
In all, 24 wines were poured in three categories: NV, Vintage and Rosé. When it came to the vintage category, Champagne took the lion’s share of the top spots – perhaps not surprisingly when you factor in the likes of Dom Pérignon, Bollinger’s Grande Année and Louis Roederer.
But the Nyetimber 1086 2009 and Coates & Seely La Perfide Blanc de Blancs 2009 performed admirably, picking up very good scores in the mid-90s. Moreover, it’s worth pointing out that many of the Champagnes on offer were significantly more expensive than their UK counterparts.
Closing the gap
There were some notable disappointments: I was underwhelmed by the Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée 2005. And I was surprised that the Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006, one of my favourite Champagnes, didn’t show better than it did.
Perhaps you could argue that this tasting maintains the supremacy of Champagne, but the gap is definitely closing. That can only be seriously good news for wine lovers.
English sparkling wine vs Champagne: Vintage
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Dom Pérignon, Champagne, France, 2009
After the magnificent austerity of 2008, 2009 is riper and fuller, ‘solaire’ by temperament and generous of figure. Some '09s, according to Geoffroy, are ‘too...
2009
Dom Pérignon
Louis Roederer, Champagne, France, 2006
One of my wines of the tasting, this has terrific tension, elegance and completeness from start to the persistently long finish. It has super-refined definition...
2006
Louis Roederer
Nyetimber, 1086, West Sussex, England, United Kingdom, 2009
A very impressive, impeccably made wine with everything in its place. It has crisp acidity, some sweetness to the patisserie, cream, bruised apple and white...
2009
NyetimberWest Sussex
Coates & Seely, La Perfide Blanc de Blancs Britagne, Hampshire, England, United Kingdom, 2009
A lovely fizz with fine, well-defined acidity that works as a counterpoint to the rich, bready notes on the palate. Savoury leesy, spicy notes and...
2009
Coates & SeelyHampshire
Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Champagne, France, 2006
A cold winter and scattered frost were followed by a hot, dry July. August rains cleared in time for the two weeks of dry, warm...
2006
Taittinger
Fox & Fox, Essence Blanc de Blanc Pure Chardonnay, England, United Kingdom, 2014
This has a bright chalky and flinty minerality. The palate is quite restrained and tight, with salty oyster shell notes alongside good acidity and some...
2014
Fox & Fox
Vilmart & Cie, Coeur de Cuvée, Champagne, France, 2005
The most unusual wine of the tasting by some distance, this is very evolved and oxidative, with ginger, butter and savoury toast notes. It's a...
2005
Vilmart & Cie
Gusbourne Estate, Blanc de Blancs, England, United Kingdom, 2011
Served from magnum. A disappointing showing, this tastes a little too confected and creamy. There is some lees effect and good cleansing acidity, but the...
2011
Gusbourne Estate
