Langhe Nebbiolo: 20 wines to seek out

Nebbiolo is the classic ‘less-is-more’ style of wine. It’s perhaps no coincidence that today – when this is a style that’s very much in vogue – demand for young Nebbiolo has increased significantly, according to Piedmont’s Consorzio di Tutela Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, Langhe & Dogliani.

Focusing on Piedmont’s main DOC Nebbiolo categories, consorzio figures reported in January 2024 show that annual production of Nebbiolo d’Alba has increased by more than a million bottles since 2016 (to 5.64m bottles in 2022).

Over the same period, production of Langhe DOC wines (within which, it must be noted, there is primarily – but not only – Nebbiolo) grew from 15.4m to 19.5m bottles a year. By comparison, Barbera and Dolcetto volumes have declined, while DOCG Barolo (14.5m) and Barbaresco (5m) have increased more modestly, by about 500,000 and 200,000 bottles a year respectively.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s top 20 Nebbiolo wines from Langhe DOC

Intricately Italian

The legislative classification is intricate: typically Italian! The two denominations of Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC and Langhe DOC Nebbiolo have differences in origin, ampelographic characteristics and ageing requirements.

Nebbiolo d’Alba comes from a specific delimited area lying outside both the Barolo and Barbaresco DOCG regions; it must consist of 100% Nebbiolo and age for at least 12 months.

By contrast, the area from which Langhe Nebbiolo can be sourced encompasses the wider Langhe and Roero region – an enormous extension of 96 communes, ranging from Cortemilia (famed more for its hazelnuts than its wine) up to Vigna Rionda, which is one of the best cru sites of Serralunga. Langhe DOC Nebbiolo must be at least 85% Nebbiolo and has no minimum ageing limits.

On paper, therefore, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC ought to be superior and priced higher. However, in truth, it’s often the opposite, since Langhe DOC Nebbiolo can be a by-product of Barolo and Barbaresco – or come from the same vineyards, perhaps from the younger vines. In this regard, they can almost behave as ‘second wines’.

To further complicate the scenario, there are endless production interpretations: vinified in stainless steel tank and quickly released, or aged in large, neutral botti, French oak barrique, concrete, or even in amphora.

Favourable quality-to-price ratio

One of the most esteemed MGAs (menzione geografica aggiuntiva: equivalent to a ‘climat’ in France) from which Langhe Nebbiolos can be sourced is Valmaggiore. Located in the Roero (DOCG) commune of Vezza d’Alba, Luciano Sandrone, Bruno Giacosa and Mario Marengo produce examples that have become cult favourites.

One of the most expensive wines comes from the young vines of Vigna Rionda in Serralunga d’Alba (within Barolo DOCG): the Ester Canale Nebbiolo by Giovanni Rosso. Another gem, perhaps less known but equally deserving, is produced by Monchiero, from vines in Treiso (not of sufficient quantity to justify Barbaresco production) and from the north side of Monprivato hill in Castiglione Falletto.

These are fragrant, fresh, refined and complex wines, with the best examples showcasing elegance even in their tannins. In comparison with Barolo and Barbaresco, Langhe Nebbiolo may have less depth, concentration and ageing potential, yet climate change has made this grape increasingly elegant and approachable in its youth, thanks to lower acidity and riper tannins.

Indeed, top Piedmont producers such as Angelo Gaja and Giacomo Conterno (Aldo Conterno) often emphasise the higher consistency of recent vintages compared to those of the 1970s.

The result is that Nebbiolo has become more enjoyable to drink when young. So good, in fact, that several 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo wines compare favourably with some non-MGA Barolos from 2018.

‘Langhe Nebbiolo is somewhat outperforming classic Barolo, [which is] mostly being requested by the big monopoly tenders, high-volume retail or duty-free markets,’ says producer Luca Monchiero.

Ranked beneath classic Barolo and its top MGAs it may be, but the undeniable fact is that Langhe Nebbiolo offers Nebbiolo fans an outstanding quality-to-price ratio. Less is more, indeed!

See notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s top 20 Nebbiolo wines from Langhe DOC

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