Expert’s choice: Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s native whites

Back in the 1970s, Friuli-Venezia Giulia was hailed as ‘the promised land’ for Italy’s burgeoning fine white wine scene.

Winemakers such as Silvio Jermann and Mario Schiopetto, having embraced modern winemaking philosophy and new technology, became legends.

Such privileged status continues today, at least at national level; for now, the area’s wines remain less well known further afield.

Scroll down to see Michael Garner’s top 18 native white wines from Friuli-Venezia Giulia

About 75% of production here is white, and while Friuli might be best known for its excellent and distinctive Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon, the region’s talented winemakers are now gaining a reputation for varieties regarded as native.

Four in particular stand out: Friulano, Malvasia Istriana, Ribolla Gialla and Vitovska.

Across the region’s four DOCG and 12 DOC areas, these account for about 14% of vineyard plantings.

Friulano

Friulano (Sauvignonasse in Chile, Sauvignon Vert in Bordeaux) is clearly the ‘favourite child’, with almost 9.5% of plantings.

A versatile grape, Friulano works well as a fresh, young varietal; the red apple and yellow peach fruit characters have mineral and saline notes, supported by a juicy freshness and silky palate.

Extra time on the lees and/or judicious ageing in wood (preferably the traditional oak or chestnut botti) develops extra intensity, bringing candied and preserved fruit tones as well as rich, savoury leesy qualities. Friulano is capable of ageing well – up to 10 years in some cases.

Malvasia Istriana

Malvasia Istriana, with about 1.5% of vineyard plantings, remains an enigma.

The most distinctive of the various Malvasia varieties, it is characterised by pronounced mineral aromas and flavours.

Good Malvasia Istriana will be firm-bodied, with a f loral-toned, white peach character and a sharp, Seville orange-like acidity. Developing well in bottle over three or four years, it can take on almost Riesling-like notes.

Ribolla Gialla

Ribolla Gialla (about 3% of plantings in Collio and Colli Orientali, where it has DOC status) swims against the tide. Whereas most of the region’s white wines are rich and ripe, strong on texture, aroma and flavour, Ribolla Gialla is much lighter-bodied, with higher than average acidity.

Best drunk young, a typical version shows notes of white pepper, turmeric root and spring f lowers with hints of Asian pear and fragrant lemon. Such delicacy requires careful wood treatment, if any.

Vitovska

Lean, lithe and full of vigour, Vitovska is made in tiny quantities only in the Carso area but is nonetheless worth seeking out.

A classic Vitovska has remarkable freshness, with smoky and limey mineral notes, lively acidity, and a saline finish.

It’s worth noting that blends such as Collio Bianco and Colli Orientali Bianco (both DOC), containing a combination of Friulano, Ribolla and Malvasia, can also be stunning.

Michael Garner’s top 18 native whites from Friuli-Venezia Giulia

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