Gevrey-Chambertin 2024: The best of the year’s ‘crisp and fresh’ wines
Problems with mildew and poor flowering has reduced yields in 2024, but has also made it imperative to do your research before buying. Our expert highlights the best wines to keep in mind.
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As with several other villages, there was marked variation in the wines from Gevrey-Chambertin.
The best wines have a pure, perfumed expression of high-toned red fruit character underlined by firm tannins and a bright mineral edge on the palate.
Scroll down for Charles Curtis MW’s 20 top-scoring Gevrey-Chambertin 2024 wines
The most heart-wrenching summary of the vintage in Gevrey came from Cyrielle Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. ‘When I saw what was going on in the vineyards, I felt sick to my stomach,’ she says, ‘we produced half of what we did in 2021, and the total amount was less than 10hl/ha.’
In the end, the yield was so low that the domaine had to blend together its premiers crus Lavaux St-Jacques and Cazetiers to make a Gevrey premier cru.
For the same reason, it will blend together the Mazis-Chambertin and Ruchottes-Chambertin grands crus, which will have to be declassified to premier cru since it blends two different appellations. The domaine will also blend its grapes from the grands crus of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze, which may be sold simply as Chambertin.
At Domaine Fourrier, cellar master François Orisé says that the domaine lost 70% of its crop to mildew. In order to control the effects, it resorted to using an optical sorter, which Orisé says gives an effect more of concentration than one of dilution.
Take your medicine
The variable quality across the village was also confirmed by winemaker Pierre Duroché of Domaine Duroché: ‘In the northern section above the Combe de Lavaux [known as the Côte St-Jacques], we required 14 treatments since the site is very windy and the mildew was not as bad, but our vineyards at the base of the slope required 21 treatments to keep them healthy.’
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In the end, the yield was so low that he also had to blend premier cru (Cazetiers and Estournelles) and village appellations (Aux Etelois and Jeunes Rois), which he will call Cuvée 26, after the number of the tank where it was blended.
Although the wines from Gevrey this year are generally fresh, crisp and light- to medium-bodied, the vintage offers ‘classic’ Gevrey quality and style.
Too often this adjective is a euphemism for ‘light, tart and astringent,’ but that is far from universally true, and wine lovers will still find charming wines to drink now and for mid-term ageing.
Top-scoring Gevrey-Chambertin 2024 wines
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