Lazio wines: five bottles worth seeking out
Susan Hulme MW recommends five wines to try from Lazio, away from the tourist hotspot of nearby Tuscany.
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Away from the major tourist attraction of Rome, Lazio offers a quieter side of Italy.
Lazio is located on the west coast of central Italy, bordered to the north by Tuscany, Umbria and the Marche, to the east by the Abruzzo, and to the south by Molise and Campania.
It has three DOCGs; Cannellino di Frascati, Frascati Superiore, Cesanese del Piglio, as well as 27 DOCs.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for five Lazio wines to try
White wines from Lazio
As a region, Lazio is more well-known for its white wines. The most famous is Frascati, which is produced near the city of Frascati and throughout Castelli Romani, a group of hillside and lakeside towns southeast of Rome.
Frascati is typically a blend of the region’s two major white grapes, Malvasia (with its family of varieties), and Trebbiano.
The rarer, native white variety Bellone, which is making quite a reputation for itself with its single-varietal wines, is also allowed in the blend.
Frascati wines are typically medium-bodied, soft, creamy and dry.
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From Montefiascone, in the far north of the Lazio region around Lake Bolsena, comes Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone, a dry white wine with an unforgettable name.
Red wines from Lazio
As for reds, Merlot is widely grown and, in the hands of one of Italy’s most skillful winemakers, Riccardo Cotarella, has produced the world class Montiano.
At their Famiglia Cotarella winery at Falesco in the northeastern part of Lazio, they have produced many outstanding wines from Syrah and Merlot as well as native varieties. These wines have helped to earn Lazio international recognition.
To the east of Frascati is the home of the indigenous Cesanese variety. Increasingly appreciated and sought after, it produces lively, sappy, medium-bodied red wines with rich cherry, raspberry and contrasting green pepper flavours.
Look out for wines from Cesanese del Piglio DOCG, Cesanese di Affile DOC and Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC.
Another native grape, Nero Buono, is a rare and characterful variety from the area of Cori, southeast of Rome. It thrives on volcanic soils and at high altitudes, producing dark, medium-bodied wines with black fruit and herb notes.
Lazio wines: factbox
Annual production: 1.5 million hl
Hectares under vine: 20,326ha
Key varieties: Malvasia (30%), Trebbiano (28%)
Producers to know: Famiglia Cotarella Falesco, Sergio Mottura Poggio della Costa, Marco Carpineti, Cincinnato, Castel de Paolis
Five Lazio wines to try:
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Famiglia Cotarella, Montiano, Lazio, Lazio, Italy, 2017

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Cincinnato, Castore Bellone, Lazio, Lazio, Italy, 2020

Grown on volcanic slopes at 200-250 metres near the town of Cori, southeast of Rome, this is a lovely example of the rare white Bellone...
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Principe Pallavicini, Poggio Verde, Frascati, Superiore, Lazio, Italy, 2020

Grown at 200 metres above sea level on a volcanic, calcareous clay and sandy soil in the Castelli Romani area of Lazio, south-east of Rome,...
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Cincinnato, Polluce, Lazio, Lazio, Italy, 2018

This characterful Nero Buono from the Cincinnato cooperative from Cori is savoury and moreish. Youthful, bright purple-toned in colour, with a very savoury nose of...
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Susan Hulme MW runs Vintuition, her own wine education and consultancy company, based in Windsor, which provides wine-related training and courses for both the trade and members of the public. A major part of her work is running in-house training and WSET exams for sales executives at some of the leading on-trade and retail wine companies. Aside from judging Decanter World Wine Awards, she also is a regular critic on Decanter’s panel tastings and judges for the International Wine Competition. She is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers, a former chairman of the Association of Wine Educators (AWE) and the current editor of the AWE newsletter. Since 2007 she has been on the Institute of Masters of Wine events committee. She became a Master of Wine in 2005, winning the Madame Bollinger tasting medal for outstanding performance in the tasting exam.