Expert’s Choice: Tasmanian fizz
Australia’s island state has arguably the nation’s finest sparkling wine terroir – for Tasmania, the only way is up.
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For an island state with a population of just 576,000, Tasmania punches well above its weight in the world of wine. It produces 1.2% of Australia’s national crush by volume, but 6.1% of the crush by value.
Tasmania, or Lutruwita in the palawa kani language, is located south of the eastern end of the Australian mainland.
With a cool climate, moderate rainfall and numerous mountain ranges, it’s an extremely diverse pocket of the country that subverts many of the classic tropes.
Scroll down for Cassandra’s pick of Tasmanian sparkling wine
Sitting between about 40° and 43° latitude, summer days are long, winters bring snow in the central uplands, and although the island has a temperate climate, the maritime influence can provide benefits and challenges to wine-growing, meaning that site selection is key.
Of course, grape variety also plays an important role, with Pinot Noir comprising just under half the total yield, followed by Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. About 40% of total production is sparkling wine.
The island has one official GI (Tasmania), divided into seven unofficial wine-growing regions in the north, east and south: Tamar Valley, Pipers River, East Coast, North West, Coal River Valley, Derwent Valley and Huon Valley.
Soils and microclimates are diverse, and the variable weather means that vintage variation can be considerable. Recent top vintages include the outstanding 2016 and 2019, with 2017 and 2021 also great for many. 2020, 2022 and 2023 saw high quality but lower yields, while 2024 was a brilliant season for quality and quantity.
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Steady growth
Although grapevines were first planted in Tasmania (on Bruny Island) in 1788, it wasn’t until the mid-1950s that the first contemporary vineyards were planted and the island’s wine industry began in earnest.
The La Provence vineyard (now known as Providence) was planted in 1956 in the island’s northeast by French émigrés Jean and Cecile Miguet. Two years later, Italian textile merchant Claudio Alcorso established Moorilla Estate in Hobart, unaware of the recent plantings in the north.
Many of the instrumental founding players still drive the industry. In 1974, Dr Andrew Pirie put the Pipers River sub-region on the map with his Pipers Brook vineyard; he established his 2ha Apogee vineyard in 2012.
The 1990s brought new plantings and pioneers, and the industry has steadily grown to what it is today, with the top producers winning accolades among the world’s premium wines.
Tasmania’s sparkling wine industry is an exciting space right now. Vineyards have matured, reserve wine programs have aged, and producers – from the established, such as House of Arras, to young guns and family-owned operations such as Bellebonne – are crafting wines that express place in a fantastic diversity of styles.
Tasmania’s sparkling fruit is among the country’s most sought-after, reaching a record A$3,797/tonne in 2024.
With the wine sector predicted to be the largest contributor to the Tasmanian economy by 2040, it’s clear that the sparkling train is travelling full steam ahead. There has never been a better time to pick up a bottle and jump on board.
Tasmanian sparkling wine
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Bellebonne, Blanc de Blancs, Pipers River, Tasmania, Australia, 2017

Wow, what a nose! Pipers River Chardonnay fruit from the long and cool 2017 vintage with plenty of time on lees and well-handled oak by...
2017
TasmaniaAustralia
BellebonnePipers River
Henskens Rankin of Tasmania, Vintage Brut, Multi-appellation, Tasmania, Australia, 2015

The nose is magnetic, unfurling layers of golden apple, exotic spice, and subtle Vegemite umami, all framed by fragrant spring blossom, honeysuckle and tuberose. The...
2015
TasmaniaAustralia
Henskens Rankin of TasmaniaMulti-appellation
Pirie, Late Disgorged, Tamar Valley, Tasmania, Australia, 2011

The first 10-year late-disgorged wine for Pirie – and it's a mighty one. An elegant nose displaying purity of fruit and surprising freshness, with notes of...
2011
TasmaniaAustralia
PirieTamar Valley
Apogee, Vintage Deluxe Vintage Brut, Pipers River, Tasmania, Australia, 2021

Crushed oyster shell minerality and freshness lead to lightly baked green apple studded with cloves and baking spice. Pretty white florals, red apple skin, gingerbread...
2021
TasmaniaAustralia
ApogeePipers River
Delamere, Late Disgorged Blanc de Blancs, Pipers River, Tasmania, Australia, 2013

A beautiful, rich nose opens, accompanied by a fine and persistent bead in the glass. A complex palate of roast red apples, chicken skin, bone...
2013
TasmaniaAustralia
DelamerePipers River
House of Arras, Grand Vintage, Multi-appellation, Tasmania, Australia, 2016

What a gorgeous nose. It races with charred sourdough slathered with freshly whipped sweet butter before unleashing a spring gathering of acacia, jasmine, and honeysuckle....
2016
TasmaniaAustralia
House of ArrasMulti-appellation
House of Arras, Vintage Rose, Multi-appellation, Tasmania, Australia, 2016

A sophisticated and heady sparkling rosé balancing refinement and exuberance. Aromatics soar with just bruised rose petals, violas, and spring garden notes alongside red apple...
2016
TasmaniaAustralia
House of ArrasMulti-appellation
Lowestoft, Rosé, Derwent Valley, Tasmania, Australia, 2017

Pale salmon with an inviting nose with ripe redcurrant, watermelon rind, peaches and cream lollies and a savoury undertone of just toasted croissant and bonito...
2017
TasmaniaAustralia
LowestoftDerwent Valley
Small Wonder Wines, Small Wonder Blanc de Blancs, Tamar Valley, Tasmania, Australia, 2021

Opening with briny complexity, crushed oyster shell and green apple notes alongside autolytic hints of toast, honey-glazed cashew and buttery shortbread. The nose develops to...
2021
TasmaniaAustralia
Small Wonder WinesTamar Valley
Bellebonne, Bellebonne Bis Non-Vintage Blanc, Pipers River/Tamar Valley, Tasmania, Australia

Fresh and precise, there’s spring blossom, sun-soaked hay, crisp golden delicious apple and a sea breeze of minerality. The bead is fine and cloudlike, helping...
TasmaniaAustralia
BellebonnePipers River/Tamar Valley
Jansz Tasmania, Premium Rosé NV, Multi-appellation, Tasmania, Australia

Plenty of effervescence in the glass, with a nose fuelled by watermelon pith, freeze-dried strawberries, oatcake, a little sourdough, a skittering of fried herbs, peach...
TasmaniaAustralia
Jansz TasmaniaMulti-appellation
Jansz Tasmania, Vintage Cuvée, Pipers River, Tasmania, Australia, 2020

Some delightful toasty notes on the nose: lemon tart shell, sourdough, a little gunflint, green spice, lemon zest, and that classic Pipers River oyster shell....
2020
TasmaniaAustralia
Jansz TasmaniaPipers River
Moorilla, Praxis Sparkling Riesling, Tamar Valley, Tasmania, Australia, 2023

This is Riesling, alright! Fresh and floral, with spring blossom, pink rose petals, honeysuckle, wildflower honey, nectar, a hint of guava, lime pith and bath...
2023
TasmaniaAustralia
MoorillaTamar Valley
Josef Chromy, Tasmanian Cuveé NV, Tamar Valley, Tasmania, Australia

The nose is fresh and inviting with citrus tones, white blossom, a little rock salt and some crushed granite and oyster shell minerality, all framed...
TasmaniaAustralia
Josef ChromyTamar Valley
Pirie, NV, Tamar Valley, Tasmania, Australia

A classic sparkler, with hushed, yeasty notes, rounded citrus tones, green apple, hay, blossom, and a little crushed shell. Lemon curd, crisp tart shell and...
TasmaniaAustralia
PirieTamar Valley
Jansz Tasmania, Premium Cuvée NV, Multi-appellation, Tasmania, Australia

A fresh and lifted nose is complete with jasmine, a little marzipan, meringue, lemon pith, lime blossom and a crushed limestone crisp minerality. The mousse...
TasmaniaAustralia
Jansz TasmaniaMulti-appellation
Clover Hill, Tasmania Rosé NV, Tasmania, Tasmania, Australia

The nose opens with pretty confectionery notes of Turkish delight, rose petal jam, pert red cherries, watermelon rind and a pinch of baking spice; cinnamon...
TasmaniaAustralia
Clover HillTasmania
Cassandra Charlick is a Margaret River-based wine and travel writer and presenter who was awarded a fellowship at the 2023 Wine Writers Symposium in California's Napa Valley. In addition to Decanter, she reviews and writes on wine for a number of publications in Australia and also has a regular wine travel column in International Traveller Magazine. Off the page, she's a television presenter on Channel Nine's Our State on a Plate, a compere at wine functions, and hosts in-person wine and food events throughout Western Australia. Through her company Earn Your Vino, Cassandra also delivers immersive wine experiences throughout WA's wine regions.
