Anson: Lalande-de-Pomerol 2015 horizontal
Jane Anson explores the lesser known, but great value, Bordeaux appellation Lalande-de-Pomerol and tastes her way through a horizontal of 31 wines from the 2015 vintage...
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Any horizontal of 2015 Right Bank is worth a look at right now. Approaching five years on from the vintage, it’s pretty much exactly the time that you’re going to be finding these wines on shelves and in restaurants – and when an appellation like Lalande-de-Pomerol is perfect to start drinking.
Lalande is one of those ‘almost there’ appellations; right next to a more famous name but not quite making it. But, it’s also one that has received increasing recognition in recent years and that, for my money, has huge potential to stand alone (buyers seem to agree, with the average land price rising from €150,000 to €240,000 per hectare over the past decade).
Scroll down for Jane Anson’s 31 Lalande-de-Pomerol wine tasting notes and scores
There are, for a start, a host of serious winemakers here that are worth following; Denis Durantou of L’Eglise Clinet owns two estates in the appellation, La Chenade and Les Cruzelles, the de Boüard family of Angélus has La Fleur de Boüard, while François Pinault of Château Latour owns Siaurac, and Pascal Chatonnet, one of Bordeaux’s most respected consultants, has his home estate of Château Haut-Chaigneau.
But these are far from the only interesting properties in Lalande. This is a place with a number of less well-known names that, when you start to dig down, bring to life the limitations of the Bordeaux appellation system.
To understand why, I just have to take you on a brief tour of the region. The southern edge of Lalande is marked by the Barbanne stream that separates Lalande from Pomerol itself. Its most interesting section is in Néac, one of the two communes that make up AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol (the other one being Lalande), and in particular the strip that sits opposite Gazin and La Fleur Pétrus just on the other side of the stream. For a start, the land is far steeper here, with slopes climbing back from the stream that you never find in Pomerol, and giving excellent south-facing exposure. But, it’s also here that you find pockets of the famous sticky clay that covers a tiny fraction of Bordeaux’s soils (almost certainly less than 2% in total), but that countless estates nevertheless claim to have. There are two estates that benefit from it in Lalande-de-Pomerol – parts of Château de Chambrun and Château Tournefeuille, and both make small cuvées; Tournefeuille’s La Cure and Chambrun’s Le Bourg, that isolate this part of their vineyards and that should be on any Bordeaux wine lover’s list.
You’ll notice a high number of special bottlings in Lalande in general (not all tasted here) because the terroir in these two communes is far more varied than in Pomerol and therefore benefits from being isolated and treated differently during the year in the vineyard and in the cellar. The châteaux that produce high-end cuvées include Fleur de Boüard, Tournefeuille, Garraud, Belles-Graves, Chambrun, Haut-Chaigneau, Haut-Goujon, Domaine de Viaud and others (La Chenade could be seen as a special bottling of Les Cruzelles, although Durantou might disagree). Belles-Graves’ Cuvée X was the standout wine in this tasting and is located right next door to Tournefeuille. As the name suggests, Belles-Graves has some of the deepest gravels – and steepest slopes – of Lalande-de-Pomerol, and benefits from that same extremely high-quality stretch of terroir. You can taste it in the glass.
Looking at the result of this horizontal, what strikes me is how consistent the wines are. It’s relatively ‘easy’ to find high scoring wines among classified estates in 2015, but it’s rare to have so many wines that are easy to recommend when you step outside of the big-name appellations.
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It must be at least partly because Lalande takes consistency extremely seriously. In 2008, the appellation created its own inspection agency in charge of overseeing its winemaking charters, and they claim it to be the strictest in France. Every wine, for example, must undergo a quality control that is both on wine analysis in a laboratory and a tasting before they are given the right to use the label (most appellations do this control after bottling but before the wine goes on sale, with a few controlling after the wine has gone into circulation). In Lalande, as soon as a winemaker wants to put his wine on sale, he must first submit to a vat sample and blind taste tests – all of which helps Lalande compete as the appellation offering the best value for money in Bordeaux.
See Jane Anson’s 31 Lalande-de-Pomerol wine tasting notes and scores
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Château La Croix des Moines, L'Ambroisie, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>This is an extremely enjoyable wine with a lovely sweetness to the fruit. Blackberry and bramble fruits combine with some gentle spice alongside tannins that...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château La Croix des MoinesLalande-de-Pomerol
Château La Croix Bellevue, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

There’s not quite the depth of flavour here that the L'Ambroisie had, with touches of caramel through the mid-palate, against liquorice and black cherry fruit....
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château La Croix BellevueLalande-de-Pomerol
Château La Croix des Moines, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>This is an enjoyable wine with a pretty deep expression of blackberry and bilberry fruit which is nicely balanced – ripe without being too much...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château La Croix des MoinesLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Garraud, L'Ancien, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is a special bottling from Château Garraud, something that you see more and more regularly in Lalande-de-Pomerol. They do a good job here of...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château GarraudLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Garraud, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>This is a little more rustic than their special bottling - less polished but with more freshness and floral aromatics running through it. There is...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château GarraudLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Belles-Graves, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is an excellent wine I strongly recommend trying. It has real depth of expression combining deep layers of black brambly fruits with complex touches...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château Belles-GravesLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Bertineau Saint-Vincent, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>This has confident, sweet fruit and well-finessed tannins that are fully ripe and very much in the gourmet expression of the vintage. Bottled at Le...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château Bertineau Saint-VincentLalande-de-Pomerol
Château de Chambrun, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>This is a Pomerol pretender as many of the best Lalandes are with polished coffee beans and chocolate to round out the berry fruits. There’s...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château de ChambrunLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Moncets, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is enjoyable – the same owner at Chambrun - this is less polished, even a touch rustic at first, but it settles in the...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château MoncetsLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Chatain, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

The Cabernet comes through pretty strongly here with blackberry and black cherry dark fruits alongside traces of fresh mint – all of which are well...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château ChatainLalande-de-Pomerol
Enclos de Viaud, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This has gorgeous brambly fruit on the nose which straight off feels like a well-made and polished wine. The heat is a little apparent though...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Enclos de ViaudLalande-de-Pomerol
Château La Fleur de Boüard, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>This is excellent quality and among the best of the line-up. There is an impressive balance of flavours combining brambly fruits with gentle smoked almonds...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château La Fleur de BoüardLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Fougeailles, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>There is a slight reductive quality on the first nose, and this is a little underpowered, although there is soft black cherry fruit with redcurrant...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château FougeaillesLalande-de-Pomerol
Château du Grand Bossuet, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is unfussy with good quality fruit – an enjoyable wine from owner Sebastien Petit that is well balanced, easy to drink and ready to...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château du Grand BossuetLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Grand Ormeau, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>This is good quality with tight dark fruits, cassis and bilberry, layered with chocolate but the oak holds back from being overly sweet or toasted,...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château Grand OrmeauLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Haut-Chaigneau, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This majors on dark fruits and is well balanced, juicy, easy to drink and very much ready to go at four years old. It’s measured...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château Haut-ChaigneauLalande-de-Pomerol
Château La Sergue, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

Owner Pascal Chatonnet refers to this cuvée as his ‘trilogy’ of grape varieties from the oldest vines on the estate and it really does stand...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château La SergueLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Les Hauts-Conseillants, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is good quality with plenty to enjoy here. There’s a touch of reduction, giving a whiff of wheel-spin smoke which takes a minute to...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château Les Hauts-ConseillantsLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Laborde, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is a little rustic – it has a gentle charm with a lovely juicy finish, and the red cherry fruits of a classic Lalande....
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château LabordeLalande-de-Pomerol
Domaine des Sabines, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>Floral aromatics on the nose here, this is a quality wine with clear polish and a kick of sexy oak use without going overboard. It...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Domaine des SabinesLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Samion, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

Jeff Berrouet makes the wine at this property, and it is one of the best in the line-up. There’s a clear depth to the expression...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château SamionLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Siaurac, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>With 46ha of clay gravels, Château Siaurac is one of biggest properties in Néac, owned by Artemis Estates. There’s no question that this is one...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château SiauracLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Tournefeuille, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

From a great location in Néac, just over the border from Pomerol near to La Fleur Petrus. It has tight but rippling tannins and feels...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château TournefeuilleLalande-de-Pomerol
Clos des Tuileries, Bouquet des Tuileries, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>This starts well with clear body and depth on the attack but is a little disappointing in the length. It doesn't quite carry through as...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Clos des TuileriesLalande-de-Pomerol
Clos des Tuileries, L'Intuition, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is an enticing cuvée that is really enjoyable. It’s packed full of blueberries and is an easy one to recommend. There’s great freshness without...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Clos des TuileriesLalande-de-Pomerol
Château de Viaud, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is one to savour, packed full of black cherry and dark chocolate alongside hints of truffle and clear peppery spice. It’s very well rounded...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château de ViaudLalande-de-Pomerol
Château des Cerfs, Grande Reserve, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>This is packed full of well-worked, dark black fruits which show good quality alongside clear spice. You can tell this is from a warm vintage...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château des CerfsLalande-de-Pomerol
Château la Croix Saint-Jean, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

The Tapon family makes wine from just 1.4ha of vines in Néac on powerful gravel over clay soils. They have teased out a fresh and...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château la Croix Saint-JeanLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Vieux Chevrol, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is very good and unfussy with dark fruits that are rich and well balanced and not trying too hard. This feels enjoyable and relaxed...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château Vieux ChevrolLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Vieux Rivière, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This has juicy, sweet black fruit, not hugely complex but certainly accessible and enjoyable. A clove edges suggests barrel ageing which is perhaps a little...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château Vieux RivièreLalande-de-Pomerol
Château Belles-Graves, Cuvée X, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

This is clearly a more serious and impressive wine than most in the line-up, packed with liquorice and black chocolate but also hazelnut, Nutella, black...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château Belles-GravesLalande-de-Pomerol
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
