Jumilla: Panel tasting results

Peter McCombie MW, Victoria Daskal and Eugenio Egorov tasted 117 wines, with 39 Highly recommended and 65 Recommended

Jumilla: Panel tasting scores

117 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 39

Recommended 65

Commended 13

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still, dry (or off-dry) red, white (including skin-fermented) and rosé wines from DO Jumilla

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Jumilla tasting

More than a one-trick pony

Despite a viticultural history that dates back to the Phoenicians, Jumilla remains one of Spain’s lesser-known wine regions.

Those familiar with the DO likely know of the harsh, dry conditions – in which Monastrell [Mourvèdre]  thrives, producing sturdy, ripe, powerful wines. Yet there’s more to Jumilla.

To the north, at higher elevations, the climate is continental, with dramatic diurnal temperature swings, while to the south and east, closer to the Med, conditions are milder and more typically Mediterranean.

This climatic range, alongside varied vineyard exposures and distinct sub-zones, permits a broader range of styles than the casual observer might expect.

While it was no surprise that varietal reds made from Monastrell dominated the tasting, there was also a good showing of Monastrell-dominated blends, other varietal wines, including Garnacha and French imports Syrah and Petit Verdot, some rosés and some white wines.

Pound for pound credentials

Victoria Daskal found the Monastrells ‘consistently good quality and good value across a range of styles’.

These were ‘vibrant, juicy wines bursting with black fruit, perfect for immediate enjoyment. Even more compelling were the higher-scoring, more mature expressions… already showing depth and complexity.’

Syrah was an eye-opener for Daskal, who found ‘dark, brooding character[s]… more reminiscent of the northern Rhône than the warmer regions where Syrah is often grown’.

The judges also found Jumilla evolving beyond its reliance on robust red wines.

Eugenio Egorov noted a dynamic shift in the quality of the white wines, finding ‘interesting freshness and linearity, [and] exciting potential’.

While very ripe fruit is a given in Jumilla, the majority of the wines weren’t overripe and they retained freshness.

The use of oak was light-touch, with wines either unoaked or aged in larger, less influential barrels; the wines that were aged in barriques showed balance.

The tasting revealed Jumilla moving beyond conventional expectations and offering a compelling proposition for value-conscious consumers eager to discover a region embracing innovation and delivering consistent quality.

See all recommendations from the Jumilla tasting

What to eat with the wines of Jumilla, by Fiona Beckett

Despite the variety of styles revealed by this tasting, it’s likely to be the bolder, full-bodied reds you’re going to come across.

Spanish food is the most obvious option, starting with grilled lamb and, in that part of Spain, an authentic paella. (Not, as is fashionable, combining meat and seafood, but chicken and/or rabbit and snails. Make that a meaty paella with chorizo for most of us!)

Monastrell also works really well with Moroccan and Middle Eastern food – think big platters of slow-cooked shoulder of lamb and grilled vegetables, especially aubergines (eggplant) and peppers.

It has an affinity with spices such as cumin, coriander and Aleppo pepper, so is definitely the wine to pull out when you’re working your way through an Ottolenghi cookbook.

Thinking ahead to autumn and winter, it would also be a good pairing for the hearty bean and chickpea dishes at which the Spanish excel, such as fabada Asturiana and the ribsticking Madrid dish cocido madrileño. Jumilla is great with morcilla.

Jumilla panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Peter McCombie MW is a London-based speaker, educator, consultant and writer. Born in New Zealand, he’s an authority on the wines of Italy and Spain, and has judged widely including for the DWWA

Victoria Daskal is a wine writer, presenter, consultant and WSET educator. In 2008, she completed the OIV MSc in International Wine Management, and among other things has since worked for Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages and as managing editor of The World of Fine Wine

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and the USA before moving to London, where he worked as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester

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