Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba: These 25 bottles prove it’s not all about Barolo
More than simply ‘baby Barolo’, the Nebbiolos of these two DOCs are typically made in more accessible – but no less delicious – styles. Michaela Morris rounds up her 25 must-try wines from the latest batch of releases, spanning the 2022 and 2023 vintages.
For all the attention lavished on Barolo and Barbaresco, the noble Nebbiolo grape gets very little of its own airtime. What is Nebbiolo when it isn’t either of these?
In the greater Langhe area – which also includes Roero – the answer is two confusingly overlapping denominations of Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba.
Michaela’s pick of the 2022 and 2023 Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba below
For Nebbiolo lovers, they offer a treasure trove of diverse expressions that are typically less expensive and more immediately drinkable.
Given less stringent ageing requirements, these Nebbiolos are typically released sooner than producers’ DOCG bottlings of the same vintage.
As such, current releases hail from 2022 and 2023. Despite being marked by drought and heat, both years managed to yield wines with remarkable freshness and vibrancy.
A passing resemblance
Vintages aside, style is greatly impacted by estate philosophy. Most winemakers are adamant that they aren’t trying to produce a ‘baby Barolo’.
Nevertheless, some do bear a greater resemblance to DOCG wines than others – particularly those made from declassified Barolo or Barbaresco grapes and with longer ageing in wood.
Of these, Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Rinaldi’s savoury 2022s are worth seeking out. They also represent greater accessibility – both in terms of drinking and price – within the context of their respective ranges. Gian Luca Colombo’s Meretto is another must-try if you can find it.
Departing from this traditional approach, Lalù favours maturation in a combination of cement and wood to reduce the impact of the latter. The 2023 impresses for its brightness of fruit and sophisticated texture.
Equally joyful, Cascina Penna Currado’s 100% whole-berry fermented Bricco Lago spends just a few months in large cask.
Others examples see no wood at all. As Valter Fissore at Elvio Cogno states: ‘It is supposed to be a friendly wine for drinking chilled in the summer.’
He purchased a vineyard outside the DOCG zone specifically for Langhe Nebbiolo and the 2023 Montegrilli is a deliciously fruity and crisp Nebbiolo. Azelia’s 2022 is a little bit richer but still in the same vein, and both boast excellent value.
One of my favourite examples of ‘naked’ Nebbiolo is Rivetto’s amphora-aged Vigna Lirano.
A special mention must be made of the Roero region, where predominantly sandy soil lends itself to a lighter, more elegant rendering of Nebbiolo. Mauro Molino’s 2023 is a lovely value-driven version.
Ratcheting it up a few notches, Bruno Giacosa and Sandrone’s bottlings from the Valmaggiore cru were two of my top picks of the entire report.
Michaela’s 25 top Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba to try:
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Bruno Giacosa, Vigna Valmaggiore, Nebbiolo d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
A must-buy, the 2022 is gorgeous, defying the heat and drought of the vintage with its incredible freshness. Essence of rose, raspberry and peach soar...
2022
Bruno GiacosaNebbiolo d'Alba
Bartolo Mascarello, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
Made from purchased fruit from the township of San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, this could easily be mistaken for a Barbaresco in 2022. Despite being midweight,...
2022
Bartolo MascarelloLanghe
Gian Luca Colombo, Meretto Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
A one-off selection in 2022, Meretto is crafted from a plot of 70-plus-year-old vines in Verduno near the revered Monvigliero MGA. It emerges with striking...
2022
Gian Luca ColomboLanghe
Rivetto, Vigna Lirano, Nebbiolo d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
Vibrantly intense and vividly pure, this must-try pick gushes with crushed raspberry, candied violet and fragrant wild herbs. It feels as light as a feather...
2022
RivettoNebbiolo d'Alba
Sandrone, Valmaggiore, Nebbiolo d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
Made since 1994, Valmaggiore is a gem in Sandrone’s portfolio and one that should not be overlooked in 2022. Harvested between 15-23 September, the steep,...
2022
SandroneNebbiolo d'Alba
Aldo Conterno, Il Favot Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
Limpid and pretty aromas highlight red currant and strawberry with earthy brushwood and a touch of vanilla. The palate is creamy, with Nebbiolo’s sandy-grained tannins...
2022
Aldo ConternoLanghe
Cascina Penna Currado, Bricco Lago Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
A must-try, the nose bursts with violet, candied raspberry and sweet spice. Pure and crunchy, it fills the mouth with tart and tangy red berries....
2023
Cascina Penna CurradoLanghe
Elvio Cogno, Montegrilli Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
Valter Fissore is definitely not trying to make a ‘Barolino’ (little Barolo) and this 2023 is must-buy value. Lively scents of spicy raspberry, orange blossom...
2023
Elvio CognoLanghe
Giuseppe Rinaldi, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
Clean with intriguing earthy scents of heather, iris root and sage, the palate brings in tangy forest berries. Tannins weave into the fruit with chalky...
2022
Giuseppe RinaldiLanghe
Lalù, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
The 2023 allies the freshness and drinkability of contemporary Langhe Nebbiolo with a heightened level of sophistication. It also exhibits surprising delicacy for such a...
2023
LalùLanghe
Carlo Revello, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
This is punchy and bright, with strawberry, sage and tarragon notes. Fresh rather than candied, the palate highlights Nebbiolo’s pretty floral disposition. It's light, crunchy...
2023
Carlo RevelloLanghe
Azelia, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
Must-buy value. There is extra richness and concentration in the 2022 but no over-ripeness. Fleshy cherry and raspberry are infused with violet and swaddled in...
2022
AzeliaLanghe
Elio Grasso, Gavarini Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
Not to take anything away from Elio Grasso’s Barolos, but I took a particular shine to this year’s Gavarini release, a must-buy value pick. It...
2023
Elio GrassoLanghe
Figli Luigi Oddero, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
This must-buy value pick is a lovely, amaro-esque example of Langhe Nebbiolo which manages to express both place and grape in an easy-to-drink package. Delicate...
2022
Figli Luigi OdderoLanghe
Francesco Versio, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
Among the Langhe’s up-and-comers, Francesco Versio makes this Langhe Nebbiolo from 10- to 12-year-old vines in the Starderi and Currà MGAs. The recently bottled 2023...
2023
Francesco VersioLanghe
Paolo Scavino, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
Fragrant and primary, the nose of this must-buy value pick offers raspberry, mint and rose. Silky in texture and light on its feet with a...
2023
Paolo ScavinoLanghe
Produttori del Barbaresco, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
The 2023 leaps from the glass with clove, pepper and nutmeg. While not as dense as some vintages, it is a vibrant and boisterous mid-weight...
2023
Produttori del BarbarescoLanghe
Domenico Clerico, Capisme-e Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
Launched in 2009 after brain cancer affected Domenico Clerico’s speech, Capisme-e means ‘understand me’. Unoaked and affordably priced, it was geared to introducing the younger...
2023
Domenico ClericoLanghe
GB Burlotto, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
Fabio Alessandria seeks fruit expression rather than complexity for GB Burlotto's Langhe Nebbiolo. A bit timid to start, the nose reveals dusty sage and hints...
2023
GB BurlottoLanghe
Mauro Molino, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
The Molino family crafts its Langhe Nebbiolo from estate holdings in the Guarene township of Roero. In 2023, they lost 30% of production to hail....
2023
Mauro MolinoLanghe
Piero Busso, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
One of Langhe’s rising stars, Pierguido Busso ages his Barbaresco like a Barolo, so the 2022s are still far from release. However, he takes an...
2023
Piero BussoLanghe
Sottimano, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
As Andrea Sottimano declassified and sold all his Barbaresco lots in 2022, this is the only Nebbiolo we will see from the estate this vintage....
2022
SottimanoLanghe
Vietti, Perbacco Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
Perbacco is Vietti’s gateway into its Nebbiolo wines, and includes lots from some of Barolo’s top MGAs that don’t make it into the estate’s classic...
2022
ViettiLanghe
Bruno Rocca, Fralù Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2022
A contraction of Bruno’s children’s names – Francesco and Luisa – Fralù appropriately hails from younger vines. With a cool east to northeast exposure, they...
2022
Bruno RoccaLanghe
Elio Altare, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2023
Made since 2006, when a brutal hailstorm forced the family to declassify some of their Barolo fruit, this Langhe Nebbiolo sees just three days on...
2023
Elio AltareLanghe
