Expert’s Choice: Montagne St-Emilion

Tucked away on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, east of Pomerol and north of St-Emilion, the 1,600ha Montagne St-Emilion AP is a hidden gem.

Merlot dominates (at least 75%), together with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, in this appellation with an enviable location.

Separated from St-Emilion itself by the river Barbanne, Montagne shares many influences with its more famous neighbour. Yet the wines of Montagne are still relatively unknown.

Andy’s pick of the wines of Montagne St-Emilion are listed below

Montagne St-Emilion is one of the four APs commonly referred to as the ‘St-Emilion satellites’ – a description referring to the location of the vineyards, as well as the fact that they share similar underlying soil structures.

Being linked to this appellation powerhouse undoubtedly brings marketing advantages. But this can also be seen as a ‘double-edged sword’, perhaps casting the lesser-known APs in the role of poor relations.

However, Montagne is no sidekick, being the largest of the satellites, with St-Georges St-Emilion (closest to St-Emilion) the smallest.

Growers here can choose whether to label their wines as St-Georges or Montagne. Puisseguin St-Emilion (some 730ha under vine) lies east of Montagne, with similar clay-limestone soils and slightly lower temperatures.

Lussac St-Emilion (1,450ha) is the furthest north of the satellites, with a varied mix of terroir including both heavier clays and sandier soils, with a distinctly cooler, fresher feel to the wines.

Tangible change

Pascal Lambert, marketing director for the Montagne appellation, highlights the similarities between the underlying limestone rock, overlaid with clay, with those of St-Emilion.

The topographical differences between the appellations are visually barely perceptible when crossing over the Barbanne river, although the elevation gradually climbs as one moves north.

Today, elevation is one of Montagne’s biggest advantages. Recent studies by Kees Van Leeuwen, Professor of Viticulture at Bordeaux Sciences Agro, identify the cumulative degree-day measurements (Winkler Index) for various right bank APs.

St-Emilion is undoubtedly a major ‘hot-spot’, while Montagne is markedly fresher; Puisseguin and Lussac, further north and east, are cooler still.

This cooler climate used to be a weakness for Montagne St-Emilion, yet now it’s proving to be a benefit. With similar bedrock and soils to St-Emilion, combined with lower cumulative temperatures, the wines of Montagne are significantly ahead of where they were just a few years ago.

Chewy, rustic tannins have now been replaced by smooth, ripe tannins.

Winemakers are making big strides, with distinct moves to reduce oak influence and emphasise fruit ripeness, while embracing new techniques such as ageing in clay amphorae.

The new wave is evident from the plethora of different labels on show – some looking distinctly traditional, whereas others have a much more modern style.

Prices and value in Montagne St-Emilion are competitive, and even more so when compared to the St-Emilion grand cru classé level. When next visiting the region, take a trip north over the Barbanne – the village of Montagne is less than 15 minutes’ drive, and the trip will prove very worthwhile.

Andy’s pick of Montagne St-Emilion

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