Matt Walls: My top 10 Rhône wines of 2020
Our Rhône correspondent, Matt Walls, reveals the best 10 bottles from the region he's opened this year – including wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côte-Rôtie, Château-Grillet and St-Joseph.
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
You are now subscribed
Your newsletter sign-up was successful
All these bottles sitting in our cellars and wine fridges, what do we save them for? Well, 2020 revealed the answer to that.
Like many of us, I’ve delved deep into my stash this year to bring some rays of sunshine to those gloomier spells.
Scroll down for Matt Walls’ top 10 Rhône wines of 2020
I spent the first half of the year in France, researching and writing my forthcoming book on the Rhône. Before and after each lockdown period I still managed to visit plenty of producers, and some outlying regions that were new to me, such as the Diois. This was the last remaining piece of the puzzle in fact – I can finally say I’ve visited all 52 appellations of the Rhône Valley.
It’s difficult to know where to start when compiling a list of my favourite wines of the year. What’s surprising is that it’s not always the ‘best’ wines – or at least the highest-scoring ones – that spring to mind first of all when I think back over the past 12 months.
Special bottles
When we write a tasting note, it describes an encounter with a wine – or, more accurately, one particular bottle of that wine. It’s a record of how it appears at that moment. But what we can’t do is predict how that wine will resonate with us over time, how strongly it will make its mark on us, on our memory.
Usually this impact is caused by what’s in the glass, how it smelt, tasted, felt, lingered. But there are other reasons why a wine can take on a greater significance.
A wine can give you hope; it can confirm the renaissance of a once-great property, or display the skills of an exciting new talent. It can evoke the memory of a past winemaker – a more faithful image than any photograph. It can remind of you of the place in which you drank it, the atmosphere, the company, the view, the laughs.
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
Sometimes a wine can shock, it can open your mind, it can reframe or redefine a whole region in your mental map. Other times it can just satisfy deeply and provide comfort.
The wines that make the strongest mark aren’t just those that ‘taste’ special. They are those that make us ‘feel’ something special. The following wines did both of these things for me this year.
I’ve chosen wines that are ready to drink, some from the Northern Rhône, some from the South, mostly reds but a few whites as well. I can’t guarantee they’ll resonate in the same way for you as they have for me, but I’m confident that, at the very least, Rhône lovers will find them utterly delicious.
See Matt Walls’ top 10 Rhône wines of 2020
See also: Best Champagnes tasted in 2020
Coming soon
Matthew Luczy: My top 10 fine wines of 2020 – Wednesday 16th December
Jane Anson: My top 10 fine wines of 2020 – Thursday 17th December
Michaela Morris: My top 10 fine wines of 2020 – Friday 18th December
Château de Beaucastel, Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2001

Only now is the wine becoming clear. And only now is it really open - a fireworks show, with great spark and smoke on the...
2001
RhôneFrance
Château de BeaucastelChâteauneuf-du-Pape
M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010

Sometimes the setting in which you taste a wine helps to fix it in your mind. I tasted this at the Chapel of Saint Christopher...
2010
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierHermitage
Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 1997

Tasted with Jean-Louis Chave in his cellars in Mauves. This vintage included a proportion of botrytised grapes, a growing rarity these days on Hermitage due...
1997
RhôneFrance
Domaine JL ChaveHermitage
Domaine Jamet, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2001

Nearly 20-years-old now, but still remarkably darkly coloured. It has an incredible smoky, spicy nose, firework smoke and smoked duck - a gathering of every...
2001
RhôneFrance
Domaine JametCôte-Rôtie
Château-Grillet, Château-Grillet, Rhône, France, 2014

A very floral style with hints of lime and some petrichor notes. The sensation of acidity is good, it feels decidedly focused then leads to...
2014
RhôneFrance
Château-GrilletChâteau-Grillet
Mounir & Rotem Saoma, Arioso, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2015

Raspberry, redcurrant, a touch of charcoal smokiness, pine needles. Full-bodied, but fresh and cooling, acidity is remarkably high for the vintage, and it's intensely saline...
2015
RhôneFrance
Mounir & Rotem SaomaChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Henri Bonneau, Réserve des Célestins, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 1990

It's fully mature now, and starting to dry out just a little, but still has good colour and some fresh fruit on the palate. Mostly...
1990
RhôneFrance
Henri BonneauChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Le Vieux Donjon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2004

It is great to be reminded just how well some white Châteauneuf can age, and how complex and food friendly it becomes. This is starting...
2004
RhôneFrance
Le Vieux DonjonChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Gramenon, L'Emouvante, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2016

95
Old-vine Syrah from Montbrison-sur-Lez in the northern reaches of the Southern Rhône, yields of 25 hl/ha. Hugely complex, unmistakably Southern Rhône Syrah but with a Northern bent. Candied violets, blackberry pâte de fruits, blueberries and extinguished cigar smokiness. Fresh, with some enjoyably textural tannins, well balanced, highly drinkable and has a cooling menthol edge. What a wine!
2016
RhôneFrance
Domaine GramenonCôtes du Rhône
Martine & Christian Rouchier, La Chave, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2015

A 2.5ha estate in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols using whole bunches and old barrels. A light-bodied, fresh and clearly-depicted Saint-Joseph - blood and iron. A little plum flesh...
2015
RhôneFrance
Martine & Christian RouchierSt-Joseph

Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.