The Chardonnays from the five key appellations in this underrated Burgundy region offer some of France’s most exciting and great-value wines. Read our report on 139 wines tasted by our three-strong expert panel, with an introduction by Andy Howard MW...
139 wines tasted with 3 rated Outstanding
The panel tasters were: Stephen Brook, Emma Dawson MW and Mark Wilkin MS
The Maconnais wine region, centred around the provincial town of Mâcon, is arguably one of the most exciting and dynamic areas of Burgundy. The wines have a distinctly southern accent – an interesting contrast to the more classically structured (and much more expensive) wines of the Côte d’Or.
Chardonnay is dominant (80% of all wines), with a warmer, more generous character than the wines of Chablis.
Bordered to the east and west by the valleys of the rivers Saône and Grosne, the Mâconnais wine-growing area sits on complex subsoils formed about 200 million years ago.
To the north, closer to the town of Tournus, the landscape is formed of wooded hills and small valleys with many different aspects creating distinct terroir characters. Further south, large stone outcrops start to dominate, the most famous being the Rock of Solutré which dominates the vineyards of Pouilly-Fuissé.
Based on 2016 figures, the total area under vine exceeds 5,600ha of white wine, with 70% of production under the Mâcon, Mâcon-Villages and Mâcon named village appellations.
The latter is an excellent source for well-made, highly affordable white Burgundy; however, it is the neighbouring AC’s of Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Loché, St-Veran and Viré-Clessé which provide some of France’s most exciting (and well-priced) whites – worthy alternatives to the Côte d’Or’s other more famous Chardonnays.
The five key appellations
Pouilly-Fuissé has led the way for years, but a fresher style is emerging. In the past, many wines were weighed down by excessive new oak and were popular in the US market at that time.
Now, the watchword is restraint and wines increasingly use oak to emphasise – rather than dominate – the complex terroir. These modern styles are more aligned with current market tastes and offer great value when compared to other white Burgundies.
Neighbouring Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché also merit attention, the former exhibiting real focus and minerality. St-Véran is also significant in size and, despite lying next to some of Pouilly-Fuissé’s top sites, has a reputation for wines that are just a small step up from the named Mâcon villages. This does St-Véran a disservice as it also is a source of increasingly exciting options.
All of these ACs are in the process of applying for a premier cru designation which, if approved, would cover more than 400ha of vineyards.
Viré-Clessé lives up to its quality elevation in 1999 with a style that offers richness, complexity and finesse. With some top producers here, it is well worth exploring.
The scores
139 wines tasted
Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2016 white wines (two per producer) from St-Véran, Viré-Clessé, Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 3
Highly Recommended 46
Recommended 80
Commended 7
Fair 3
Poor 0
Faulty 0
The results
Finding value in Burgundy is harder than ever, but this tasting confirms Mâcon as a great source, with Pouilly-Fuissé still the leading area. Christelle Guibert reports
Maconnais may be seen as one of Burgundy’s more humble sub-regions, but with stock shortages and prices creeping up across Chablis and the Côte d’Or, our trio of experts urged savvy consumers to take a closer look.
Emma Dawson MW said ‘Burgundy is big challenge for Marks & Spencer, and we’ve been trying harder and harder to keep hold of a decent range under £20, so wines from the Mâconnais are becoming increasingly interesting because they definitely offer that.’
Stephen Brook recalled that ‘a few decades ago, the Mâconnais used to be a sea of dullness. There were some good wines and good producers, but you really had to seek them out. That’s changed, and the average quality is now much higher.’ This tasting certainly demonstrated that, with our experts rating 93% of the wines Recommended or more.
Matt Wilkins MS was pleasantly surprised by the quality. ‘You’re guaranteed a certain amount of freshness with Mâcon, but the top wines here had an added dimension of energy and vibrancy.’ But as with the rest of Burgundy, these wines will sell out fast, so if fresh whites are what you are looking for, then Wilkins advised ‘getting in early before it’s too late’.
He added: ‘With premium Burgundy as rare as hen’s teeth, restaurants are going to jump on the Mâconnais, particularly when some producers in Chablis have lost as much as 80% of their crop, or even more.’
Alas, also like the rest of Burgundy, prices have crept up. Brook confessed: ‘You used to think of Mâconnais whites as a bargain, but I don’t think that’s really true any more. When you think about the kind of Chardonnay you can get from South Africa or Australia for £20 or £25, Mâcon’s producers have to be careful. With all the problems of small crops and wine shortages, prices have become slightly inflated. This is understandable, but at the same time the domaines still have to find a market and a few of them seem to be slightly pushing it.’
Dawson agreed: ‘Customers still remember when they could get a Côte d’Or white for £30 to £50. If Mâcon wines are now commanding similar prices, they need to show that level of ambition and quality. From what I tasted, many are reaching that level, especially the wines from Viré-Clessé and Pouilly-Fuissé.’
As expected, Pouilly-Fuissé shone. Wilkins felt ‘it was one area where you saw the diversity between classic, traditional and modern’. Brook concurred: ‘What I look for in Pouilly-Fuissé is more exotic – almost tropical fruit such as mango or touches of pineapple – as well as wines of some structure and grip with a medium-term ageing ability. Some of the top wines here were really classy – they had power, density, complexity and showed the potential of the appellation. But you can’t assume that everything that comes out of a fashionable area is going to be good. You’ve got to pick and choose.’
Viré-Clessé also had the thumbs up from our judges for delivering pure and fresh wines at excellent value. However, St-Véran failed to impress, the wines deemed simple and lacking dimension.
Across all the appellations, Dawson felt the unoaked or lightly oaked examples were the most enjoyable, showcasing their pure fruit characters. ‘They don’t need to try to mimic the Côte d’Or,’ she said. ‘They should find their own style and focus on that.’
Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines from the tasting:
Stephen Brook
Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996. He is the author of almost 40 books, including The Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recent book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion.
Domaine Ferret, Clos des Prouges, Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
A fine estate bought in 2008 by Jadot. From just 2ha, this is one of a number of single-vineyard wines, and is aged in one-third new oak. Classic Pouilly-Fuissé: structured, richly fruity and powerful. 95 Drink 2019-2023
Gilles Morat, Sur la Roche, Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
Morat is a rising star, and Sur la Roche is consistently fine. This is mineral, structured and seductive, and has great cellaring potential. A dazzling successor to 2014. 95 Drink 2018-2023
Bret Brothers, Climat La Verchère, Viré-Clessé 2016
The négociant label of La Soufrandière, a consistently impressive biodynamic domaine. This cuvée shows how fine Viré-Clessé can be. Great potential. 92 Drink 2018-2022
Emma Dawson MW
Dawson is a wine buyer for supermarket Marks & Spencer, with Burgundy one of her many specialist regions. She studied wine while working in film and media and then moved into the wine industry working for Sainsbury’s. In 2018 she and her partner launched 52grapes.com, a free online project that challenges consumers to taste 52 grapes over 52 weeks.
Domaine Trouillet, Coeur de Pouilly, Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
The vibrancy and tension made this stand out with a mineral finesse you’d expect from the Côte D’Or paired with the richer fruit of the Mâconnais. 95 Drink 2018-2021
Bret Brothers, Climat La Verchère, Viré-Clessé 2016
Seriously enticing wine. Ripe creamy apricots and white peaches, well-judged cinnamon and coconut oak and a zesty tingle to the fine structure. 93 Drink 2018-2022
Rijckaert, Les Vercherres,Viré-Clessé 2016
I first met winemaker Florent Rouve in Jura and from there discovered his Mâconnais wines. They represent excellent value for money with more flavour than most Viré-Clessé wines. 93 Drink 2019-2022
Mark Wilkin MS
Wilkin is an awarded Master Sommelier who has worked in wine for 30 years, including at London’s Michelin two-starred Capital Hotel Group. He now jointly owns wine company H2Vin, which specialises in the Loire, Burgundy, Rhône, Spain and South Africa. He also teaches and examines for the Court of Master Sommeliers and judges at international wine competitions.
Gilles Morat, Sur la Roche, Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
Grown on shallow soils of Vergisson’s southeast slopes. Tactile, ripe, savoury, nutty and smoky with great energy, this conveys fine saline persistence. 96 Drink 2018-2023
Domaine Ferret, Clos des Prouges, Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
Audrey Braccini delivers power and grace from this 2ha amphitheatre surrounding Fuissé itself. Forward blood orange, vanilla and oatmeal on a punchy palate, that is structured and and energetic with great focus and restraint. 95 Drink 2019-2023
Domaine Trouillet, Coeur de Pouilly, Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
From the best plots at the heart of Pouilly. Marie-Agnès and son William deliver an impressive wine that is ready to enjoy. Bright, zesty upfront stone fruits, refined Macocedar, nuts and floral notes with great structure and length. 95 Drink 2018-2021
Mâconnais whites: the facts
Mâcon-Villages 1,985ha / 133,052hl
Mâcon named villages 1,548ha / 97,911hl
Pouilly-Fuissé 263 producers, 759ha / 35,671hl
St-Véran 201 producers, 730ha / 36,275hl
Viré-Clessé 56 producers, 432ha / 26,840hl
Pouilly-Vinzelles 32 producers, 54ha / 2,745hl
Pouilly-Loché 14 producers, 32ha / 1,761hl
Mâcon: know your vintages
2016 Volumes cut by frost, hail and mildew, yet a potentially terrible vintage was saved by a warm and dry second-half. Lower alcohol than 2015, fine acidity and finesse. Keep.
2015 Healthy, ripe and round vintage but with acidity to balance. Concentration and power in the best wines will encourage further ageing. Drink or keep.
2014 A great white vintage with cooler weather promoting high acidity but also great purity and wonderful restraint. Keep the best cuvées; otherwise drink.
2013 Another cool season with firm acidity when young. This has softened and the wines are drinking well now.
2012 Some hail but a long growing season with fine late weather led to a very good vintage. Drinking well.
2011 Underrated, as between 2010 and 2012. Yields higher than in subsequent years. Drink up if you have any left.
Top rated wines from the panel tasting:
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