Expert’s choice: White Rioja

Probably, the world’s least-known classic region for fine white wines is Rioja. But this is not due to the quality of the wines themselves. Rather, it’s simply because fine Spanish wines were, unlike their French or Italian equivalents, rarely seen abroad for most of the 20th century due to the country’s politics.

These are wines that have a distinctive character. With a bit of practice, it’s not difficult to spot a good white Rioja in a blind tasting: they can be nothing else. In today’s standardised world, uniqueness is a jewel.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 18 wonderful white Riojas

What’s more, the best Rioja whites (usually made 100% from the Viura grape) stand the test of time in a way that’s only comparable to great German Riesling and a few Burgundies. Top white Riojas from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s are still in pristine shape today. Some late releases of the 1970s and 1980s are equally admirable. Because of that, some renowned white Rioja wines are increasingly hard to find in the market, like grands crus.

Currently, research and scientific advances, coupled with an emphasis by growers on taking the utmost care of their vineyards, are adding to the intrinsic qualities of these Riojas, making these long-ageing wines even more refined.

At the same time, more and more new styles are appearing. Some are aiming for commercial niches, featuring Sauvignon, Chardonnay or Verdejo, while others are leveraging new vineyard areas or new winemaking in search of terroir identity.

Individual styles

My selection reflects part of this scene. Some wines are made according to a refined application of the pre-phylloxera methods, from very old vineyards, and they are top wines on their own.

Others show the new trend of selecting single vineyards (Viñedo Singular) and endorsing them as a token of extra quality. These are very interesting wines, but it is too early yet to determine their distinctiveness. I hope that in years to come we will be able to pick out some of those individual vineyard wines in blind tastings.

While the identity of Rioja Alavesa and the great potential of Rioja Alta are evident, the relevance of Rioja Oriental for these kinds of wine is also rapidly increasing. The pioneer in this Rioja sub-region, Alvaro Palacios, is now closely followed by other producers.

Most white Riojas are made using solely Viura grapes (also known as Macabeo), although some winemakers stick to the traditional recipe of blending with Garnacha Blanca and/or Malvasía. (Incidentally, Malvasía used to be deemed unworthy until a few years ago, when the capacity of some clones and expert hands revealed its potential for fine, mildly aromatic wines.) Maturana Blanca and Tempranillo Blanco are also now adding complexity to the scene.

Finally, there are many innovations. Some of them are brilliant: quasi-orange and tinaja (not to be called ‘amphora’, please!) wines; a wine made from Chenin; a solera wine that’s a blend of several vintages. The mix of well-informed tradition and adventurous innovation is in Rioja’s blood; it should feed its prestige now and in the future.

I do not recommend one style over another. Rioja is not an appellation to be associated with a type of wine, but a wine country that hosts a wonderful, sometimes chaotic, array of lands, people and plants – all for our drinking pleasure!

See the top white Rioja picks from Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW

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