Etna wines
Credit: Anadolu / Contributor/ Getty Images
(Image credit: Anadolu / Contributor/ Getty Images)

Etna’s uniqueness never ceases to fascinate. Between lava slopes, extreme altitudes and ultra-centenarian sapling vineyards on characteristic terraces contained by dry lava stone walls, the volcano’s energy dominates the landscape and wine-producing scenery.

Its heroic viticulture and magnetising aspect attracts enthusiasts and winemakers the world over, inducing them to choose a way of life on a’muntagna (Etna’s local name) despite the challenging work.

The volcano features a complex mosaic of soils, slopes, altitudes and microclimates, condensed into over 130 contrade (historical sub-areas defined by particular lava formations that characterise the geology – and the wines).

The native varieties Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are used for reds and whites; while Carricante dominates white production.

All are able to channel and express the distinctive imprint of this volcanic kaleidoscope.

It was a dimension we experienced during Etna Days this September. The event was conceived by the Etna DOC consortium to spotlight the constantly evolving path of Sicily’s first denomination.

The Etna DOC was established back in 1968 and is now on its way to becoming a DOCG in the near future.

The tastings highlighted a clear improvement in the whites due to producers increasingly channelling Carricante’s acidic and sapid character. It’s a variety that produces wines of enormous evolutionary potential. Focusing on their longevity will be a winning card in the years to come.

The subtle and complex reds are always fascinating, offering vibrant, characterful wines with a narrative of vivid gustatory tension and volcanic personality.


From the crater: Eight Etna wines to try


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I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell'Etna, Imbris, Etna, Superiore, Sicily, Italy, 2021

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The Carricante from contrada Caselle in Milo evokes hints of aromatic herbs, hazelnut and orange blossom honey, intensifying into a clear smoky note. Enveloping flavours...

2021

SicilyItaly

I Custodi Delle Vigne Dell'EtnaEtna

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Benanti, Pietra Marina, Etna, Superiore, Sicily, Italy, 2020

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A fine selection from within Contrada Rinazzo, this Superiore is a delicious white, unoaked for transparency and freshness. Flint, smoky lemon peel and a hint...

2020

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BenantiEtna

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Federico Curtaz, Etna, Superiore, Sicily, Italy, 2021

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From a single vineyard of vines between 90 and 100 years old in Milo, this wood-aged Superiore is leesy and lemony, with grapefruit, citrus zest...

2021

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Federico CurtazEtna

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Cantine di Nessuno, Milus, Etna, Superiore, Sicily, Italy, 2022

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A polyphonic blend of intensity and finesse, this opens with scents of camomile, yellow fruit and orange blossom. Supported by acidity, impressive matter gives volume...

2022

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Cantine di NessunoEtna

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Pietradolce, Barbagalli, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2020

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Barbagalli is reliably one of Etna's finest red wines, and it doesn't disappoint in 2020. It's from a beautiful plot in Contrada Rampante, at 900m...

2020

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PietradolceEtna

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Tenuta Tascante, Contrada Sciaranuova VV, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2020

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A pure Nerello Mascalese wine from a 64-year-old walled vineyard near a forest at over 700m above sea level. A complex and varied aromatic spectrum...

2020

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Tenuta TascanteEtna

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Graci, Arcuria Sopra il Pozzo, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2020

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A single-vineyard in the contrada of Arcurìa, Sopra il Pozzo 2020 has laser focus and bags of energy. Lifted and very fresh, it opens with...

2020

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GraciEtna

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Girolamo Russo, San Lorenzo, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2022

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A darker expression compared to ‘a Rina, with fleshy red and black cherries, some bitter herbs and earthy nuance, lavender and violet overtones, and plenty...

2022

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Girolamo RussoEtna

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Alessandra Piubello
Decanter Magazine, Italian Expert and DWWA Judge
Alessandra Piubello, journalist, writer, editor, and expert wine-taster from Verona, has an innate passion for wine. Born in Italy's famous Valpolicella wine area, as a child she helped her father tend vines and make the family wine. She began wine-tasting at the age of eight and her love for her land and its produce encouraged a career in journalism reporting on many aspects of Italian culture, principally wine and food. She is co-editor of the Veronelli Guida Oro - the only Italian woman to hold a role of this seniority - and she is also the editor-in-Chief for Queen International and Prince magazines.